2012 Captiva electrical issues
October 1st, 2020, 9:20 AM
#221
Johnnie
Last edited by 2014 Captiva; October 1st, 2020 at 9:24 AM.
October 6th, 2020, 2:00 PM
#222
CF Beginner
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
radio / electrical issues
Is there anything we can look into for you, dbackssss? We understand this is a bit peculiar and we'll gladly do some additional research on our end to try and find answers for you. Please private message us your VIN and mileage if we can further investigate this matter.
Amber N.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Amber N.
Chevrolet Customer Care
December 15th, 2020, 3:13 AM
#223
So I will be calling the GM garage Monday but I thought I'd see if anyone else has had these issues.
I have a 2012 Captiva LTZ.
The radio (local not satellite) cuts out and the display goes blank except for clock. A few times it has said "device not supported" but nothing is plugged in to stereo.
Today I also heard static from the speakers not like a weak station hiss but more like an electrical static and the headlights dimmed. Also as I was driving down the road on dry pavement in a straight line, the chime went off and the traction control maintenance light illuminated once then the parking brake maintenance light illuminated then went out.
Thanks
I have a 2012 Captiva LTZ.
The radio (local not satellite) cuts out and the display goes blank except for clock. A few times it has said "device not supported" but nothing is plugged in to stereo.
Today I also heard static from the speakers not like a weak station hiss but more like an electrical static and the headlights dimmed. Also as I was driving down the road on dry pavement in a straight line, the chime went off and the traction control maintenance light illuminated once then the parking brake maintenance light illuminated then went out.
Thanks
December 26th, 2020, 9:00 PM
#224
CF Beginner
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update, still nothing
Took it to the mechanic, he says a valve job but won't do it because they don't make an aftermarket motor in case something goes wrong then he has nothing to fall back on.
Stopped, the vehicle will buck and shudder and lights flicker like a disco show...i sit too long, it idles too hard and the check engine light flashes with the service stabilitrak and service traction control then the check engine light stays on solid if i am moving. Diagnostic scanners will show that there’s a cylinder 2 misfire, twice. Sometimes smells like sulfur (which I would think it's the catalytic converter).
still at a loss what to do
Stopped, the vehicle will buck and shudder and lights flicker like a disco show...i sit too long, it idles too hard and the check engine light flashes with the service stabilitrak and service traction control then the check engine light stays on solid if i am moving. Diagnostic scanners will show that there’s a cylinder 2 misfire, twice. Sometimes smells like sulfur (which I would think it's the catalytic converter).
still at a loss what to do
I bought my captiva used in 2013
Driving down the road with the air conditioner on the car shut off and turned back on twice.
Today it did it again but this time the service traction control came up on the screen with the wrench and the amber P came on, not the parking brake.
Well with the car having a mind of its own it would die and reset. Husband cleared codes and it was ok. I had a full tune up done on it at the dealership. That did not fix it. It shakes when it runs. Service traction control comes on, service stabilitrak and check engine light flashes sometimes. Code comes up as a cylinder 2 misfire. Taking it to a mechanic and not the dealership as the dealership is not helpful. He says so far could be the catalytic converter or a valve but gotta look at it. Will update again after he looks at it.
Driving down the road with the air conditioner on the car shut off and turned back on twice.
Today it did it again but this time the service traction control came up on the screen with the wrench and the amber P came on, not the parking brake.
Well with the car having a mind of its own it would die and reset. Husband cleared codes and it was ok. I had a full tune up done on it at the dealership. That did not fix it. It shakes when it runs. Service traction control comes on, service stabilitrak and check engine light flashes sometimes. Code comes up as a cylinder 2 misfire. Taking it to a mechanic and not the dealership as the dealership is not helpful. He says so far could be the catalytic converter or a valve but gotta look at it. Will update again after he looks at it.
February 23rd, 2021, 4:39 PM
#225
Thanks to Shuvl for the fix (for most). I've read every reply in this thread two weeks or so ago. I have a 2014 Captiva. I immediately added two ground straps, one from the battery to the Driver's shock tower bolt and one from the alt bracket to the passenger shock tower bolt (sanded to bare metal, attached, tightened and then coated in dielectric grease). Two weeks with no problem, and then two days ago my daughter unlocked doors with remote, put key in, turned it, all dead. She disconnected battery and reconnected, everything works. Hopefully there is another fix that can be suggested because this is my 16 y/o daughters daily driver. She knows how to disconnect the battery if it happens, but, I just don't want something to happen while she is driving.
Replace the factory ground wire? I would appreciate anyone's thoughts.
Johnnie
Replace the factory ground wire? I would appreciate anyone's thoughts.
Johnnie
One way you could check and ensure that your engine has a good quality ground is with a cheap Digital Multimeter. Set the Meter to Volts, put the red probe to the positive terminal on the battery, then the negative probe to the engine block, then write down the numbers. Then, take a measurement off the battery it's self, and write down the numbers again.
The voltage drop (or difference) should in theory be less than .1V... I will have to double check with my own Captiva. I have a 2015 model, and it doesn't seem to have these grounding issues, so maybe I can provide some reference of what a known good working setup looks like.
Last edited by trillobite; February 23rd, 2021 at 4:41 PM.
March 7th, 2021, 7:36 AM
#226
New User
Awaiting E-mail Confirmation
Awaiting E-mail Confirmation
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Blinking lights and randomly shutting down?
I’ve had the car a whopping 4 months and so far I’ve replaced the transmission, power steering and battery the check engine light came on and now it locks the key in the ignition and won’t start, when sitting at stop light it rough idles from hell, it has randomly shut off for no reason mid driving, my four year old is terrified to be in this car and I’m afraid to drive it I’m so ready to scrap this car I can’t afford to fix anything else. I was told not to buy a Chevy now I understand why.
March 7th, 2021, 9:31 PM
#227
CF Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2012 Captiva Electrical issues
We are a Chevy family. Immediate family only, we own 22 chevy vehicles, with 4 of them being restored classics. We have from early 70's to a few 2021's. So disappointed in this Captiva!! My husband has worked at a Chevy dealership for 24 years!! My daughter that is college and working owns the Captiva. It has not run properly in months. We have replaced the battery, battery cables, relay, alternator, and added two ground wires. Once we replace a part, the voltage is checked, everything drives great......... and within 35 miles the car is dead again. The mechanics at the dealership have had it several times to diagnose...with no luck for a permanate fix. My daughter saved her money and paid nearly $8k for this car and it does not even have 80k on it. We have an 88 and an 03 the are over 300k still going strong. There seriously needs to be a recall. I guess she's lucky I'm willing to be stuck at home all the time while she drives mine to school and work. Apparently all the 12s and 13s have this issue and nobody has come up with a permanent fix??
August 5th, 2021, 12:30 PM
#228
CF Beginner
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2012 Captiva electrical issues
My 2012 Captiva is at the dealership now being diagnosed. I left them with this forum information to review and a full sheet of issues. I was getting random dash lights indicating to service traction control or parking brake light; or blinker, radio or power outlet would pause. The dealer could not recreate nor diagnose. But last Saturday we were on the summit of Mt A in York Maine and the car died. No power to anything, back hatch would not open, key stuck in ignition, relay switch clicking in middle console; then after about 10 minutes power came back and car started. Luckily we could drive home. I'm hoping this time they find a cause and can repair. I'm afraid to drive it. Where will it die next? I did advise the dealership that some people on this forum have replaced the battery cable assembly, not a cheap fix but if it works...... It would be nice if Chevy recognized this issue and issued a recall.
August 5th, 2021, 9:18 PM
#229
It's possible your issue is not related to a grounding problem. I assume you made your own grounding straps, is there a way that you can ensure that you have a good quality crimp on the terminal ends?
One way you could check and ensure that your engine has a good quality ground is with a cheap Digital Multimeter. Set the Meter to Volts, put the red probe to the positive terminal on the battery, then the negative probe to the engine block, then write down the numbers. Then, take a measurement off the battery it's self, and write down the numbers again.
The voltage drop (or difference) should in theory be less than .1V... I will have to double check with my own Captiva. I have a 2015 model, and it doesn't seem to have these grounding issues, so maybe I can provide some reference of what a known good working setup looks like.
One way you could check and ensure that your engine has a good quality ground is with a cheap Digital Multimeter. Set the Meter to Volts, put the red probe to the positive terminal on the battery, then the negative probe to the engine block, then write down the numbers. Then, take a measurement off the battery it's self, and write down the numbers again.
The voltage drop (or difference) should in theory be less than .1V... I will have to double check with my own Captiva. I have a 2015 model, and it doesn't seem to have these grounding issues, so maybe I can provide some reference of what a known good working setup looks like.
Bought 2014 Captiva in Aug 2020 for my daughter.
about Oct 2020 - she had her first complete shut down where EVERYTHING was dead, key stuck in ignition, etc....was able to reset by disconnecting battery and re-connect. This problem happened about once every two weeks. During this time I read this thread and added the grounding straps (factory made) per Shuvl's posts (which did work for many others). At first I thought it was fixed, but then in December 2020 another shut down.
Dec 2020 - went with option 2, replace factory + cables from the battery. $180. Now in Aug 2021 not a single shut down since. However....
June 2021 - Transmission problem, threw a "no communication" code with the TCM (trans control module). Found a VERY qualified auto electrical specialist ( I skipped the dealership and all others), he found that the plug from the harness to the TCM (which is inside of the trans) was not making a good connection. By manipulating the plug into the trans, he could replicate the "full shutdown" and/or throw the TCM code (sorry, don't remember the number). He disassembled the plug/pigtail, adjusted all of the contacts and re-assembled. So far, no additional problems.
I don't know if the problem was the factory + wires, or the TCM plug, or maybe both, but we are now two months in with no additional problems.
Do not take this to the dealership. Find a REAL auto electrician.
Johnnie
August 9th, 2021, 10:31 AM
#230
CF Beginner
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Being hopeful that my experience helps others and I am thankful for all of the experienced advise in this thread (prior to trillobite's response, I read EVERY post a few months ago).
Bought 2014 Captiva in Aug 2020 for my daughter.
about Oct 2020 - she had her first complete shut down where EVERYTHING was dead, key stuck in ignition, etc....was able to reset by disconnecting battery and re-connect. This problem happened about once every two weeks. During this time I read this thread and added the grounding straps (factory made) per Shuvl's posts (which did work for many others). At first I thought it was fixed, but then in December 2020 another shut down.
Dec 2020 - went with option 2, replace factory + cables from the battery. $180. Now in Aug 2021 not a single shut down since. However....
June 2021 - Transmission problem, threw a "no communication" code with the TCM (trans control module). Found a VERY qualified auto electrical specialist ( I skipped the dealership and all others), he found that the plug from the harness to the TCM (which is inside of the trans) was not making a good connection. By manipulating the plug into the trans, he could replicate the "full shutdown" and/or throw the TCM code (sorry, don't remember the number). He disassembled the plug/pigtail, adjusted all of the contacts and re-assembled. So far, no additional problems.
I don't know if the problem was the factory + wires, or the TCM plug, or maybe both, but we are now two months in with no additional problems.
Do not take this to the dealership. Find a REAL auto electrician.
Johnnie
Bought 2014 Captiva in Aug 2020 for my daughter.
about Oct 2020 - she had her first complete shut down where EVERYTHING was dead, key stuck in ignition, etc....was able to reset by disconnecting battery and re-connect. This problem happened about once every two weeks. During this time I read this thread and added the grounding straps (factory made) per Shuvl's posts (which did work for many others). At first I thought it was fixed, but then in December 2020 another shut down.
Dec 2020 - went with option 2, replace factory + cables from the battery. $180. Now in Aug 2021 not a single shut down since. However....
June 2021 - Transmission problem, threw a "no communication" code with the TCM (trans control module). Found a VERY qualified auto electrical specialist ( I skipped the dealership and all others), he found that the plug from the harness to the TCM (which is inside of the trans) was not making a good connection. By manipulating the plug into the trans, he could replicate the "full shutdown" and/or throw the TCM code (sorry, don't remember the number). He disassembled the plug/pigtail, adjusted all of the contacts and re-assembled. So far, no additional problems.
I don't know if the problem was the factory + wires, or the TCM plug, or maybe both, but we are now two months in with no additional problems.
Do not take this to the dealership. Find a REAL auto electrician.
Johnnie