Please HELP 4L60E 96 Suburban 4x4
June 2nd, 2009, 12:26 AM
#1
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Please HELP 4L60E 96 Suburban 4x4
Please help us.
My husband is trying to repair our listed Sub. It has a 4L60E transmission. Reverse and 3rd gears only work. Lots of junk in trans., but trans. looks to be in good shape. He thought it could have been electrical and bad torque converter, from previous trans. replacement. I have read that there could be a small crack in the weld on the forward drum or there is a possible problem with the manual valve in the valve body working. I have not seen these as I have not been there while my husband has been working.
If you know of this problem or know what could be wrong, please help. He has spent lots of time/money trying to fix it. We don't have much of either(not that anyone does).
Thank You!
My husband is trying to repair our listed Sub. It has a 4L60E transmission. Reverse and 3rd gears only work. Lots of junk in trans., but trans. looks to be in good shape. He thought it could have been electrical and bad torque converter, from previous trans. replacement. I have read that there could be a small crack in the weld on the forward drum or there is a possible problem with the manual valve in the valve body working. I have not seen these as I have not been there while my husband has been working.
If you know of this problem or know what could be wrong, please help. He has spent lots of time/money trying to fix it. We don't have much of either(not that anyone does).
Thank You!
June 2nd, 2009, 4:16 AM
#2
There is little you can do about the transmission yourself really. All I can advise you is to put in a new oil filter and fresh oil (ATF2 is best). Check your manual to see just how much oil it needs.
If this doesnt work, then you'll need to revise your transmission and thats something you wont be able to do yourself.
If this doesnt work, then you'll need to revise your transmission and thats something you wont be able to do yourself.
June 2nd, 2009, 9:13 AM
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New fluid has been done
Thank you.
My husband has replaced the fluid and has removed the transmission. This will be the 2nd time. He has completely taken it apart. The first time he forgot to use air pressure to blow out all of the holes in the transmission. He is now doing this thinking there could be a clog and checking the wiring for a bad connection.
Has anyone experienced anything like this?
My husband has replaced the fluid and has removed the transmission. This will be the 2nd time. He has completely taken it apart. The first time he forgot to use air pressure to blow out all of the holes in the transmission. He is now doing this thinking there could be a clog and checking the wiring for a bad connection.
Has anyone experienced anything like this?
June 2nd, 2009, 9:24 AM
#4
Lady,
if your husband is able to take an automatic transmition apart , cleaning it completely and putting it back together... then there really is little we can tell him to do. Most people wouldnt come near a transmission , especially not an electronically steered one like the 4L60e.
Your husband has golden hands, cherrish him
All I can advise him to do, while tearing the gearbox apart, is to replace all the closing parts (in french we call it joints, but i dont know the english word) and check for any kind of damage or rust.
When he has put the automatic transmission back together and the problem still occurs, then he should use an OBD cable and computer software to check what errors the on board computer gives. The 4L60E is computer steered, so it should tell you exactly what the problem is. An OBD cable costs about 30 dollars (or cheaper on Ebay) and you can download the software for free on the internet.
And to be honest, if you are able to pinpoint me what the weld in the forward drum of a transmission box is, then you are my kind of woman
.
You can check cracks in the weld, pretty much the same way you check a flat tire. Take some water en mix it with detergent and pour it over the well, with the engine running. Where you see little bubbles, there is a crack. But I seriously doubt that you will find any cracks.(use a small mirror to look all the way around the gearbox).
The oil that came from the transmission, should be red and should have absolutely no brownish particle (rust) in it. The oil filter needs to be replaced and you need a (momentum key? euhm...let me grab a dictionary ...) a Torque Wrench so you dont overtighten the (grabs dictionary again) bolts.
if your husband is able to take an automatic transmition apart , cleaning it completely and putting it back together... then there really is little we can tell him to do. Most people wouldnt come near a transmission , especially not an electronically steered one like the 4L60e.
Your husband has golden hands, cherrish him
All I can advise him to do, while tearing the gearbox apart, is to replace all the closing parts (in french we call it joints, but i dont know the english word) and check for any kind of damage or rust.
When he has put the automatic transmission back together and the problem still occurs, then he should use an OBD cable and computer software to check what errors the on board computer gives. The 4L60E is computer steered, so it should tell you exactly what the problem is. An OBD cable costs about 30 dollars (or cheaper on Ebay) and you can download the software for free on the internet.
And to be honest, if you are able to pinpoint me what the weld in the forward drum of a transmission box is, then you are my kind of woman
.You can check cracks in the weld, pretty much the same way you check a flat tire. Take some water en mix it with detergent and pour it over the well, with the engine running. Where you see little bubbles, there is a crack. But I seriously doubt that you will find any cracks.(use a small mirror to look all the way around the gearbox).
The oil that came from the transmission, should be red and should have absolutely no brownish particle (rust) in it. The oil filter needs to be replaced and you need a (momentum key? euhm...let me grab a dictionary ...) a Torque Wrench so you dont overtighten the (grabs dictionary again) bolts.
Last edited by Koffietje; June 2nd, 2009 at 9:33 AM.
June 2nd, 2009, 7:57 PM
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One of the most important tools for auto trans troubleshooting is a pressure gauge. When the trans is in the vehicle and engine running, you need to check line pressure at least, that's the overall pressure of the fluid system. Each trans model has their own specifications and instructions on how to do a pressure check. When you go from P to a drive gear, there should be a specific pressure change in the system. Also there may be more test ports than one, there may be test ports for various parts of the transmission.
I assume your hubby took the servos apart and cleaned the fluid space in there, and inspected the seals? Same for clutch packs?
How about air pressure test for the clutch packs and servos, has he done that while they were apart?
You may be able to air test the governor too.
And finally, if the bands are adjustable, make sure they are adjusted properly and there's enough friction material left. Most of the "junk" in the fluid is usually worn off friction lining material, it turns to mud and collects in places where there's low fluid flow, like servos. To some degree it is normal wear.
Since this appears to be an electrically operated trans, you need to check the solenoids. A repair manual may (or may not) give you model specific instructions.
With the solenoids you generally have two types of problems: They receive power but are broken, or they are fine but aren't getting power (or enough power). A broken solenoid can usually be identified with an ohm meter. (no continuity).
I don't know this model of transmission, but they all share certain parts and designs.
So my comments above are more generic sort
Oh, how do you mean it only engages 3rd gear? Do you mean it only reacts or goes forward if you manually select "3" on the shifter? I don't see how else.. if you can't get 1st or 2nd, you can't get it moving enough to hit 3rd.
Please explain your situation a bit more and the tests you've done and the symptoms.
How did this problem begin? Or did you buy teh vehicle with this condition?
I assume your hubby took the servos apart and cleaned the fluid space in there, and inspected the seals? Same for clutch packs?
How about air pressure test for the clutch packs and servos, has he done that while they were apart?
You may be able to air test the governor too.
And finally, if the bands are adjustable, make sure they are adjusted properly and there's enough friction material left. Most of the "junk" in the fluid is usually worn off friction lining material, it turns to mud and collects in places where there's low fluid flow, like servos. To some degree it is normal wear.
Since this appears to be an electrically operated trans, you need to check the solenoids. A repair manual may (or may not) give you model specific instructions.
With the solenoids you generally have two types of problems: They receive power but are broken, or they are fine but aren't getting power (or enough power). A broken solenoid can usually be identified with an ohm meter. (no continuity).
I don't know this model of transmission, but they all share certain parts and designs.
So my comments above are more generic sort
Oh, how do you mean it only engages 3rd gear? Do you mean it only reacts or goes forward if you manually select "3" on the shifter? I don't see how else.. if you can't get 1st or 2nd, you can't get it moving enough to hit 3rd.
Please explain your situation a bit more and the tests you've done and the symptoms.
How did this problem begin? Or did you buy teh vehicle with this condition?
Last edited by Bugfuel; June 2nd, 2009 at 7:59 PM.
June 5th, 2009, 8:49 AM
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Response on tests
Thank you for your questions and advice. Here is a little more info that may help you to get to know our situation a little better. I appreciate your time and info! Thank you!
One of the most important tools for auto trans troubleshooting is a pressure gauge. When the trans is in the vehicle and engine running, you need to check line pressure at least, that's the overall pressure of the fluid system. Each trans model has their own specifications and instructions on how to do a pressure check. When you go from P to a drive gear, there should be a specific pressure change in the system. Also there may be more test ports than one, there may be test ports for various parts of the transmission.
Still need to do pressure test
I assume your hubby took the servos apart and cleaned the fluid space in there, and inspected the seals? Same for clutch packs?
Done
How about air pressure test for the clutch packs and servos, has he done that while they were apart?
Done
You may be able to air test the governor too.
This trans is controlled by a speed sensor. He does not know of a governor. 3/4 is engaging with computer unplugged. 2/4 band is not engaging and is controlled by solenoids which he has replaced and tested wiring to them. He intends to test the ground/positive that runs to and from the computer
And finally, if the bands are adjustable, make sure they are adjusted properly and there's enough friction material left. Most of the "junk" in the fluid is usually worn off friction lining material, it turns to mud and collects in places where there's low fluid flow, like servos. To some degree it is normal wear.
Since this appears to be an electrically operated trans, you need to check the solenoids. A repair manual may (or may not) give you model specific instructions.
With the solenoids you generally have two types of problems: They receive power but are broken, or they are fine but aren't getting power (or enough power). A broken solenoid can usually be identified with an ohm meter. (no continuity).
I don't know this model of transmission, but they all share certain parts and designs.
So my comments above are more generic sort
Oh, how do you mean it only engages 3rd gear? Do you mean it only reacts or goes forward if you manually select "3" on the shifter? I don't see how else.. if you can't get 1st or 2nd, you can't get it moving enough to hit 3rd.
Please explain your situation a bit more and the tests you've done and the symptoms.
If you unplug the computer from the trans case you can manually get 3rd gear. With computer plugged in goes into 3rd when you get to 3rd gear speed...he figured this out by coasting down a mountain road.
How did this problem begin? Or did you buy teh vehicle with this condition?
The vehicle did not have this problem when we bought it. It appeared to have a bad connection when it happened. He bought new solenoids b/c of this. Then he got into the transmission and it appears to be rebuilt, but old torque converter...trans itself is in great shape. He replaced all electronics except the pressure control solenoid and TCC which he tested.
Still need to do pressure test
I assume your hubby took the servos apart and cleaned the fluid space in there, and inspected the seals? Same for clutch packs?
Done
How about air pressure test for the clutch packs and servos, has he done that while they were apart?
Done
You may be able to air test the governor too.
This trans is controlled by a speed sensor. He does not know of a governor. 3/4 is engaging with computer unplugged. 2/4 band is not engaging and is controlled by solenoids which he has replaced and tested wiring to them. He intends to test the ground/positive that runs to and from the computer
And finally, if the bands are adjustable, make sure they are adjusted properly and there's enough friction material left. Most of the "junk" in the fluid is usually worn off friction lining material, it turns to mud and collects in places where there's low fluid flow, like servos. To some degree it is normal wear.
Since this appears to be an electrically operated trans, you need to check the solenoids. A repair manual may (or may not) give you model specific instructions.
With the solenoids you generally have two types of problems: They receive power but are broken, or they are fine but aren't getting power (or enough power). A broken solenoid can usually be identified with an ohm meter. (no continuity).
I don't know this model of transmission, but they all share certain parts and designs.
So my comments above are more generic sort
Oh, how do you mean it only engages 3rd gear? Do you mean it only reacts or goes forward if you manually select "3" on the shifter? I don't see how else.. if you can't get 1st or 2nd, you can't get it moving enough to hit 3rd.
Please explain your situation a bit more and the tests you've done and the symptoms.
If you unplug the computer from the trans case you can manually get 3rd gear. With computer plugged in goes into 3rd when you get to 3rd gear speed...he figured this out by coasting down a mountain road.
How did this problem begin? Or did you buy teh vehicle with this condition?
The vehicle did not have this problem when we bought it. It appeared to have a bad connection when it happened. He bought new solenoids b/c of this. Then he got into the transmission and it appears to be rebuilt, but old torque converter...trans itself is in great shape. He replaced all electronics except the pressure control solenoid and TCC which he tested.
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June 5th, 2009, 8:51 AM
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July 31st, 2009, 12:34 PM
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This is a wiring or electrical problem. The 4l60e's have a safe or "limp home" mode, which allows the transmission to be driven in the case of an electrical failure. You will only have park, reverse, neutral, and one forward gear, 3rd. When you say the truck only drives in 3rd, i am assuming it starts in 3rd and never shifts right? This is the same as simply uplugging the connecter from the tranny plug. I am sorry he has taken the trans apart twice.
Since he has already changed the wiring harness in the tranny, i would look at the wiring that goes from the computer or fuse block to the tranny. A pink/white or pink/black wire powers the tranny. Check the fuse in the fuse block, and work down from there. Good luck
Since he has already changed the wiring harness in the tranny, i would look at the wiring that goes from the computer or fuse block to the tranny. A pink/white or pink/black wire powers the tranny. Check the fuse in the fuse block, and work down from there. Good luck
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