Uplander 2005-2009
This sport-van offers a sporty feel and roomy interior, all in the body of a minivan.
Platform: U-Body

Uplander rear valve cover gaskets

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Old March 8th, 2021, 8:30 PM
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Default Uplander rear valve cover gaskets

Trying to help a neighbor with his 2008 Uplander valve cover gaskets. Watched several videos related to it, so I know I have to remove the dog bones in the front and use a ratchet strap to crank the motor forward to reach the rear plugs and rear valve cover gaskets. Pretty straightforward with the plugs. What I need to know is whether or not I need to remove the alternator and power steering pump to access the rear valve cover. That's what at least one of the techs did for the rear plugs on an Impala with the 3.5L engine, which is close to the 3.9L engine, but he didn't crank the engine forward in the Impala.

Anyone know? Is it necessary to pull the alternator and power steering pump?
Old April 3rd, 2021, 8:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles Shell
Trying to help a neighbor with his 2008 Uplander valve cover gaskets. Watched several videos related to it, so I know I have to remove the dog bones in the front and use a ratchet strap to crank the motor forward to reach the rear plugs and rear valve cover gaskets. Pretty straightforward with the plugs. What I need to know is whether or not I need to remove the alternator and power steering pump to access the rear valve cover. That's what at least one of the techs did for the rear plugs on an Impala with the 3.5L engine, which is close to the 3.9L engine, but he didn't crank the engine forward in the Impala.

Anyone know? Is it necessary to pull the alternator and power steering pump?
what did you end up doing?
Old April 3rd, 2021, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 12three
what did you end up doing?
Got convinced by my gearhead friend to avoid changing the valve covers. It was enough of a nightmare just to change the plugs and wires. I changed his oil and put in Lucas's Stop Leak. Another friend of his is swapping out the front valve covers and has snapped off one of the bolts (eye roll).

Oh, and while working on the plugs, the heater core hose broke and we had to swap it out.

Such a fun vehicle. Can't wait to see what happens next.
Old April 3rd, 2021, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles Shell
Got convinced by my gearhead friend to avoid changing the valve covers. It was enough of a nightmare just to change the plugs and wires. I changed his oil and put in Lucas's Stop Leak. Another friend of his is swapping out the front valve covers and has snapped off one of the bolts (eye roll).

Oh, and while working on the plugs, the heater core hose broke and we had to swap it out.

Such a fun vehicle. Can't wait to see what happens next.
right on.
I have not found a single plug wire on an uplander that came out without breaking. i pull em on every junkyard uplander/montana/etc i see. ive even broke very new looking wires... so i would say if you do plugs/wires hit the gasket while youre at it bc most ive seen looked leaky.

below is courtesy of alldata... i dont think they rolled the motor forward. i know i did my alt without rolling it forward. the windshield wiper mechanism is under there too, popping those wiper things loose might help on a roll forward...

1. Remove the generator.
2. Drain the cooling system, Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System (Static Fill LZ9) Draining and Filling Cooling System (Vac-N-Fill).
3. Remove the coolant crossover pipe.
4. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) fresh air tube from the air cleaner outlet duct.
5. Remove the PCV fresh air tube from the right side valve rocker arm cover.
6. Disconnect the engine harness electrical connector (1) from the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
7. Disconnect the engine harness electrical connector (2) from the ignition coil.
8. Remove the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector clip from the ignition coil bracket
9. Remove the spark plug wires from the ignition coil.
10. Remove the ignition coil bracket bolts (1) and nuts (2).
11. Remove the ignition coil with bracket (3) from the engine.
12. Remove the valve rocker arm cover bolts.

Important: When removing the valve rocker arm cover, ensure the gasket stays in place attached to the cylinder head.

13. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Bump the end of the cover with the palm of your hand or a soft rubber mallet if the cover adheres to the cylinder head.
14. Cut the room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) sealer in the channel where the intake, cylinder head and valve rocker arm cover meet with a suitable tool.
15. Remove the valve cover gasket.
16. Clean the sealing surface on the cylinder head with degreaser.
Installation Procedure
1. Install a NEW valve rocker arm cover gasket into the groove in the valve rocker arm cover. Ensure that the gasket is properly seated in the groove of the valve rocker arm cover.
2. Apply sealant at the cylinder head to the surfaces where the cylinder head and intake manifold meet (1).
3. Install the right valve rocker arm cover.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.

Important: Use an alternating criss-cross pattern when tightening the valve rocker cover bolts. Failure to do so may result in oil leakage from the valve cover due to improper seating of the gasket.

4. Install the valve rocker arm cover bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
5. Install the ignition coil with bracket (3) to the engine.
6. Install the ignition coil bracket bolts (1) and nuts (2).

Tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).

7. Install the spark plug wires to the ignition coil.
8. Install the HO2S electrical connector clip to the ignition coil bracket.
9. Connect the engine harness electrical connector (2) to the ignition coil.
10. Connect the engine harness electrical connector (1) to the MAP sensor.
11. Install the coolant crossover pipe.
12. Fill the coolant.
13. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the right side valve rocker arm cover.
14. Connect the PCV fresh air tube to the air cleaner outlet duct.
15. Install the generator.
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