i have 1995 c1500 4.3 manual 2wd i just got done with changing clutch kit and bolting back the transmission. During disassembly, the slave cylinder push rod popped out for whatever reason. i put the push rod back in and bolted the slave back in the tranny. When i tried depressing the clutch pedal it was stiff as a rock. A new slave cylinder later, the clutch pedal moves, but with no pressure . it just sinks to the floor. i have tried bleeding it, but no results. Also, the push rod is not moving in and out?? any ideas? do i still have to bleed it more?

 

This man's YT video will probably help you out:

 

Thanks for replying

I seen that video prior to installing the release bearing and im 99% sure i installed it correctly.

The problem is, i can remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing and the push rod doesn't move when i pump the pedal.

 

You may have a bad master clutch cylinder, if its not moving. I would try to bleed that out more, if possible. Not hard to replace one on a pickup. Just wait until you have to replace a bad clutch M/C on a car. Man, that ain't easy at all..

Its unfortunate that Chevy didn't go with the slave cylinder mounted on the throw-out bearing, like they did on the 4x4 pickups like my old 98 K-1500..

 

Ok gravity bleeding it did the trick and finally got the rod to engage BUT, the rod popped out again when i was pumping the clutch pedal? This happened while it was out of the transmission. I pushed it back all the way in and let the plastic retainers hold it in place, pump the pedal a couple times and it pops out again and the pedal gets stiff. all of this happened while it was outside the bell housing. Regarding the clutch fork, i can move it back and forth by hand, but It doesn't retract when i push it in, i have to push it back from the peep hole, is it supposed to do that? And how far is it supposed to push in and out? I get about an inch

 

Well it has to disengage the clutch enough be that an inch or more. Ideally you want the clutch pedal with about a quarter of the way down. One trick that keeps the rod in place was to use that very thick wheel bearing grease so you can adjust the clutch mechanism. Back then there was no plastic device.

 

I think my new problem has to do with the pivot stud. Looking back at some photos i took, the stud that actually holds the fork in place is broken


Sucks that i have to pull the tranny again, but I'll change out the fork and triple check the release bearing is on correctly.

I have been searching online for the right pivot stud and get two different parts

RockAuto and other parts store all give me

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...155/22142690-P

But searching the forums i get this part which looks similar
https://www.allstategear.com/GM-C150...ll-p/18740.htm

Could someone point me in the right direction

 

Looks like you would have to have a press in style pivot ball.

Even rockauto shows the screw in style for your truck though, but I don't see how that's possible without a removable bell housing.
I know some 1500's did get the nv4500 in 1995 (I owned one) so maybe that's why the parts numbers are screwed up with some retailers.

 

I found these at CarID.com:

https://www.carid.com/1995-chevy-ck-...ard%20(Manual)

 

Thanks guys, turns out the pivot stud was a pressed in style as mentioned, I had to order a new one from allstar.

I got everything back together and the truck starts and it's still on jack stands for now. The pedal feels firm. It engages into first fine, but it still grinds into reverse.

​​​​​in fact, I think it's worse now. When I shift into reverse, you can feel and hear a grind and you have to force the lever into reverse, then it jerks to engage. It has always had this problem but now it's more pronounced now per say.
I don't want to have to drop the tranny a third time now.
I used to alignment tool to hold the clutch and bolted the pressure plate on. I didn't have to force the transmission in or anything. I'm certain all the air is out of the hydraulic system. Any ideas guys??