So is this not a sign of a bad cable necessarily then?

 

If the water is dripping/sizzling on the silver wrap, no.

 

I wish someone knew the process to do a voltage drop test on the positive cable. Seems like swapping it is going to be a PITA.

The fact that I have noticed my issues tend to act up if and only if the voltage is pegged at 14 or it dips below has to be worth something. Today it was around say 13volts when the airbag light began to flash on my dash and my rear view compass went bizerk.

 

It does.

 

Oh okay! I'll get some pics snapped tomorrow and then upload them from my PC! Thank you!

By the way I appreciate everyone's input and hope that I can get this fixed asap. Nothing like starting a new job and not having reliable transportation. RIP.

 

I think you should also run a full diagnostic scan with a good tool.

 

I can try and get my hands on one or take it to a shop that might have said machine.

I was planning on taking it to a dealer but they want $160 an hour for electrical diagnostics and I unfortunately don't have much faith in our GM centers around me. I took it to a fella who operates a small shop who works for one of the major GM dealers and he checked the very basics and washed his hands of trying any further. He happily took my money though.

 

Voltage drop testing is easy - you’ll just need a way to secure the leads to the cable ends to ensure a good connection; and if your meter doesn’t have a min/max recording function, you’ll need a helper to crank the engine.

Make sure absolutely all accessories are off for the cranking test as any additional electrical loads will affect the results. They “should” be disabled during cranking but it’s better to be certain they’re off than to ASSume anything.

If you have auto head and park lights, remove the relays/fuses that power them.

The meter positive/red lead should be on the positive battery post/terminal and the negative/black lead should be on the starter end of the cable.

Crank the engine while recording/observing the voltage. The reading at its peak level is the voltage drop of the cable (assuming the cable connection at the battery is clean and corrosion free).

It shouldn’t exceed 0.50 volts during cranking. If it does, inspect the ends of the cable for adequate crimping of the ring terminal and verify the bolts/nuts securing them are tight. Repair or replace as needed.

The same test can be done on the other cables by positioning the meter leads as follows:

Negative cable, block to battery - red lead on block end/direct block contact/alternator case - black lead on battery negative terminal/cable. Can be checked during cranking as well as with engine running.

Underhood fuse block supply - red lead at battery positive, black lead at fuse block. Check with engine running.

Charging cable - red lead at alternator end - black lead at battery positive - check with engine running and every possible accessory turned on - headlights, radio, blower motor on high, rear defroster grid (if equipped), etc.

Technically, no cable should drop more than 0.2 volts - however that needs to be slightly adjusted due to these being high load cables, cable age and other varying factors - so it’s OK to see up to 0.5 volts dropped, but more than that is reason to suspect it’s due for replacement.

Additionally, your description of the apparent connection between charging voltage and the symptoms leads me to suspect the alternator. You shouldn’t be seeing random warnings at anything 13.0 volts or higher. It’s possible the alternator is failing and unable to produce adequate amperage when the voltage starts to drop.

 

Many auto part dealers will run a free scan for you ... Advance, Autozone, O'Reilly, etc.
Often mechanics will do it as a courtesy as well.

 

Maybe it’s different in other places, but in my area the parts stores will only check the systems you’re concerned about, and it’s usually limited to powertrain, ABS and air bags.

Those scans don’t check all of the modules on the vehicle and, in a case like this, I’d want to know what the entire “state of health” of the vehicle is (meaning exactly which modules have codes, which ones don’t, which ones may not be communicating, etc).

That’s not to say there’s no useful information from the primary systems, I just think of it as a few pieces of the puzzle.

As for shops - it depends. A mechanic at a dealership or chain shop (Firestone, Midas, etc) might do it as a courtesy if they don’t have to log the time (depends on their personal attitude).

My shop is independent and we’ll check and clear codes (record any the owner may be concerned with) for free, but if you want us to spend time trying to diagnose it, the “free time” is limited.