niceguy88

Hey guys, I'm still waiting on the CD manual to come in and need to change the front brakes this week as they're starting to screech while driving.

First, does anyone know what size Torx bit the rotors need for removal?

Also, this is my first ABS vehicle so what's best for compressing the front calipers-Can you simply use a C Clamp, do you have to crack the bleeders?

I guess I'm going to try to find a shop manual on ebay for a decent price since not having a paper manual is driving me nuts...

Thanks!

Jeremy

Papa Bear

Have a knowledgeable buddy come and help you with the first brake job.
Might cost you a few beers but save a lot of grief in the long run.

A quick Google brought this site 2006 2007 2008 2009 Chevrolet Uplander Service Manual - YouTube

riotz

You can use a c-clamp to compress the calipers, you don't need to open the bleeder.

I can't remember the size of the torx bit on the screw, I *think* it's a T30 possibly a T35

However, you'll probably have to drill the stupid thing off anyhow. The head of the screw will probably be rusted to the rotor, once you drill the head off and remove the rotor, you'll be able to unscrew the threaded part out of the hub with your fingers most likely. You don't really need to replace the screw either, I never bothered.

niceguy88

Thanks for the info guys, yeah after doing some quick research it seems that even experienced (and paid lol) mechanics saw no need to open the bleeders having never experienced any ill effects, though in theory it would be safer no doubt.

With my non ABS Altima, I always simply opened the master cylinder reservoir and compressed the piston using a small board without overflowing the MC.

However, with a line running from the bleeder into a cup of fluid, you really shouldn't have any air issues anyway, provided you open the bleeder while compressing and then tightening/closing the bleeder once compressed.

Jeremy

niceguy88

Just an update, I went ahead and bought some O'Reilly rotors and pads and installed everything last night. Pretty straightforward and no Torx to deal with (though I found a set of T sockets in a tool drawer lol) since the old rotors didn't have them.

I used a piece of scrap 1x6 to compress the MC piston like I usually do making sure the MC didn't overflow and bolted everything back up after cleaning. No more noise finally!

In other words, a run of the mill front brake job though you'll need the special screw type compressor on the rear discs...

Jeremy

chrisadams

Put new pads all the way around, new drilled rotors on the front, turned the rears.
Rears were in worse shape than front, just before hitting the squealers.
Original brakes front and back at 27,500 miles on my 2007 cargo van.
Watch the rears, as they seem more wear prone than the fronts.
I put Carbon on the front, semi-metallic on the rear.
It do stop good...