Beretta, Corsica, & pre-1995 Lumina Among this grouping, these three cars, while being similar to each other, offered something for everyone, from a sports coupe to a roomy sedan.
Platform: L-Body

1996 Beretta 3.1 L Plug Access

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Old November 25th, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Default 1996 Beretta 3.1 L Plug Access

I'm trying to reach the plugs on the back (next to firewall). I've been told that you can take off a bracket and tip the engine forward. I've searched online and looked in the manual without success. Where is this bracket? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Tom
Old November 25th, 2012, 1:27 PM
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Ahh no. You'll need a universal in your ratchet extension setup.
Old November 28th, 2012, 5:18 AM
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Default 1996 Beretta 3.1 L Plug Access

I can't even see the plugs from the top of the engine. I haven't taken off the coils, intake manifold and all the other stuff. If I did, maybe that would work.

Another guy at work mentioned taking off the front tires and going through the wheel wells. Is that a better method?
Old November 29th, 2012, 8:22 PM
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You can NOT reach them through the wheel wells at all. Not physically possible.

The 1996 3.1L v6 Beretta has on the passenger side an engine block that holds the engine up and upright on that side.
Another one exists at the bottom to help stop it from tilting when driving.

There is a single big block on the driver side that attaches to the transmission.

Anyways.
The easiest way to reach the 3 plugs at the rear of the engine is to probably remove the coil pack assembly, but please remember what spark wires go where.

If you wish to remove an engine block to tilt the engine a little, I suggest it be the top passenger side mount assemble, easiest way is to remove the 3 vertical bolts, its right in the middle top of the serpentine belt routing.

HOWEVER, if you dissemble that mount, I recoment a jack under the car on the oil pan to support the engine, but BE CAREFUL your not lifting the engine to much as you will start lifting the car can can crack/bend the oil pan.

To tilt the engine forwards, thats up to you, it will want to sit upright somewhat on its own, maybe a rope tied around the alternator and then to the top raditor support, across the top of the radiator.
Thats how I did with mine. But I had changed out the engine as I had a cracked block, and I had other things to get to.


Chances are you do not have to rock the engine, just be careful, those solenoids and vacuum hoses behind the coil packs are a problem if you mess them up.
They should all be attacked to one bracket that should come off with 2 nuts/bolts. and should come off before the coil packs.
I forget by now.


Good luck.


Oh, I suggest various extensions, and maybe a universal joint of you need it.
I was able to just use my rachet and my 3 inch extension, and my 5 inch extension.
It will take time, its a tight fit.

EDIT:
When removing that engine mount, it will sometimes want to fall towards the firewall, so be careful you don't get your hands, fingers, or arms smashed. lol
Just try it without removing the mount first. Should be easy and will just take time and some contortionist activities. lol

The engine mount I mentioned is the same one that has to come off to replace the serpentine belt as it is in the middle of the belt, idk why, I dislike this design.
The old engine mount designs worked fine with the old 3.1L v6 MPFI's in my opinion, but they did sag somewhat sooner than the 1996 design, ow well. lol

Last edited by GHOSTOWLGRID; November 29th, 2012 at 8:26 PM. Reason: added
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