Two different stories
#1
Two different stories
I have one dealership telling me that brakes typically go bad at 100k miles and that at 57k they may need pads for $100 per set. Another guy said a full brake job is needed and would be $1000.
2009 Suburban 58k miles
any advice?
2009 Suburban 58k miles
any advice?
#2
CF Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: New Jersey
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Maybe the difference is doing just pads and doing pads with rotors or more. You need them to be specific. Slapping on a set of pads is cheap. Anything more than that, the price goes up quickly.
#3
Super Moderator
There's lots of people out there, that think that when there is Brake work needed, you got to spend an arm and a leg for it. Actually, that's a rare case that everything would need repair at the same time.
Rotors don't need to be perfect to get your ride stopped safely, unless they are seriously warped. The important things is, keeping the metal of the Pads from contacting the Rotors.
You can DIY a new set of Pads on your ride yourself, and while you have the wheel off, do a quick spin on the Rotor. If you can't see some major wobble or deep cuts in them, then Pads will do nicely, and not compromise your safety.
IMHO...
I don't use very expensive Pads, but, I keep an eye on their thickness, and change (before) they start getting thin. I don't use the Metal Impregnated type, because they take a toll on the thickness of the Rotor. Most of the "special" pads do. I don't deny that there may be "severe" conditions that require special applications. Wish I could give you some set mileage about this, but driving conditions vary so much, it's literally impossible.
A regular visual inspecton is the best way, and don't be hesitant about putting just a new set of Pads in if there's any question.
Rotors don't need to be perfect to get your ride stopped safely, unless they are seriously warped. The important things is, keeping the metal of the Pads from contacting the Rotors.
You can DIY a new set of Pads on your ride yourself, and while you have the wheel off, do a quick spin on the Rotor. If you can't see some major wobble or deep cuts in them, then Pads will do nicely, and not compromise your safety.
IMHO...
I don't use very expensive Pads, but, I keep an eye on their thickness, and change (before) they start getting thin. I don't use the Metal Impregnated type, because they take a toll on the thickness of the Rotor. Most of the "special" pads do. I don't deny that there may be "severe" conditions that require special applications. Wish I could give you some set mileage about this, but driving conditions vary so much, it's literally impossible.
A regular visual inspecton is the best way, and don't be hesitant about putting just a new set of Pads in if there's any question.
Last edited by SWHouston; May 21st, 2013 at 11:51 AM.
#4
Administrator
They may also be quoting in a brake system bleeding, though not always needed its also not a bad idea after about 4yrs... could also maybe include replacing the front caliper hoses.. also not always needed, but could be in some cases...
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dave f.
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August 20th, 2010 3:09 PM