2000 tracker 2.0l remove coil timing wire plug
August 8th, 2013, 4:54 PM
#1
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
2000 tracker 2.0L remove coil timing wire plug
I AM CHANGING THE SPARK PLUGS ON MY 2000 CHEV TRACKER 2.0L.
TELL ME HOW THE GRAY TIMING WIRE PLUG COMES OFF THE BLACK COIL.<O
IS THERE A RELEASE TO PUSH, THEY SHOULD PULL STRAIGHT OFF, MINE WILL NOT COME OFF.
<OTHE SHOP MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW ANYTHING SPECIAL TO REMOVE THEM.
<O<OI AM GOING TO USE THE NGK PFR5J11 SPARK PLUG GAP .044
<OTHE SHOP MANUAL SHOWS THE NGK R5 PLUGS GAP .039 - .043
I THINK IT IS IMPORTANT TO STAY WITH THE R5 HEAT RANGE.
TELL ME HOW THE GRAY TIMING WIRE PLUG COMES OFF THE BLACK COIL.<O
IS THERE A RELEASE TO PUSH, THEY SHOULD PULL STRAIGHT OFF, MINE WILL NOT COME OFF.<O
THE SHOP MANUAL DOES NOT SHOW ANYTHING SPECIAL TO REMOVE THEM.<O
<OI AM GOING TO USE THE NGK PFR5J11 SPARK PLUG GAP .044<O
THE SHOP MANUAL SHOWS THE NGK R5 PLUGS GAP .039 - .043I THINK IT IS IMPORTANT TO STAY WITH THE R5 HEAT RANGE.
Last edited by CACTUS24; August 28th, 2013 at 9:32 AM.
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Nicsmom (December 10th, 2020)
August 9th, 2013, 7:17 AM
#2
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
I ordered a new timing wire harness, want to take a good look at the gray plugs. I will put it on later. The owners manual says they should be replaced every 5 years.
I have one response on ‘you tube’, they say to push down on the plug top rear tab to release it.
I am going to want a few days until the new timing wire harness arrives, parts are getting hard to get, cannot break anything.
I have one response on ‘you tube’, they say to push down on the plug top rear tab to release it.
I am going to want a few days until the new timing wire harness arrives, parts are getting hard to get, cannot break anything.
Last edited by CACTUS24; August 29th, 2013 at 4:19 PM.
August 23rd, 2013, 8:58 PM
#3
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Spark plug coils & crank shaft sensor plugs
I ORDER 4 NEW COILS AND THE CRANK SHAFT SENSOR HARNESS WITH THE 4 TIMING WIRE PLUGS.
I AM GOING TO KEEP THE TRACKER FOR SOME TIME, IT IS INTERESTING TO FIX-UP, GUESS IT IS O.K. TO SPEND LITTLE MORE MONEY ON IT.
IT HAS 85,000 MILES ON IT WITH THE ORIGINAL SPARK PLUGS, IT IS IDLING ROUGH, FUN TO SEE WHAT THE SPARK PLUGS LOOK LIKE.
THE NEW COILS CAME THIS WEEK, ON THE <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
</st1:PlaceName>TOP <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">CENTER </st1:PlaceType>BACK THERE IS A SMALL MALE DETENT THAT THE TIMING WIRE PLUGS SNAP OVER.
IT LOOKS LIKE THE TIMING WIRE HARNESS PLUGS COME OFF THE COIL BY PUSHING A SMALL SCREW DRIVER BLADE DOWN THE T<st1:PlaceName w:st="on">OP</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">CENTER </st1:PlaceType>OF THE COIL AND UNDER THE GRAY PLUG TO LIFT IT OVER THE MALE DETENT.
I WOULD NOT PUSH ON THE REAR TAB AS SUGGESTED BY A PERSON.
I AM NOT GOING TO DO ANYTHING UNTIL THE TIMING WIRE HARNESS GETS HERE.
I WILL PUBLISH SOME PICTURES WHEN I AM FINISHED.
I AM GOING TO KEEP THE TRACKER FOR SOME TIME, IT IS INTERESTING TO FIX-UP, GUESS IT IS O.K. TO SPEND LITTLE MORE MONEY ON IT.
IT HAS 85,000 MILES ON IT WITH THE ORIGINAL SPARK PLUGS, IT IS IDLING ROUGH, FUN TO SEE WHAT THE SPARK PLUGS LOOK LIKE.
THE NEW COILS CAME THIS WEEK, ON THE <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
IT LOOKS LIKE THE TIMING WIRE HARNESS PLUGS COME OFF THE COIL BY PUSHING A SMALL SCREW DRIVER BLADE DOWN THE T<st1:PlaceName w:st="on">OP</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">CENTER </st1:PlaceType>OF THE COIL AND UNDER THE GRAY PLUG TO LIFT IT OVER THE MALE DETENT.
I WOULD NOT PUSH ON THE REAR TAB AS SUGGESTED BY A PERSON.
I AM NOT GOING TO DO ANYTHING UNTIL THE TIMING WIRE HARNESS GETS HERE.
I WILL PUBLISH SOME PICTURES WHEN I AM FINISHED.
Last edited by CACTUS24; August 24th, 2013 at 2:56 PM.
August 25th, 2013, 1:59 PM
#4
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Spark plug change in progress (1 OF 2)
I MADE GOOD PROGRESS ON CHANGING THE SPARK PLUGS. THE 4 SPARK PLUG TIMING WIRES PLUGS CAME OFF O.K. <OPUSH A SMALL SCREW DRIVER BLADE DOWN THE <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:PlaceName>TOP <st1:PlaceType w:st="on">CENTER</st1:PlaceType></ST1 OF THE COIL AND UNDER THE GRAY PLUG TO LIFT IT OVER THE MALE DETENT. KEEP THE SCREW DRIVER THERE, IT WILL KEEP THE LATCH OPEN, THEN <OUSE YOUR FORE FINGER AND THUMB ON BOTH HANDS TO MOVE THE PLUG SLIGHTLY <OIN/OUT, IT WILL COME OFF IN 2-3 TRIES, NOTHING IS DAMAGED, THEN COVER UP THE <OPLUGS WITH A PLASTIC SNACK BAG TO KEEP <OTHEM CLEAN. <OTHE COIL HOLD BOLTS 8MM WERE ONLY FINGER TIGHT. <OTHE COILS PULLED OUT EASILY. <OI STOPPED AT THIS POINT, I HAVE TO GET <OA 3/8” DRIVE EXTENSION KIT, WOBBLE AND <OUNIV JOINT TO REMOVE THE F2 PLUG, THE <OOVERHEAD SUSPENSION CROSS MEMBER <OIS SLIGHT IN THE WAY. I WILL CHANGE ALL 4 PLUGS AT ONE TIME.
<OCLEAN THE COIL RUBBER BOOTS OFF WITH WD-40, IT DOES A NICE JOB.
<OI WONDER IF YOU CAN GET NEW SPARK PLUG WELL TUBES, I WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE THEM SOMETIME, THEY SOME CORRISION INSIDE. THE F1,F2 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS SOME OIL IN THEM, I WILL GET MOST OF IT OUT WITH SHOP RAG STRIPS BEFORE REMOVING THE PLUG. THE F3 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS ONLY ENGINE DIRT IN IT. THE F4 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS SOME RED DIRT DUST IN IT.
PUSH A SMALL SCREW DRIVER BLADE DOWN THE <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com OF THE COIL AND UNDER THE GRAY PLUG TO LIFT IT OVER THE MALE DETENT. KEEP THE SCREW DRIVER THERE, IT WILL KEEP THE LATCH OPEN, THEN <OUSE YOUR FORE FINGER AND THUMB ON BOTH HANDS TO MOVE THE PLUG SLIGHTLY <OIN/OUT, IT WILL COME OFF IN 2-3 TRIES, NOTHING IS DAMAGED, THEN COVER UP THE <OPLUGS WITH A PLASTIC SNACK BAG TO KEEP <OTHEM CLEAN. <OTHE COIL HOLD BOLTS 8MM WERE ONLY FINGER TIGHT. <OTHE COILS PULLED OUT EASILY. <OI STOPPED AT THIS POINT, I HAVE TO GET <OA 3/8” DRIVE EXTENSION KIT, WOBBLE AND <OUNIV JOINT TO REMOVE THE F2 PLUG, THE <OOVERHEAD SUSPENSION CROSS MEMBER <OIS SLIGHT IN THE WAY. I WILL CHANGE ALL 4 PLUGS AT ONE TIME.<O
CLEAN THE COIL RUBBER BOOTS OFF WITH WD-40, IT DOES A NICE JOB.<O
I WONDER IF YOU CAN GET NEW SPARK PLUG WELL TUBES, I WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE THEM SOMETIME, THEY SOME CORRISION INSIDE. THE F1,F2 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS SOME OIL IN THEM, I WILL GET MOST OF IT OUT WITH SHOP RAG STRIPS BEFORE REMOVING THE PLUG. THE F3 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS ONLY ENGINE DIRT IN IT. THE F4 SPARK PLUG WELL HAS SOME RED DIRT DUST IN IT.
Last edited by CACTUS24; August 29th, 2013 at 4:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Nicsmom (December 10th, 2020)
August 29th, 2013, 4:15 PM
#5
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Spark plug change in progress (2 OF 2)
I can continue now, a nice 4 pack of NGK PFR5J11 plugs came this morning and
I got a 3/8” drive extension kit, wobble and univ joint to remove the f2 plug.
The f1, f2 spark plug well had some oil at the bottom, the f3, f4 had less
oil at the bottom. I cleaned it out by using a small round wooden dow to push shop
rag strips to the bottom of the plug well. Also, i could dip the spark plug
socket into the plug well and wipe it off several times.
I used wd-40 on a rag to clean up the valve cover spark plug area, it looks better now.
The NGK PFR5J11 and it’s good crush washer’s will be an excellent plug for the tracker, the original NGK IFR5G plugs with 85,000 miles were removed, they had heavy gray deposits on them, the center electrode round edges were eroded away, they were oil and moisture soaked.
The snap-on spark plug socket has an inside removable rubber boot, it is good for vertical spark plug applications where the plug must be removed and installed in a spark plug hole.
I will refer to (boot-in, boot-out).
THE F2 SPARK PLUG WAS REMOVED WITH THE 3/8 DRIVE WOBBLE AND DIFFERENT EXTENSION LENGTHS, IT WORKED VERY WELL.
I loosened the plugs with a ½ drive ratchet with a 3/8 drive adapter (boot-out). All of the plugs loosened the same, it seemed like about 14 lbs torque, it was total happiness.
I then did one plug at a time to minimize contamination from any oil and other stuff that was at the bottom of the plug hole.
Then remove plug with 3/8 drive ratchet (boot-in), the plugs lifted out of the hole.
I put ATF on the new plug threads, it works very well. Now, just hang the new plug in the spark plug socket boot, lower it into the plug hole and hand tighten, remove the spark plug socket.
If you had pushed the new plug to hard into the spark plug socket boot, the spark plug socket will stay in the hole when you pull the 3/8 drive ext out, in that case, put the 3/8 drive back in, unscrew the spark plug, lift it out, and try again.
Now, just tighten the plug slightly (boot-out) with the 3/8 drive ratchet.
The final spark plug torque is now done (boot-out), I used 11 lbs on the torque wrench, it seemed just right. I have read in gm shop manual that 12 lbs torque on a spark plug is enough, higher torque setting can damage the spark plug. I would not use the 19 lbs torque that is in the tracker shop manual.
Now, insert the 4 spark plug coils back into the plug wells. I had cleaned the boots with wd-40, they look nice, i put them back into the same holes they were removed from.
The coil hold down bolts are now screwed back on, only finger tight. The f2, f3, f4 coil have the timing wire harness hold down clips.
The timing wire plugs are now place on the coil plugs, then push the plugs tight, the coil latches will go click, click, click, click. It was victory…
That’s it, going to do engine test run in a few days.
I got a 3/8” drive extension kit, wobble and univ joint to remove the f2 plug.
The f1, f2 spark plug well had some oil at the bottom, the f3, f4 had less
oil at the bottom. I cleaned it out by using a small round wooden dow to push shop
rag strips to the bottom of the plug well. Also, i could dip the spark plug
socket into the plug well and wipe it off several times.
I used wd-40 on a rag to clean up the valve cover spark plug area, it looks better now.
The NGK PFR5J11 and it’s good crush washer’s will be an excellent plug for the tracker, the original NGK IFR5G plugs with 85,000 miles were removed, they had heavy gray deposits on them, the center electrode round edges were eroded away, they were oil and moisture soaked.
The snap-on spark plug socket has an inside removable rubber boot, it is good for vertical spark plug applications where the plug must be removed and installed in a spark plug hole.
I will refer to (boot-in, boot-out).
THE F2 SPARK PLUG WAS REMOVED WITH THE 3/8 DRIVE WOBBLE AND DIFFERENT EXTENSION LENGTHS, IT WORKED VERY WELL.
I loosened the plugs with a ½ drive ratchet with a 3/8 drive adapter (boot-out). All of the plugs loosened the same, it seemed like about 14 lbs torque, it was total happiness.
I then did one plug at a time to minimize contamination from any oil and other stuff that was at the bottom of the plug hole.
Then remove plug with 3/8 drive ratchet (boot-in), the plugs lifted out of the hole.
I put ATF on the new plug threads, it works very well. Now, just hang the new plug in the spark plug socket boot, lower it into the plug hole and hand tighten, remove the spark plug socket.
If you had pushed the new plug to hard into the spark plug socket boot, the spark plug socket will stay in the hole when you pull the 3/8 drive ext out, in that case, put the 3/8 drive back in, unscrew the spark plug, lift it out, and try again.
Now, just tighten the plug slightly (boot-out) with the 3/8 drive ratchet.
The final spark plug torque is now done (boot-out), I used 11 lbs on the torque wrench, it seemed just right. I have read in gm shop manual that 12 lbs torque on a spark plug is enough, higher torque setting can damage the spark plug. I would not use the 19 lbs torque that is in the tracker shop manual.
Now, insert the 4 spark plug coils back into the plug wells. I had cleaned the boots with wd-40, they look nice, i put them back into the same holes they were removed from.
The coil hold down bolts are now screwed back on, only finger tight. The f2, f3, f4 coil have the timing wire harness hold down clips.
The timing wire plugs are now place on the coil plugs, then push the plugs tight, the coil latches will go click, click, click, click. It was victory…
That’s it, going to do engine test run in a few days.
Last edited by CACTUS24; September 2nd, 2013 at 5:29 PM.
August 31st, 2013, 10:22 PM
#6
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Engine test run with new spark plugs
The battery was charged 100% with the schumacher sc-1200a 12/8/2 amp charger with a micro processor, it works great, connect the battery.
Put chevron techron fuel system cleaner in the gas tank.
It was an excellent engine test run today.
The tracker started right up, it now showed off it's powerful engine, it idled like a new engine.
During the coke warm-up period, it no longer make those exhaust smells.
Put about 5 miles on it, ran like new.
The 2.0 l engine always has a slight power vibration to it.
I would recommend the NGK PFR5J11 plugs, they also have a good crush washer.
It is just a fun car to drive, the seats are very comfortable, a nice view over the hood.
Have another year to work on it, new antenna, front/rear brakes, change power steering fluid.
Be getting cold again in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
Pennsylvania.</st1:State>
Put chevron techron fuel system cleaner in the gas tank.
It was an excellent engine test run today.
The tracker started right up, it now showed off it's powerful engine, it idled like a new engine.
During the coke warm-up period, it no longer make those exhaust smells.
Put about 5 miles on it, ran like new.
The 2.0 l engine always has a slight power vibration to it.
I would recommend the NGK PFR5J11 plugs, they also have a good crush washer.
It is just a fun car to drive, the seats are very comfortable, a nice view over the hood.
Have another year to work on it, new antenna, front/rear brakes, change power steering fluid.
Be getting cold again in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
Last edited by CACTUS24; September 3rd, 2013 at 2:28 PM.
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