Symtpoms and solution:

* Flasher module always clicking but turn signals work
* Flasher module always making noise (siemens usa 4-T relay)

SYMPTOMS: it is most always clicking

* pressing brakes causes the flasher module to stop clicking
(this is unusual, unrelated, shouldn't happen but does)
* hazard signal switch (red) causes change in clicking or makes strange noise
* turning steering wheel may slow stop or re-continue clicking from module
* turning inside lights on/off may cause module to stop clicking. short?

Solution:

* a bad turn signal can cause all of the above - more specifically the hazard signal button
* see down in hazard red button side, see green copper dust

diagnosis: having symptoms above and google said "replace both module replace turn signal", and i sought to find which.

a) i opened the siemens relay. it was pure and clean 100% good. thought so. jiggled wires to no end (brakes being involved had me thinking maybe short somewhere).

b) i saw green copper so to be sure that was the cause wanted to fix the turn signal in order to insure it was the problem (or not). saw youtube showing only two larger T20 screws need to be removed and lift up. steering wheel does not need to be removed to service the turn signal.

c) easiest is to pre-order one and install HOWEVER, not always. and i firmly doubt non-oem or even oem would match the strange and "difficult" connectors on my year/model. the youtube i saw had some 2006 lucky dude with easy connectors. i was not so lucky ...

the following instructions are for REPAIR not for replacement

basically: slide out the hazard signal after removing screws, clean, remove old grease use thin wipe of new di-electric grease, re-insert hazard light switch. that should work - however you can take it more apart to (see more, clean more).

more details:

on my 2001 the electrical connectors are so difficult to get off i didn't dare. (white connector difficult, but the black connector i requires permanently bending/damaging the old module (the card with the copper circuit/tracings) and i hadn't pre-ordered new signal). i suggest not removing any connectors the white are 1/2 spot-welded on (must be popped with a screw driver) and 2nd black connector doesn't even budge with that while it does bend the copper circuit/ledger card.

I instead opened and repaired the turn signal: here's how...

* begin by disconnecting battery, wait 5 min, for air bag safety. all three printed fuse diagrams in my truck are wrong so i would never "pull the SRS" fuse it'd like being a grenade pin on my truck!

after removing 2 torx (but leave connectors on). take out the 3 hex head screws. you can now more easily slide out the hazard red button and clean inside (do not pull hard. push pull till it comes freely it's a slider but can catch on things). clean the race with a bronze brush. wipe out old di-electric grease and put a thin film of new grease on - not bunched up wipe excess off. if your not confident your brush fits in there well consider taking the "large side module" off. it's not easy but do-able without tools.

the side-module where the turn stick mates ton can infact be lifted out to aid cleaning AVOID DOING SO. just lift it out with care that there are parts under it not to be yanked out when it comes free. When re-assembling it you need to position gears: turn the wiper arm full on (counter clockwise), turn the gears full left (seen as gears are above wiper arm), the plastic thumb is in the middle (this can all be done after getting the box assembled - tilting it back open and using a small screw driver). also to get it back on there's a brass finger on a spring, from the stick, to hold in while inserting it (which goes inside the module not under our outside - and that's why you would want to tilt the module to spin the gears - to avoid fooling with the brass pin again)

there's a copper spring that comes out when you first take out the 3 hex. clean the pad the spring contacts and grease lightly before re-assy, it's goes in the plate the 3 hex heads go through you can't miss it.

RE-CONNECT BATTERY. TEST all buttons/rotations positions BEFORE SCREWING IT TOGTHER OR BACK IN TO THE STEERING COLUMN. bon voyage.

 

you see the copper circuit in the photo - don't bend or damage it or "your done". (washing machines and many other solid things are built similarly - so to old hacks this is all old school)

the red button, that is a long box module that can slide out if the hex screws are out and there is a little gap to allow it to enough to slide out. there are 3 clover spring pads on one side that slide on the copper ciruit pads (the side you can't see the inside), there's no "jack in the box" here.

on the back of the photo is the "module" or plastic box (it has gears that mate with the the stick), as i said may not have to come out but can for better cleaning, by prying carefully and being careful with the spring-button jack-in-the-box isn't damaged while pulling it free (this is an odd thing on the end of the turn signal stick - probably for high beams).

2001 connectors seen here are non-removable (un-announced since they look removable!), on 2006 they are on unit? but 2001 they are on the other end of the wires the side not seen. that side is not visible (yet), wires are taped and zip tied to (stuff), and connects elsewhere under the dash and requires removing yet more panels). you'd have to trace that back but can't see it since a metal shield is in the way and the wires go between it and column.

so that fooled me - usually you don't have a fat wire bundle tied and taped to things that ends up with a plug on the other end "that when untaped and freed is the only removable end and is separable - but far from the other connectors that could be separable but aren't or are but with hazard of breaking to do it". (very wacky!)

front left center you see a brass stub/finger, on it's back is a spring which pushes on / presses on a simple round copper pad trace. when re-assembling it needs to be pushed in so it goes on side of plastic spin wheel (mated on copper trace) not out between the plastic notches (which would stop the steering wheel from spinning)

 

Hello, new here. I have a 2001 Astro Van and have stumbled my way through cleaning up that red switch piece (it came out in my hand!).

I cleaned it up with iso alcohol and slid it back in. The plastic detent finger was broken off, so I wedged it in correct position for turn signals
and wedged it in place with a toothpick. I learned this was a Recall item, back in 2004 or so.

I'm in the middle of replacing this same Turn/Hazard unit on my van, and not all the functions are working.
I've got a GM Factory Service Manual for reference, it's paid for itself many times over.

I should probably start my own thread.