Transmission fluid/filter/gasket change? - 2000 Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 4x4, auto.
#1
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Transmission fluid/filter/gasket change? - 2000 Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 4x4, auto.
I have a 2000 Silverado 1500, 4x4, Automatic Transmission, 5.3L motor, with 217k miles.
I'm trying to prepare myself to change the Transmission fluid, filter and gasket, and I have a few questions before I place my parts order.
1. How do I tell if I have a deep or shallow pan? I'm not actually sure exactly what transmission I have, or how to tell?
2. Should I replace the 2 solenoids while I'm in there? Are they easy to replace?
3. Any higher quality parts/fluids that you recommend?
4. Any idiot guide, helpful hints, or advice for the job?
Thanks for all your time and help!!!
I'm trying to prepare myself to change the Transmission fluid, filter and gasket, and I have a few questions before I place my parts order.
1. How do I tell if I have a deep or shallow pan? I'm not actually sure exactly what transmission I have, or how to tell?
2. Should I replace the 2 solenoids while I'm in there? Are they easy to replace?
3. Any higher quality parts/fluids that you recommend?
4. Any idiot guide, helpful hints, or advice for the job?
Thanks for all your time and help!!!
#2
I'm here for the party
one thing to do about the trans pan is get both filter and gaskets sets and enough trans fluid for the deep pan. take back what you dont use.
i wouldnt replace parts if theyre not going bad, would suck to have a "new" part go bad out of the box then having to drop the pan again.
never had an issue with autozone or napa parts, never got any from advance so cant say anything bad about them
use the proper Tq on the bolts. for years ive always just used my wrist only to have them leak later on. put a Tq wrench on them and that stopped the leaks
i wouldnt replace parts if theyre not going bad, would suck to have a "new" part go bad out of the box then having to drop the pan again.
never had an issue with autozone or napa parts, never got any from advance so cant say anything bad about them
use the proper Tq on the bolts. for years ive always just used my wrist only to have them leak later on. put a Tq wrench on them and that stopped the leaks
#3
What model transmission is it?
4L60:
shallow pan
deep pan
4L60:
shallow pan
deep pan
#4
4L60E:
#5
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your help guys!
Irish_Alley,
Good idea with the double order. It's nice to be able to do that at your local FAPS. As far as replacing parts that aren't bad, I understand the risks, this is why I asked. Although, sometimes it's best to replace things prematurely because of the labor involved getting in there in the first place.
Mountainmanjoe,
Don't know yet, other than it's the original one. From the looks of it, all I have to do is go look at the pan to see if it's shallow or deep. Unfortunately, it's pouring rain right now.
Thanks again guys!
Anybody else have any tips, tricks, or advice?
Irish_Alley,
one thing to do about the trans pan is get both filter and gaskets sets and enough trans fluid for the deep pan. take back what you dont use.
i wouldnt replace parts if theyre not going bad, would suck to have a "new" part go bad out of the box then having to drop the pan again.
i wouldnt replace parts if theyre not going bad, would suck to have a "new" part go bad out of the box then having to drop the pan again.
Mountainmanjoe,
What model transmission is it?
Thanks again guys!
Anybody else have any tips, tricks, or advice?
#6
If you're going to be changing the trans fluid regularly or plan on doing mods to the valve body, I highly recommend getting a transmission pan that has a drain plug if yours doesn't already have one. It makes for a much cleaner job. You can get a Dorman brand one on amazon for about $37.
The Torx bolts holding the shift cable in in place are near impossible to remove without stripping them. A lot of people just bend the bracket out of the way to get the pan off. If you can get them out, I recommend replacing them with a stainless steel hex bolt or a grade 5 bolt.
Torque everything to spec. The pan bolts are only 9 ft-lbs. It doesn't seem like much but don't go any more than that.
The Torx bolts holding the shift cable in in place are near impossible to remove without stripping them. A lot of people just bend the bracket out of the way to get the pan off. If you can get them out, I recommend replacing them with a stainless steel hex bolt or a grade 5 bolt.
Torque everything to spec. The pan bolts are only 9 ft-lbs. It doesn't seem like much but don't go any more than that.
#7
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
KChevy75,
All great advice, thank you! Do you have any idea what size bolts those are, and how many? I might not have another vehicle to run out for them after removing them. Also, what do you know about those two solenoids? Would you replace them? Thanks again!
If you're going to be changing the trans fluid regularly or plan on doing mods to the valve body, I highly recommend getting a transmission pan that has a drain plug if yours doesn't already have one. It makes for a much cleaner job. You can get a Dorman brand one on amazon for about $37.
The Torx bolts holding the shift cable in in place are near impossible to remove without stripping them. A lot of people just bend the bracket out of the way to get the pan off. If you can get them out, I recommend replacing them with a stainless steel hex bolt or a grade 5 bolt.
Torque everything to spec. The pan bolts are only 9 ft-lbs. It doesn't seem like much but don't go any more than that.
The Torx bolts holding the shift cable in in place are near impossible to remove without stripping them. A lot of people just bend the bracket out of the way to get the pan off. If you can get them out, I recommend replacing them with a stainless steel hex bolt or a grade 5 bolt.
Torque everything to spec. The pan bolts are only 9 ft-lbs. It doesn't seem like much but don't go any more than that.
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#8
Is it the 4-speed?