mediaman67

BTW - yes, there is a vacuum line on this engines FPR - thanks

mab6680

anybody ever figure this out im having the same problem

mediaman67

I ended up just backing off the idle screw, and that seems to have fixed the problem - at least now it cold idles at about 1100, but stays there, and when warm, runs at about 600 rpm... doesn't seem to stall, but in the winter time, if it does, I'll just slowly bring that screw back just enough that it wouldn't stall.

not sure if this fixed the problem, but no more CEL at all... one thing though - it will stay at 1100 rpm if you don't pull away, etc - so, I'm sure it's not 100% right, but like I said, it's better than it was... - I can live with it as it is now at least.

Now of course, she wants the AC fixed - bad leak in the condenser somewhere... got a new one - anyone ever replaced a condenser in this car? - I have it converted to R134a... there is a tranny cooler on it too... anyways...

heisabud

Yes I agree,

Check the MASS Air Flow Sensor,EGR,MAP. Sometime the easyest thing is often overlooked,,Check for VACOUM leaks. As a vacoum leaks will cuase a engine to run rich.

BLADE

my 3.1 idled high it was a 95 i dont know if that matters but it had a stepper moter for idle control check it for continuty check ok. next throttle position sensor could not back probe this one very well but would unplug and idle would return to normal. got the new one and found that the TPS has a return spring inside that breaks maybe this will help someone most of these componets can be checked with multimeter.