I need some brainstorming please?
#21
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Update:
we changed the spark plugs today. They were original. Too tight. And, not gapped correctly. No, one, spark plug was the same as the other. Discovered a small oil leak (just had that changed two months ago-it's dirty already??? and down about a half quart of oil)
After all that work, we discovered by accident it MAY very well be something else altogether. Which explains a lot!
Someone suggested disconnecting the oxygen sensor to see if there was a difference in the engine. We did. No difference. Boyfriend is an electrician and I suggested seeing if it had any power going to it. Or power period. It's the only sensor left to replace. Seeing no difference? He traced back to the fuse block in the car. By accident he bumped it. And the car instantly sputtered. Then died.
I just replaced two new relays in July. One is already blown. And we're not getting any readings on some of the fuses or the slots the fuses sit in. Explains why the car sputters and died in a certain area of my house. Low dip. Car is not graceful. Jars the box. Car intermittently dies or sputters and recovers itself.
I'm leaving the timing chain as a last resort fix. Concentrating on engine performance and power right now. Since it's it's main problem. She runs quiet. Just still missing a little.
Ordered the power block off of ebay(exact match-and inexpensive for used-guaranteed return and replacement) We attempted to locate one in the junkyard before but there is no guarantee those would work.
So for now she sits in the driveway and we wait for the new one to come in the mail.
I'm not sure if a code came up but as the guy wrote it on the piece of paper?
P0105
P0300
V1000
we changed the spark plugs today. They were original. Too tight. And, not gapped correctly. No, one, spark plug was the same as the other. Discovered a small oil leak (just had that changed two months ago-it's dirty already??? and down about a half quart of oil)
After all that work, we discovered by accident it MAY very well be something else altogether. Which explains a lot!
Someone suggested disconnecting the oxygen sensor to see if there was a difference in the engine. We did. No difference. Boyfriend is an electrician and I suggested seeing if it had any power going to it. Or power period. It's the only sensor left to replace. Seeing no difference? He traced back to the fuse block in the car. By accident he bumped it. And the car instantly sputtered. Then died.
I just replaced two new relays in July. One is already blown. And we're not getting any readings on some of the fuses or the slots the fuses sit in. Explains why the car sputters and died in a certain area of my house. Low dip. Car is not graceful. Jars the box. Car intermittently dies or sputters and recovers itself.
I'm leaving the timing chain as a last resort fix. Concentrating on engine performance and power right now. Since it's it's main problem. She runs quiet. Just still missing a little.
Ordered the power block off of ebay(exact match-and inexpensive for used-guaranteed return and replacement) We attempted to locate one in the junkyard before but there is no guarantee those would work.
So for now she sits in the driveway and we wait for the new one to come in the mail.
I'm not sure if a code came up but as the guy wrote it on the piece of paper?
P0105
P0300
V1000
Last edited by Cyntthia Johnson; November 26th, 2012 at 4:55 PM.
#22
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we got the new power distribution box today. And, it was like all the others. Had too many wires on it. Identical in looks. But the wiring was all wrong.
BUT the good news is that while the car was apart to replace that fuse block? He discovered a whole lot of bad wiring. Some things not wired right. Or at all. Box itself was loose on the bottom. Not secured. He fixed loose wiring. He bolted down the box. Reconnected stuff. Tightened stuff up.
She went out on her first road test today. Still skips a bit but?
She runs so much quieter. My cooling fan came on for the first time since she broke down 2 weeks ago. She shifts quicker. A lot of pick up and go.
She ran all over today without skipping a beat.
Acts like a brand new car. Uses a little bit of gas but I think it's the float or the gauges just being screwy. Bounces around a bit.
She lives. I'm happy. I think little car is happy too. She is SOOOO quiet I have to hit the gas just to make sure she's still running.
BUT the good news is that while the car was apart to replace that fuse block? He discovered a whole lot of bad wiring. Some things not wired right. Or at all. Box itself was loose on the bottom. Not secured. He fixed loose wiring. He bolted down the box. Reconnected stuff. Tightened stuff up.
She went out on her first road test today. Still skips a bit but?
She runs so much quieter. My cooling fan came on for the first time since she broke down 2 weeks ago. She shifts quicker. A lot of pick up and go.
She ran all over today without skipping a beat.
Acts like a brand new car. Uses a little bit of gas but I think it's the float or the gauges just being screwy. Bounces around a bit.
She lives. I'm happy. I think little car is happy too. She is SOOOO quiet I have to hit the gas just to make sure she's still running.
#23
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I scanned the thread post but did not see if the fuel pressure was verified...
even if she is running better I would still want to know that the pressure is good and stable and does not bleed down too quickly... that will cause hard starting...
even if she is running better I would still want to know that the pressure is good and stable and does not bleed down too quickly... that will cause hard starting...
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I would love to get the fuel pressure tested. Unfortunately I can't afford to go anywhere to get it tested. Unless there is some really inexpensive tester I can buy to test it myself? I haven't really spent too much time in the car driving it since it went back on the road yesterday. It's used primarily to get my son back and forth to work. I'd have to ask him if he noticed a difference in fuel consumption.
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Ryan Brickel
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May 25th, 2012 4:06 PM