Poozer's_Chevy

I have a clunking noise coming from the front end somewhere. I can't seem to pinpoint it though. I have even taken it to the dealership and they said it was the idler arm. So I changed that, new struts, and checked the sway bar bushings. Yet the noise is still there. With the truck off the ground, you can hear it almost coming from the steering gearbox. But while driving it, it sounds more like ther passenger side than the gearbox on the drivers side and you don't feel it in the wheel. All the ball joints and tie rods still look good and the alignment was good when I checked that. The noise is driving me insane and need to fix it! Please help

cctwb

One of my trucks is a 2013 1500. I had a clicking vs clunk and it was the left front wheel bearing. I did not find out until I found some bearings on the ground. Easy fix. I also had the idler go out a few months ago and no one could tell me what was wrong. Found a quick method to check pulleys. Cut a jug in half, put the head of stew driver where the jug cap would go, and place the end of screw driver on the pully nut and listen from the cut end of the jug. You can clearly hear the pully screaming if its bad. Again a easy fix. Can you explain a little more on how the clunk sounds and when you hear it. Is it every three seconds, minutes..... when you turn or hit a bump.....

Poozer's_Chevy

The noise is mostly heard when I drive across light bumps. It almost sounds like lose bolts on the strut. But, It happens at all speeds and does not have a consistent rythm to it. On harder bumps I don't notice it as much as light bumps, like diving across gravel.

Gumby22

Sway bar links is the most likely cause - the way you describe the noise on gravel vs. harder bumps is a very common symptom. Even if they “feel” tight during an inspection, you have to remember they’re under tension when they’re installed. To really see if they’re loose, you need to get both front wheels off the ground and disconnect one end of one link to relieve the tension. Then you can check for play/looseness.

Poozer's_Chevy

The Sway bar links were cheap so I just changed them. They old ones did not look bad and it did not change the noise. The noise is still there.

Gumby22

Is this for the 2015 3500 listed in your profile? If not, what year/truck is it? And is there a lift/leveling kit installed?

Poozer's_Chevy

Yes it is for the 2015 3500HD SRW I am talking about.

Gumby22

Ok - there’s no specific components mentioned in GM TSB’s about mystery clunking noises on these trucks, so here’s a few things to try in order to isolate the source.

But first I need to clarify a few statements just so I’m clearly understanding you.

1) You said you changed the struts but your truck should be coil over shock - so did you change the coil spring too, or just the shock?

2) Did you personally check the alignment, or did you take it to a shop to be checked?

Tests you can do to help isolate the source. All of these finish with the question “Do you hear the noise?”

1) After a normal day of driving, once you’ve parked it for the night, jounce the front bumper with the wheels straight ahead, full left and full right. Note whether a certain direction increases or decreases the noise frequency or volume.

2) Shift to reverse or drive but remain still with your foot on the brake. Gently rev the engine - no need to exceed 1500 RPM - and listen for it in both gears.

3) Get the front wheels off the ground and support the frame in the front end so the wheels can hang clear of the ground. Inspect the mounting points for the control arms - use a prybar between the arms and frame to check for play. There should be almost no play on either arm, but the upper arm bushings are much softer than the lower arm bushings, so expect more play relative to the lower arm.

Poozer's_Chevy

1. So I did only change the shocks

2. I did have it professionally aligned

Answer...... I finally found the noise. After using some of your tips, I found that the right side lower control arm is missing the bushing at the shock. I recall a time of a hard tire hit and the noise began to worsen. So after using your tips I found the very distinct sound and could actually see the shock move at the anchor point.
Now the trouble is to find just the bushing at the shock mount. The rest of the lower control arm is good. Do you have a place I can buy just the bushing?
Thank you for the help finding the noise! I just need to fix it now.

Gumby22

Glad you figured it out - it would be wise to make sure the other side doesn’t also need replacement. Those bushings don’t have to be replaced in pairs but usually when one is worn or fails the other isn’t far behind.

The bushing is available on rockauto.com - if it’s available there then almost any local supplier should also be able to get it.

They can be replaced with a ball joint press and adapters - many parts stores such as AutoZone have them available for rent.