I didn't know that was a thing. Thank you haha. And I edited the post with the image rather than the link. Is there a more reliable way to find where #1 is?

 

unless you pulled the whole distributor number 1 will be at 5 o'clock pointing at number 1 cylinder. you could also find tdc of #1 piston and see which way the rotor is pointing.

 

Yep looks like I was 1 space off on all of them. I will fix that tomorrow and get back to you guys!

 

Alright sure enough, the image I was using was incorrect. When I had them all in the right order, the thing ran CONSIDERABLY better. Like WAY better. It does still stutter a little and lope at an idle. I did a little further investigating and found that the vacuum lines on the EGR and EVAP dongles were broken. Could it be one of those things causing this issue? Also the breather tubes on the front are leaking oil everywhere. I pulled the line off and the engine runs amazingly better. The idle is high and it pulls a strong vacuum sucking in a lot of unmetered air. but it runs a lot better. Could this also be an issue with it?

Also, I pulled the codes! There are none!

 

Breather lines like pcv valve? But yeah all the lines have to be in working order and the grounds have to be nice and clean

 

Great it’s running better. Nice to make progress. Definitely fix those vacuum hoses. Remove the air cleaner so you can have a really good look around.
And as Irish mentions clean the grounds. Clean the battery terminals & I think there’s a ground to the fender, one between engine block and firewall, and one on the coolant thermostat. That one is the ECM ground, I believe.

I assume you are talking about the pcv hose. It shouldn’t be leaking oil so it probably has a break or bad pcv or ? Figure that out and fix it.

Bottom line is even if it seems to run better with someone off - that’s just showing there is a problem somewhere and something needs attention. Everything should be connected and working for it to run best in all conditions.

 

I have a 90 k1500 my trans blew now I have a friend w a 90 k5 blazer trans says it will work then I'm also seeing that I could have a 4l60 and others say 4l60e will work need help please

 

Welcome Jim; you need to start a new topic in proper section rather than take over this one.

 

Hey guys, sorry it has been so long without an update. Life has been busy and I've been doing more or the cosmetics of the truck. Anyway, between the last update and now I have done quiet a few things. I searched all over for vacuum leaks and haven't found any others than the ones I have mentioned. When I fixed those lines, there was no change. I brought the truck in to the tech school we have here and started doing some diagnostics with a scanner. From what I I can see, there isn't anything wrong with the truck. O2 sensors read that is is very rich (as I can smell), but as for the other sensors they all seem to be within range. The computer said that the TPS sensor was reading .48 at idle and it should be between .50-1.5 volts. This could be an issue, but I'm not sure. I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor because I had heard that was often bad. Didn't seem to make any difference. Today, I cleaned the EGR. It was full of carbon buildup, but of course I forgot to see if the thing stuck open or closed, but I can do that tomorrow. I was running out of time.

The truck still hasn't changed it's running characteristics. Still struggles really hard to idle when cold, runs extremely rich and surges. Scan tool confirms the RPM jumps around a lot between the mid 700s and the high 800s. I guess something I noticed is that is starts to run better once warmed up. Not great, but it doesn't try to die after its been running for about 15-20 minutes. I am very stuck on what to do, this isn't making any sense to me. Do any of you have other recommendations?

 

Hi, sounds like you checked for unplugged lines and checked for codes. Going back to first post - did you clean your grounds? Then I’d check timing and fuel pressure next.