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You’re welcome. I’d recommend running the engine up to temperature once or twice a week to keep it in working order.
If that’s not possible, here’s a few recommendations to keep the internals in good condition and prevent mechanical problems from lack of use.
1) Change the oil and add Lucas oil stabilizer (or equivalent) to the new oil. IIRC it’s recommended at 20% oil capacity, so you should be OK just replacing one quart of oil with stabilizer. Run the engine up to temperature after the oil change to ensure it circulates through the entire system.
2) Use fogging oil in the cylinders.
3) Make sure the cooling system is full of 50/50 mix.
4) Place dryer sheets, full bars of soap, air fresheners, etc. in miscellaneous places around the engine bay - the smell of these types of products is repellent to mice and other critters as long as it’s a “clean” scent as opposed to a fruit or food based scent.
When running if I tried to plug pcv valve return port into throttle body it would try to stall so I left unplugged. The timing was 6 degrees advanced and when I tried to bring it closer to 0 it would try to stall as well.
Do you mean plugging it with a cap or when attaching the hose from the PCV valve?
The engine needs to be up to temperature and the spark control circuit disconnected (single connector on tan/black wire by firewall) when checking the timing. It also needs to be under a load for a really accurate reading - the easiest way is to chock the wheels and have a helper put it in drive while holding the brake, but this obviously requires a great deal of trust from your helper.
If that’s not possible, I’d recommend leaving it at 6* (as long as it’s a smooth idle) and, with the control circuit disconnected, rev it up to 2500-3000 RPM while listening for pinging (spark knock). If you don’t hear anything, the PCM shouldn’t have any problems compensating for the difference.
Does it stall immediately or does it stumble at first?
What’s the condition of the PCV valve? Is it new or if it’s older/original, could it be stuck open? Just remove it from the valve cover and shake it - if you don’t hear any rattling, the valve is stuck. It can be cleaned or replaced if cleaning doesn’t free up the valve.
If it’s in working order, it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s excessive blowby which could be diluting the air/fuel mixture and causing the stall. For the time being it won’t hurt anything to leave the PCV return hose unhooked, but put a vacuum cap on the TB port. If it still stalls, it’s likely the IAC isn’t adjusting properly - I’ll have to do some digging but I’m pretty sure there’s a procedure for resetting the IAC to a base idle position.
If you can get the engine to run long enough to open the thermostat, try and get compression readings with the engine warm - they’ll give you a much better idea of the condition of each cylinder.
It looks like a ground wire to me but I couldn’t say exactly what components use it. Inspect as much of the wire as you can to make sure it’s in otherwise good condition, repair if needed, then replace the eyelet and clean the contact surface under the bolt before reinstalling it.
I wouldn’t worry too much about the O2 sensor just yet. It’s only purpose is emissions control - without O2 input the ECM remains in open loop mode which just means it calculates the air/fuel mixture based on TPS, ECT and MAP sensor input as opposed to reading O2 data and adjusting based on that.
August 1st, 2021, 8:11 AM
