hobhancock

I need some help. I hope someone will read and answer this soon. Here is what I am up against. 1995 S-10 2.2L is not running very well. So I started with pulling plug wires while it was running to see where to look. Cylinder #2 when pulled the spark plug wire there was not change in the operation of the truck. As I did this to the other three there was a difference in operation when doing so, so I figured I had it narrowed down to #2. I put new plugs in thinking that was it. I had spark so thought I had it - NOPE. As I looked at the end of the plug it appeared there had not been any combustion. So next I thought, injectors. So I pulled the #1 and #2 injector and swapped places, thinking it was a bad injector it would then render cylinder #1 inoperable. Did that and once again the same #2 still shows no sign of combustion. Ok, then I check compression and it had 100 lbs. So I tore down the plenum again to get to the injectors and pulled 1 and 2 and then put my compression tester hose on and blew compressed air in the cyclinder and it blew fuel out the rail and air out the intake. Boy again I thought maybe it was plugged or something and when that happened I just knew I had. Now the fuel should get in there - NOT. Tonight I need to see if I have a stuck valve.

How can you tell if the cylinder is getting fuel? I tested the injectors for resistance and the meter read 13. The wire connectors read around 13 with key off and 38 with key on, both injectors and plugs registered the same. Now I am assuming #1 cylinder and injector work since when I pulled the plug wire it changeds the operation of the engine.

WHAT AM I MISSING? WHAT ELSE CAN I TRY SHORT OF TEARING THIS THING DOWN TO THE HEAD?

If I pull the intake to check that out will that tell me anything? I should be able to see into the cylinder but that still doesn assure me that I am getting fuel.

Thanks. I love these forums where people are willing to lend the knowledge and help us DIY's out.

steverap

Did you hold the wire with a plug and electrode removed close to the block to see if and how strong the spark is.
Maybe have the ignition module checked at auto zone.
Last I would take the valve cover off and see about the valve by turning the motor by hand or if you have a lot of valve lash.
Dont do extra work. The answer is there. Be patient
Could also be a computer problem.

hobhancock

Thanks for the replay Steve. I did hold the wire close to the block and it sparked as much as the others. I also switch plug wires both at the plug and coil - same result. I did actually pull the valve cover last night and turned the crank and watched as each valve was compressed. As I read through my Haynes I came across the picture of a "Noid light" to check connectors. The way I did it didnt really do the job. I mentioned what I had tried to someone I know and he brought up the noid light right off the bat. He says that is common. I have 185,000 miles on this little truck and these are the original injectors so not really common to me. I have a scan tool the Equus Innova 3100 that should be able to scan the ingition module right? Same type of reader autozone would use. I am being patient. The more I try the more I learn and then its better for me the next time. I have said, "I am not getting rid of this truck because I will know how to fix everything before too long". Alot I do know, with much more ahead. I appreciete all whom are willing to share their knowledge so that I learn and can share somewhere down the road.

I just called Autozone and they have a noid light as part of the loan-a-tool program. I will pick it up and run that one.

hobhancock

Okay, I am now lost - I think. I did the noid light test and everything tested out fine. I asked a neighbor friend about this same issue, and he asked about the compression. The one cylinder that is giving me trouble registered at 100 lbs. He said that is low and it will not allow the cylinder to fire. Is this plausible? I guess I am at the point now it is either a rebuild or to find another engine. Any one have a 2.2 1995 they dont want or know of where a good place to get one?

steverap

If the compression is low, the gas must be getting into the oil past the rings right? smell the dip stick to see if there is gas in the oil or not as thick.
Does it feel like a missfire? unsteady idle? Do a vacume test. should be between 15 and 18 at idle

hobhancock

I dont know if describing it as a misfire is correct or not. The truck will start and run but not good. In first gear it takes off normally, but as soon as you go into second gears is where it jumps and stumbles until it gets to a higher speed then it will go again, but then the repeat again once going into third. The truck is running on three cylinders and I am just short of replacing the engine or doing a rebuild, not sure which way to go. Steve you have given some good direction and as soon as I can I will have the ignition coil pack tested.

hobhancock

Hey Stever, you are dead on. I drove the truck today and when I got to work I remembered to pull the dipstick. Very strong fuel smell. So the ball is rolling now on gathering prices for new rings and bearings and gaskets, all that I need to rebuild this engine. I put a new head on it a few years ago so upon examaning it, will make the decision to either keep it as it is or have a shop go through it. Thanks for your help. I will post again when I finish. I will be good to have the horsepower back again.

steverap

I don't know if you got my e-mail but now that I think about it, the new head with a lot of miles on the truck could cause a lower end failure.How is the compression in the other three cylinders. Are two low that are next to each other? That would be head gasket failure between cylinders. As far as the fuel smell goes, If you don't have a v style engine then I think you can rule out the intake leak. Sorry I'm not to familiar with the 4 cyl.

hobhancock

Steve, didnt get your email only because the one listed here is not incorrect. I have updated to the new one now. The compression is only low in #2 and the others are slightly higher. We have decided to put new rings and bearings in it and have the head done as well. The "new" head has 90,000 miles on it, I found that out after going through all my records. I date everything I do. I am getting alot of fuel in oil which would indicate the rings are bad.