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1988 - 1998 (GMT400) Section for all discussion related to the 1987-1998 Chevrolet and GMC trucks.

leads on 1994 k 1500

Old March 15th, 2019, 6:51 PM
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Default leads on 1994 k 1500

I've done a lot of research trying to fix my issue, but haven't gotten around to fixing them yet due to weather. I'm just looking for some reassurance that I'm headed in the right direction, as well as some additional suggestions.

Ever since it got cold outside, my 1994 K1500 5.7L has been performing sadly.

I haven't had this issue at all when it is warm/above 50 or so.

The truck, when going uphill at about 30mph is fine, and when I press the accelerator, it bogs down from about 2100 rpm and goes lower as you press the accelerator until it downshifts. The lower the temperature outside, the more sensitive the truck is to the issue, experiencing bogging down when I get to about the same 2000 rpm or so at even lower speeds going up hill. I warm the truck up for a long time and as I drive for 30 minutes or so, the problem only gets marginally better. At high speeds of about 60 or 70 going up a small hill will cause it to bog down and buck and only maintain about 50 after that.

I'm going to replace the fuel filter in a week or two, then was looking at cleaning the throttle body and or running some seafoam through it. Guess my main question is what could cause such an issue at temperatures below 30 degrees F, but not be an issue in warmer weather. Any other suggestions or directions to take are greatly appreciated.

Last edited by wbywmu; March 15th, 2019 at 8:27 PM.
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Old March 15th, 2019, 9:36 PM
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Troubleshooting sensors and how to test i would start with testing the CTS the link posted will tell you how to test and what readings youre looking for. good luck
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 1:37 AM
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Its warmer now and I've done a few things, in order:

Ran seafoam to spec, changed fuel filter, ran seafoam to spec, changed oil, replaced PCV valve.

It seems to be running better, but I don't know if its because of the fixes I've made or because of the warmer weather.

The 7 valve is compromised, and I realize that is the root cause, so this will be a cyclical process until I get the opportunity to maybe rebuild the engine.

Next on my list of guesses is the EGR valve or TPS or Oxygen Sensor. Each of which aren't too expensive, but as I climb the expense latter, not too many more affordable guesses are left to be made.

I appreciate any more suggestions.
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 9:23 AM
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well if you click the link i posted right above yours you will see how to test the tps and o2 sensor. a quick way to test the egr is depress it and it should almost if not stall the engine that means the diaphragm is in working order. you could unplug it also and see if your problem goes away. but this will kick a cel
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 9:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Irish_alley View Post
well if you click the link i posted right above yours you will see how to test the tps and o2 sensor. a quick way to test the egr is depress it and it should almost if not stall the engine that means the diaphragm is in working order. you could unplug it also and see if your problem goes away. but this will kick a cel
I appreciate your replies btw. That link does seem to be giving me a sense of direction. This truck was passed down from my father and it is what I use to get around in. That said, I am by no means a car guy and I doubt it would turn into a hobby for me, though I do find it enjoyable. I'm just trying patchwork to help this engine last long enough to where I'd be able to build enough knowledge to take everything apart and rebuild it. So, I don't even know what this tester is called, let alone how much it costs or how relatively few times I'd use it. Maybe you can help me there.

Would it be cheaper to just replace and clean the parts in question, or would I be better off buying this tester and replacing what it says I should? I already have a good idea that everything gets gummed up because it burns oil, so I figure maybe a good route to take for now is to just replace and clean the obvious parts of the cycle that would get gummed up. And sensors do just go bad after long enough, so maybe I should just replace some of the sensors that could be a problem anyway since they're not too expensive.

What does it mean to kick a cel? Sounds like something I'd want to avoid.

I should also mention that there is also a ticking noise that sounds like it is coming from the front passenger side. It doesn't occur when in neutral and revving, but it does happen when in drive. That's part of why I ran the seafoam, but that didn't help that. I somehow think it could be to do with the catalytic converter, but I really have no clue. It just seemed to come up for a lot of people when searching what it could be. Again, any more knowledge sent my way is appreciated! I'm just starting to learn about this stuff, but I do love this truck and want to help it along.

Last edited by wbywmu; April 2nd, 2019 at 9:21 PM.
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 11:02 PM
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"CEL" check engine light.

the tester can be bought at may stores. you might even already have one but theyre called "multimeters" you can buy cheap ones for under 10 or more expensive ones for 60+. you just need one that reads ohms Ω and volts (dc).

you can buy new parts but the overall cost will quickly rise and even new parts can go bad out of the box or within a week. you can youtube how to use a muiltimeter better than i can tell you
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 11:07 PM
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