desjardines1999

My fuel gauge currently is not working we have narrowed down the issue to possibly the fuel pump, now the issue im running into is ether is a 1 plug or 2 plug fuel pump, is there any one who knows what one it could be or a way of finding out without having to take off the box or drop the tank as i dont have the space to do either

Here is all the info on my truck i have aviable while im here at work:

Manufacturer CHEVROLET
Model SILVERADO 2500
VIN: 1GCGK29U41Z213895
Fuel type PETROL
Engine capacity [ccm] 6000
Country of manufacturer UNITED STATES
Model year 2001
Version EXT. CAB 4WD Engine 6.0L V8 OHV 16V
Wheelbase [mm] 3645
Tires 245/75R16
Steering type RECIRC
Turning diameter 1229
Overall length [mm] 5781
Overall width [mm] 1994
Overall height [mm] 1890
Drive type 4WD

oilcanhenry

Pickup truck gas tanks are not hard to drop without a hoist or lift. You just need to drain the fuel, pull the straps off (making sure every wire or carbon cannister is out of the way and you have it. Most are plastic not steel so even better, no matter the gallonage it holds. The vehicle has over 175000 miles on it now and its a K2500 4X4, meaning you have lots of room to work. BTW, the fuel pump and the fuel level sender are two different things. Might as well put a new fuel pump in with 175K on it.

Put a small tire or some old blankets under it, and drop it. With some ramps or wood or bricks you have lots of height to yank it out yourself.

desjardines1999

oilcanhenry

You can check the fuel pressure on the supply line going to the engine, but if your K2500 is running good, its not the fuel pump. Your K2500 uses a modular fuel pump and sender, so the whole unit comes out as one. I've been working on vehicles since 1970 and I can assure you that when the fuel guage is dead, its the sending unit in the fuel tank thats gone bad 95 percent or more of the time and that has never changed, even with fuel injection..

Back then the old Chevy C-10-20-30-50 60 pickups/medium duty gasoline trucks had a bad habit of the fuel indicator dropping to center, then crashing towards the Empty mark but we all knew thats how they were. Of course, back then the fuel tank was mounted behind the drivers seat (no extra cabs back then) so changing the sender was a breeze and the mechanical fuel pumps were mounted in the engine block too. Easy-peasey. No fuel injection, just lots of carburetors,of which I have overhauled many.

But thats not what we are dealing with here in 2018.

Once you drop the tank (get any dirt and grime washed away from it before you start) you simply use a punch to knock the locking ring loose and pull the pump/sender unit out after you get the lines and wires disconnected. After you check the tank for sediment, you just reverse it. Use the new O-Ring gasket (put a very _light_ coat of something like silicone or dielectic grease on it after you clean the area) and use your punch to seal the locking ring back down, until it hits all the tabs and is fully seated.

Put some dielectric grease in the wiring harness connections to.keep corrosion away, hook all the lines and wiring back up , shove the tank back up and strap it down.
You'll be GTG for another 175,000 miles with any luck.