ME? I'M BETTING YOU HAVE YET TO FIND YOU'VE DISCONNECTED a positive battery cable or ground connector somewhere or have a like a transmission connector unplugged - and that is throwing the cam code. it happens to everyone allot after a re-build but usually found after (an hour of looking).

however, i assume you have a good battery and voltage regulator. these you should continually check every service they can really trick the dang out of you if you don't. you checked all your fuses. you PULLED FUSES. excellent technique is to isolate by pulling fuses. exclude all fuses you don't need to start the car (using they have no power drains or weak ground your borrowing over).

however. i assume you PHYSICALLY checked your cam and cylinder position. that googled the F out of knowing which cylinder is #1 for sure, you hand cranked to get a puff of air on TDC (you know cam is on right lift, intake not exaust, on right tdc on right harmonic balancer mark of 2 marks), that your sure mechanically your good. i assume you did that before doing electrical or hopefully before re-assy "of it all".

unfortunately, it is sometimes the case the BACK of the fuse panel can be loose. or there can be a wire that is "pulled thin" that you can't see through the wire insulation.

AS FOR THAT, SINCE YOU ARE SO PERSISTENT which is good. you may need to trace the input wire of the CMP back to the PCM (which wire exactly) and check it's resistence back to the CMP itself (i can't say if the sensor interrupts - or + by resistence or bridges the two through resistance - i'd need an OEM diagram and sometimes those are WRONG too). also insure the chinese didn't give you a backwards-wired CMP (if you didn't buy OEM).

My Master keeps telling me "ALWAYS USE OEM on important parts - aftermarket may throw codes". as to CMP there are differnt kinds of hall sensors. there would be a magnet on the cam and sensor to sense. but how wired may not be the same on asian cars as GM. don't think after-market won't sell you a cmp that throws a code: they might. i sometimes get burned on it.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws...ll-effect.html

this one above uses an OP AMP (comparator)

if your ground or voltage regulator aren't right - it predictably won't work right.

 

if you can look in your camshaft sensor hole ... insure the magnets are THERE where the sensor hole is (unless you already did) (unless a parts professional of GM gave you the right camshaft)

or ask the parts dept to show you one, so you can "see where they would be" for reference. the magnets definitely have to be under the sensor hole - and may not be for all models IDK.

you know the deal - you'd rather make a new hole than get a shaft with different magnet placement if that's the deal.

 

so let me summarize on LOW VOLTAGE cmp:

1) you have low voltage MIL LIGHT also. first check that out before "blaming CMP". battery & voltage regulator, grounds, + battery connections (on batt and the stick/bock near engine with 2 points where + connects).

2) you said "it definitely pulses" but didn't say if it's in the threshold of correct voltage. you'd need an oscilloscope to check it both is right volate AND at the right TDC.

3) if it is right, you may have N S magnetic swiched (reverse wires)

4) AFTERMARKET is not good for essential parts. that's a whole circuit there may be an op-amp in that hall sensor and that means COMPATIBILITY - you need OEM on this deal.

5) pull fuses exclude unnecessary circuits. check the CMP wires back to the PCM for low resistance. this is a plastic bulb so there is no ground path back to PCM for the sensor itself via the engine block (still insure the block ground wires are installed). here you need a pinout of the PCM. you have to have an OEM pcm and the OEM diagram for it or you won't know which connector to check the back of as to CMP return to pcm.

6) you already checked voltage regulator and ground and batt

7) it should be impossible to have correct N S magnet arrangement on shaft pulsing CMP over the same, voltage and ground values correct, low resistence wires back to PCM, and OEM PCM and still have that code. (remember if N S are switched or cam position is wrong for #1 TDC, PCM might compensate for it but cause problems on starting; it might throw a code if any were wrong and compensate and still run. it does this regularly when sensors are going bad as best it can.)

at this point either the "signal" is carried on mixed wires (i don't think so i think CMP goes directly to PCM) or this would be subject of a RECALL and the dealer should fix it free - seeing all that replaced and code still thrown. you should call GM and ask them if they would look at it for free since it seems to be impossible and "IT IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE - that wasn't part of the original sale terms"

 

I decided to take intake off to clean grounds and the smaller one on pass side was cut into about half way threw so I fixed it and cleaned them both. Put all back together and now instead of low volt it now reads high volt on cmp. What do you think happened.