Tahoe & SuburbanThe power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900
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My 99 ˝ ton Chevy 4X4 2 door Tahoe would not start yesterday morning. I drove it the night before to pick up dinner and it ran okay. It was not my daily driver until about 6 months ago when a 16 year old ran into my pickup at an intersection, which of course the insurance company totaled out the 90 pickup with 280,000 miles on it. I need to get busy and get it going again because I hate being without a pickup. Will enough about that. I am currently down to one vehicle and need to get my 99 Tahoe running this weekend, so any help would be appreciated. I am a Do It yourselfer, but I will admit sometimes I probably shouldn’t have.
Info on the 99 ˝ ton 4X4 with a Vortec 5.7:
It only has around 63,000 miles on it, and I have been only owner. It was just used as the third vehicle until about 6 months ago, now it is a daily driver. I changed the distributor cap and rotor about 4 years and about 12,000 miles ago. It has not been abused at all, besides not being used as it was meant to be. I have noticed that the last month or so it sometimes took a little longer to start than normal. It has had a lower Intake Manifold antifreeze leak for quite a few years, not a big leak but enough to leave a little wet spot on the ground after it sets a day. It does set outside now and it did rain about 2 inches here in Texas the day before it would not start. And when driving it to work 2 days ago in the rain I did notice that when I got up to about 50 miles per hour or so, it felt like it cut out or miss fired once or twice. It did this 2 or 3 times, after that I stomped on the gas and it seemed to run okay after that. I went out yesterday morning to start it, I just reached inside to start it without pushing gas pedal at all. When I stopped cranking it sputtered like some cars do when you shut them off and they try to keep running. I have not been able to get it running since. I filled up with gas 3 days before this and it has about a half of a tank of gas now. The fuel pump is really loud and I can hear it running when I turn the key on and stops after a bit like it has built up pressure, (the way it has always worked) .
Last night I checked a few things: I pulled the number 1 plug and connected it to the plug wire, and had my son crank Tahoe over. It seemed to have a great spark, and seemed to fire quite a bit when cranking, so I believe it is firing good, but maybe not when it should be (or maybe not in time). The plug did look wet like it might be flooded. I pulled the distributor cap and it looked ok, maybe a little corroded not bad. After I thought it might be flooded I pulled the fuel pump relay fuse, and cranked it over for a while, did not seem to help any, even after replacing relay fuse. I also tried pouring some gas in throttle body, which did not help.
I know it sound like a fuel issue, but I don’t believe it is the fuel pump. I am going to pick up a pressure tester tonight and check the fuel pressure. I have had to replace the fuel pumps in my 90 Chevy pickup and also on a 2000 Tahoe, both of these had high 100,000 miles on them when replaced. I am going to check the fuel pressure but I just don’t believe it is the pump.
After reading some forums yesterday I was ready to change out the Intake manifold gasket, thinking after the rain we had maybe moisture was causing a problem, but after it still would not start last night after siting all day, I am not sure this is causing the starting issue, but does need fixed, and may replace it also this weekend, but would like to get it started again first.
After changing oil last weekend I did put synthetic oil in it for the first time ever, I never put synthetic oil in any of my other high mileage vehicles, but thought it wouldn’t hurt. I know this is not the issue, but it was something I did in the last week.
Okay, I know this is probably a long one but I wanted to make sure I stated everything I have noticed recently about the way it has run. Is it possible it could be the crank sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated as what to check, before I really tear into it.
Thanks for your help,
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Thanks for the reply Go-Part. I got it started tonight.
When I posted my problem this morning, the Crank Sensor was going to be my first part to replace. But after I posted I read some more forums, and I read a lot of problems with non GM distributor caps and rotors. So when I got home tonight I found my original cap and rotor in the garage, for some reason I never throw old parts away. Tried starting the Tahoe before I did anything, no go. Replaced the cap and rotor and it started right up. With it firing like it was I would not have thought it would have been either the cap or rotor. On the way home I picked up a fuel pressure tester from Auto Zone, and I went ahead and checked the fuel pressure, which was about 52 running and 58 not running with key on. The Bad cap and rotor is only about 4 years and about 12,000 miles old. They were made my Duralast Gold still had the box, and I think has a warranty from Auto Zone, will have to check but not sure I want another one, will probably go back to GM. I found the receipt in the box, I paid $55 for them, wow, would think they would last longer. Hope this helps anyone that comes across this post with a similar issue.
Now in the morning I will have to try and find the torx screwdriver I dropped down the back of the engine which did not make it to the ground.