98 Astro front engine wiring
January 23rd, 2018, 8:52 PM
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98 Astro front engine wiring
Does the front engine wiring harness go between the front cover and the water pump? Is there a metal clip that uses the front right intake manifold bolt? Where does the wire to the EVO (PS pump) go? Does the wiring to the starter go over or under the R motor mount?
January 25th, 2018, 10:29 PM
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Got it figured out. I am replacing the engine and should have taken more "before" pictures. After the harness splits off the two leads to the Alternator, it attaches by a metal clip to the side of the alternator bracket and then attaches to a stud on the bottom R front of the block. From there it goes to the crank position sensor and then to the EVO connector on the PS pump. Have to connect the exhaust, reassemble the steering, reattach the master brake cylinder and bleed. Connect the battery, add trans fluid and PS fluid and fire it up.
March 13th, 2019, 9:23 AM
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Whered you buy the new engine? Or did you get it repaired? Remanufactured? How many miles were on it prior to the swap? Why did you replace the engine originally? Im buying a 99 LS passenger van with 155k 4 owners.
March 13th, 2019, 10:42 AM
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I'd have to look back to see where I got the engine. It is a reman and I think that is the way to go - (better than a rebuild and cheaper than new). We bought the van in '98 with 3,600 miles on it (program vehicle). It had 277K when it blew (water in the oil). The body is in beautiful shape and I figured for the money I would spend on replacing the engine, I wouldn't be able to get anything remotely close to replacing this vehicle.
Now a few helpful tips. Although I have seen pictures of people doing this swap in their driveway, it is not an easy swap. Take lots of pictures as you disassemble. Label things. Replace the fuel injection with the newer unit. Use the best quality intake manifold gasket. If the steering box is in any way questionable, replace it when the motor is out of the frame. I replaced the PS pump and hoses, water pump, distributor, new axles, rotors, calipers, idler arms. Plan for a new radiator. Check the ABS wiring along the driver's side frame rail for heat damage. If you remove the AC compressor from the engine, you can suspend it from the firewall on the body and you will not have to crack the AC system. You will have to crack the brake system and the fuel system.
I now have a little over 10K on the new motor and I spent under 3K on everything. I feel like I can take the van anywhere. Best move I've made but glad it's over. Hope this helps.
Now a few helpful tips. Although I have seen pictures of people doing this swap in their driveway, it is not an easy swap. Take lots of pictures as you disassemble. Label things. Replace the fuel injection with the newer unit. Use the best quality intake manifold gasket. If the steering box is in any way questionable, replace it when the motor is out of the frame. I replaced the PS pump and hoses, water pump, distributor, new axles, rotors, calipers, idler arms. Plan for a new radiator. Check the ABS wiring along the driver's side frame rail for heat damage. If you remove the AC compressor from the engine, you can suspend it from the firewall on the body and you will not have to crack the AC system. You will have to crack the brake system and the fuel system.
I now have a little over 10K on the new motor and I spent under 3K on everything. I feel like I can take the van anywhere. Best move I've made but glad it's over. Hope this helps.