HELP! keeps throwing codes
June 23rd, 2020, 7:37 AM
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HELP! keeps throwing codes
I have a 97 k1500 with the 5.7, few weeks ago it thru 2 codes P0340 and p0102, cam shaft sensor and MAF sensor, replaced both and problem still continued, also had new fuel filter and crank shaft sensor put in, fuel pump is only a few months old. Recently it thru another codes of p0441. Evap system, so replaced purge valve and purge valve vacuum switch. Still has codes and still spits and sputters. I usually go to work at 4am and the truck seems to drive fine, but in the afternoon after it’s been sitting in the sun and heat all day is when it starts to spit and sputter at first acceleration, and then “hiccups” around 60-70mph.
June 23rd, 2020, 7:53 PM
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I have a 97 k1500 with the 5.7, few weeks ago it thru 2 codes P0340 and p0102, cam shaft sensor and MAF sensor, replaced both and problem still continued, also had new fuel filter and crank shaft sensor put in, fuel pump is only a few months old. Recently it thru another codes of p0441. Evap system, so replaced purge valve and purge valve vacuum switch. Still has codes and still spits and sputters. I usually go to work at 4am and the truck seems to drive fine, but in the afternoon after it’s been sitting in the sun and heat all day is when it starts to spit and sputter at first acceleration, and then “hiccups” around 60-70mph.
Almost all the components related to the codes you’re getting share a battery feed from the ENG-1 mini fuse (20A) in the underhood fuse block. It’s hot in the start and run positions of the ignition switch. The circuit is distributed from the fuse block on the pink wires at each component.
With the key on, engine off, unplug the components and check for battery voltage with a meter. First check voltage at the battery as a reference, then check it at each component - it should be within +/- 0.3 volts of battery voltage. If it’s much less (0.5 volt or more), the most likely suspect is the factory splice in the harness where the circuit branches off - should be within the first foot of the harness leaving the fuse block. It’s not uncommon for them to corrode and/or weaken with age. They can be cut out and replaced using solder or heat shrink type butt connectors.
Also don’t forget to check voltage at the fuse and the circuit as it’s leaving the fuse block - less than battery voltage here indicates an issue with the ignition switch.
Last edited by Gumby22; June 23rd, 2020 at 7:56 PM.
June 23rd, 2020, 8:36 PM
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Diagnostic codes are like clues in a scavenger hunt - they don’t tell you exactly where the problem is, they just give you a place to start looking.
Almost all the components related to the codes you’re getting share a battery feed from the ENG-1 mini fuse (20A) in the underhood fuse block. It’s hot in the start and run positions of the ignition switch. The circuit is distributed from the fuse block on the pink wires at each component.
With the key on, engine off, unplug the components and check for battery voltage with a meter. First check voltage at the battery as a reference, then check it at each component - it should be within +/- 0.3 volts of battery voltage. If it’s much less (0.5 volt or more), the most likely suspect is the factory splice in the harness where the circuit branches off - should be within the first foot of the harness leaving the fuse block. It’s not uncommon for them to corrode and/or weaken with age. They can be cut out and replaced using solder or heat shrink type butt connectors.
Also don’t forget to check voltage at the fuse and the circuit as it’s leaving the fuse block - less than battery voltage here indicates an issue with the ignition switch.
Almost all the components related to the codes you’re getting share a battery feed from the ENG-1 mini fuse (20A) in the underhood fuse block. It’s hot in the start and run positions of the ignition switch. The circuit is distributed from the fuse block on the pink wires at each component.
With the key on, engine off, unplug the components and check for battery voltage with a meter. First check voltage at the battery as a reference, then check it at each component - it should be within +/- 0.3 volts of battery voltage. If it’s much less (0.5 volt or more), the most likely suspect is the factory splice in the harness where the circuit branches off - should be within the first foot of the harness leaving the fuse block. It’s not uncommon for them to corrode and/or weaken with age. They can be cut out and replaced using solder or heat shrink type butt connectors.
Also don’t forget to check voltage at the fuse and the circuit as it’s leaving the fuse block - less than battery voltage here indicates an issue with the ignition switch.
yes I ended up finding that, fixed wiring and replaced fuse and so far no more codes, only problem now is that when I first start it up, it idles up and acts like it’s going to die, but only does it at first start up.
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