93ChevyCavalier

I have a 1993 Cavalier 2.2L. Sometimes here recently I can drive it and it will drive along perfectly and then all of a suddent it will start having power issues where it will lose power and start slowly down. it doesnt buck or stumble, and it doesnt have a misfire neither. It will just suddently lose its power for afew seconds, maybe 20 seconds then it will start powering up back to normal. But when it does this (you know how a fuel pump sounds as it pressurizes when a car is first fired up) it makes that noise during the loss of power. It did that acouple of days ago and the check engine light came on and I dont have a code scanner. Is there anyway of checking the codes manually without the code scanner? Any help is highly appreciated. Thanks

dkalleck

Sounds like you're having fuel delivery issues. If you take the car to an Oreilly's or just about any parts store you can borrow their scanner and check it for free.

scoopster

scanners wont work on them, take a paper clip, put it in the first two holes of the black square plug under drivers dash. turn key forward and count the light flashings of the check engine light, it will repeat each one 3 times.

Ive had my 93 for 11 years

rapid

Yes scanner will not work there.

93Cavi22

Hey Scoopster - My 93 is doing something similar, losing power then actually dying and won't start back up. CEL goes on, but I can't for the life of me find the plug to use a paper clip in. I checked all around the driver's side dash, around the fuses, further under and no plug! Any idea where it is? Thanks

scoopster

it under the steering wheel under the dash, it's a plug with 8 holes in it, the back 6 holes are empty, put the paper clip in on the front rights side first two holes. Its right up against the lower dash piece under the steering wheel.

the first code will be one two, one two, one two, which is 12 which is normal.

count the flashes after the code 12

scoopster

also take the EGR valve off and clean it with carburator choke cleaner, get long skinny wire brushes at harbor freight and clean with hard brush into the intake inside the EGR and vacuum out exhaust residue.

Plus take out sensor in the back and center of the intake, two torque screws hold it in, look at how bad the carbon build up is on the spring, clean it off also.
plus spray inside throttle body where air hose is attached, then start car giving it gas cleaning it out some.

( I took my intake apart and cleaned it completely, the hose which sticks up inside of it was clogged completely with carbon build up also last year)

93Cavi22

I found the diagnostic plug - I had to remove the trim panel under the steering wheel - someone must have pushed it up there. Codes read 12...12...12...12. I have a lot of trouble starting in the AM, it takes 8-10 short starts where it catches, then dies immediately. It finally starts, and idles OK, but cuts out as soon as the gas pedal is pushed more than a quarter inch. After it warms a bit, it will accellerate, but will act like no spark if the gas is applied beyond just a touch. I put in a new gas filter with no improvement. I will try to clean the EGR connection tubing and the IAC (is that the sensor back center of the intake manifold?), plus the throttle body.
Question - would the throttle position sensor (TPS) give these symptoms - hard starts, lack of accelleration? Or maybe O2 sensor?

93Cavi22

I replaced the TPS and O2 sensor, and sprayed out the throttle body with intake cleaner. Still have trouble starting. It will start after 8-10 tries, then idles well. In gear, if I push the gas just a little, it will slowly move forward, topping out at 15-20 mph. Any more pressure on the pedal causes it to act like there is no gas or spark. I floored it and it backfired but would not accelerate, and the CEL came on briefly, setting code 44, oxygen sensor lean exhaust, probably because I flooded it by fooring it. After a few miles of limping along, it will work normally with light pressure on the gas, but will lose power if the pedal is pushed too hard. It will occasionally rev up when I floor it, so it can't be a plugged cat. converter. Would the EGR system cause this? And, wouldn't an EGR problem set a code? Please give me any thoughts. Thanks!

scoopster

Your catalatyc converter is clogged. Start the car put your hand at the tail pipe and feel how much pressure is coming out. Compare to another vehicle. I just did my buddies S-10 today, and he could not go over 25. We put a hole in his converter, then he drove up to 70 no problem. my cavalier had 3 times the pressure coming out the tail pipe.

Just expect the exhaust bolts to break. thats why I took mine and had it done. Plus when car is burning rich, it will clog them up faster also.

exhaust places will charge $250 and up to replace them. Look on Ebay, got mine for $50, then took it to muffler place which charged $75 to modify and install.