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Disabling ABS
October 1st, 2011, 3:48 PM
#11
The EBCM is powered by the PCM/ABS fuse in the I/P fuse block and two fusible links, Y and Z, under the hood. The PCM/ABS fuse supplies other components as the name suggests and thus should be left alone. Cutting the fusible links is problematic going back since they shouldn't be spliced back together due to high currents.
That said, I'm not sure what the "problem" is exactly. Is the signal from one of the wheel speed sensors dropping out, simulating a wheel lock-up? If so, it's probably best to disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor (can be any one of the four wheels). The EBCM will put two and two together from no sensor signal, vehicle moving, and brakes disengaged and turn on the ABS warning light. That'll effectively disable the ABS.
That said, I'm not sure what the "problem" is exactly. Is the signal from one of the wheel speed sensors dropping out, simulating a wheel lock-up? If so, it's probably best to disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor (can be any one of the four wheels). The EBCM will put two and two together from no sensor signal, vehicle moving, and brakes disengaged and turn on the ABS warning light. That'll effectively disable the ABS.
October 2nd, 2011, 6:51 AM
#12
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The EBCM is powered by the PCM/ABS fuse in the I/P fuse block and two fusible links, Y and Z, under the hood. The PCM/ABS fuse supplies other components as the name suggests and thus should be left alone. Cutting the fusible links is problematic going back since they shouldn't be spliced back together due to high currents.
That said, I'm not sure what the "problem" is exactly. Is the signal from one of the wheel speed sensors dropping out, simulating a wheel lock-up? If so, it's probably best to disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor (can be any one of the four wheels). The EBCM will put two and two together from no sensor signal, vehicle moving, and brakes disengaged and turn on the ABS warning light. That'll effectively disable the ABS.
That said, I'm not sure what the "problem" is exactly. Is the signal from one of the wheel speed sensors dropping out, simulating a wheel lock-up? If so, it's probably best to disconnect the electrical connector from the wheel speed sensor (can be any one of the four wheels). The EBCM will put two and two together from no sensor signal, vehicle moving, and brakes disengaged and turn on the ABS warning light. That'll effectively disable the ABS.
Secondly I gather you're saying that there is an electrical connection to each wheel that could be disconnected and thus disable the ABS?
As far as the problem goes, it began shortly after I had new rotors installed on the front. As I would brake and turn the wheels (in parking etc.) I would hear what I would describe as a "grinding noise" and at the next re-start of the car the ABS light would be on. This has continued with the addition that at times I get a "studdering" of my brake pedal when I apply pressure as I slow to a stop for a light or small child crossing the street.
I'm going to monitor more closely the above when the light is off (is THAT when it happens...i.e. the ABS system is active) and when the ABS light is on (The ABS system is inactive.)
Is it possible that the mechanic screwed up my front ABS sensors when they changed out the rotors? And if so what could they possibly have done?
Thanks for your continued advice and patience.
October 2nd, 2011, 10:27 AM
#13
That fuse is upstream of the main relay that powers the ignition, fuel, and emission components. It can't get more "essential" than that. As for the wheel speed sensors, each wheel has one. Like I stated, disconnecting one will create a permanent fault and effectively disable the ABS.
Now, I'm surprised that you didn't take it back to the mechanic as soon as the problem was noticed. Or, are you leaving that part out? Anyway, you seem to be going blindly by some noise and ABS warning. Instead of looking for ways to disable something you don't really understand (sorry to be blunt), you should probably take it in and get it diagnosed properly. It may turn out to be something dangerous like a stripped caliper mounting bracket bolt or something as simple as a chaffed sensor wire.
Now, I'm surprised that you didn't take it back to the mechanic as soon as the problem was noticed. Or, are you leaving that part out? Anyway, you seem to be going blindly by some noise and ABS warning. Instead of looking for ways to disable something you don't really understand (sorry to be blunt), you should probably take it in and get it diagnosed properly. It may turn out to be something dangerous like a stripped caliper mounting bracket bolt or something as simple as a chaffed sensor wire.
October 3rd, 2011, 7:09 AM
#14
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That fuse is upstream of the main relay that powers the ignition, fuel, and emission components. It can't get more "essential" than that. As for the wheel speed sensors, each wheel has one. Like I stated, disconnecting one will create a permanent fault and effectively disable the ABS.
Now, I'm surprised that you didn't take it back to the mechanic as soon as the problem was noticed. Or, are you leaving that part out? Anyway, you seem to be going blindly by some noise and ABS warning. Instead of looking for ways to disable something you don't really understand (sorry to be blunt), you should probably take it in and get it diagnosed properly. It may turn out to be something dangerous like a stripped caliper mounting bracket bolt or something as simple as a chaffed sensor wire.
I certainly don't mind you being blunt and you're pretty much on point that I'm "going blindly" through this situation. That MG Midget I mentioned earlier I literally had to rebuild from the ground up, and I knew every nut/bolt and wire in it. But to put it in terminology that today's mechanics can understand it was an "Analog" car and I'm dealing with a "Digital" car now. All my mechanical knowlege counts for nothing.
The mechanic who changed my rotors is a person I've known for 30 years or so. He did the work at cost since my financial situation is dire at this time. I hate to criticize him for doing something since he didn't make any money from it.
I go to his shop just about every morning for a cup of coffee and some conversation and I've been talking about this problem to him. He hasn't made the first
move in saying "let's put it up on the rack and see if I screwed up the sensors.." so I've just been trying to get some help here.
There was a time I would have simply taken the blasted thing to the dealer and let them take care of it but that's impossible now. Wife contracted cancer had to close her business, we had to file bankruptcy and get her on disability. During that time we lived on what savings we had, so now we have NO reserve and I'm trying to get back into the workforce with no luck so far.
Back on track, are you saying that if I remove the fuse the ignition will be disabled? Is there any way you can tell me exactly where under the hood amid all that mess this mysterious fuse box is located? Is it marked? Is it a color. Is it on the wheel wells, on the firewall, located somewhere south of Timbuktu?
Thanks for your continued help and please feel free to be as blunt as necessary as long as there's a little smiley at the end!
Now, I'm surprised that you didn't take it back to the mechanic as soon as the problem was noticed. Or, are you leaving that part out? Anyway, you seem to be going blindly by some noise and ABS warning. Instead of looking for ways to disable something you don't really understand (sorry to be blunt), you should probably take it in and get it diagnosed properly. It may turn out to be something dangerous like a stripped caliper mounting bracket bolt or something as simple as a chaffed sensor wire.
I certainly don't mind you being blunt and you're pretty much on point that I'm "going blindly" through this situation. That MG Midget I mentioned earlier I literally had to rebuild from the ground up, and I knew every nut/bolt and wire in it. But to put it in terminology that today's mechanics can understand it was an "Analog" car and I'm dealing with a "Digital" car now. All my mechanical knowlege counts for nothing.
The mechanic who changed my rotors is a person I've known for 30 years or so. He did the work at cost since my financial situation is dire at this time. I hate to criticize him for doing something since he didn't make any money from it.
I go to his shop just about every morning for a cup of coffee and some conversation and I've been talking about this problem to him. He hasn't made the first
move in saying "let's put it up on the rack and see if I screwed up the sensors.." so I've just been trying to get some help here.
There was a time I would have simply taken the blasted thing to the dealer and let them take care of it but that's impossible now. Wife contracted cancer had to close her business, we had to file bankruptcy and get her on disability. During that time we lived on what savings we had, so now we have NO reserve and I'm trying to get back into the workforce with no luck so far.
Back on track, are you saying that if I remove the fuse the ignition will be disabled? Is there any way you can tell me exactly where under the hood amid all that mess this mysterious fuse box is located? Is it marked? Is it a color. Is it on the wheel wells, on the firewall, located somewhere south of Timbuktu?
Thanks for your continued help and please feel free to be as blunt as necessary as long as there's a little smiley at the end!
October 3rd, 2011, 11:39 AM
#15
The instrument panel (I/P) fuse block is located inside. If you can't find your owner's manual, download a soft copy from Pontiac Owner Manuals - Factory Warranty, features and options, and maintenance explained. I hope you take care of the problem soon since brake malfunctions can potentially become a life-changer.
October 4th, 2011, 7:06 AM
#16
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You have been very patient with me and I appreciate that. As soon as I finish my computer classes for this week and take the wife for her Chemo session, I'll have
all day Friday with no need for the car to go to the Mechanic (need my regular oil change anyway) and
see what we can do about the situation.
Speaking of how important brakes are, on that MG I had, I lost all my brake fluid coming back into Columbus, GA one afternoon! Master cylinder also served the clutch, so it was definitely dicey doing downshifs to slow.
Made it back to Base and no problems!
Steering wheel came off once too, but that's another
story!
Thanks again!
Jay
all day Friday with no need for the car to go to the Mechanic (need my regular oil change anyway) and
see what we can do about the situation.
Speaking of how important brakes are, on that MG I had, I lost all my brake fluid coming back into Columbus, GA one afternoon! Master cylinder also served the clutch, so it was definitely dicey doing downshifs to slow.
Made it back to Base and no problems!
Steering wheel came off once too, but that's another
story!
Thanks again!
Jay
October 4th, 2011, 2:20 PM
#18
Santa is watching guys, so please be nice.
It is the affirmed policy of the management NOT
to recommend altering any vehicle's OEM
brake system without the assistance of a NIASE
Certified brake specialist...
...those who do alter their brakes DO SO AT THEIR OWN
RISK, and can not expect to hold anyone else liable.
IF anybody has difficulty with the large words of that
disclaimer, PM me.
It is the affirmed policy of the management NOT
to recommend altering any vehicle's OEM
brake system without the assistance of a NIASE
Certified brake specialist...
...those who do alter their brakes DO SO AT THEIR OWN
RISK, and can not expect to hold anyone else liable.
IF anybody has difficulty with the large words of that
disclaimer, PM me.
October 5th, 2011, 6:25 AM
#19
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"Santa is watching guys, so please be nice.
It is the affirmed policy of the management NOT
to recommend altering any vehicle's OEM
brake system without the assistance of a NIASE
certified brake specialist...
...those who do alter their brakes DO SO AT THEIR OWN
RISK, and can not expect to hold anyone else liable.
IF anybody has difficulty with the large words of that
disclaimer, PM me."
Jay has no desire for "sticks and switches and pieces of coal" in his Christmas stocking.
NIASE "Certified brake specialist" = 2 year Community College vocational school grad with an IQ of 20, who wears his pants so low you can see his butt crack? No thank you.
Rest assured that, that being said however, Jay is well aware of ALL risks involved in "tinkering" with the brakes on his car, and is MORE THAN FULLY CAPABLE of handling any situation that might arise.
If they, by chance, pull his broken, bleeding, body from the wreckage that was formerly his 2004 Montana you may rest assured he will NOT be moaning "but they said it would be OK on the message forum!"
Jay is an adult. Your concerns are for the past several generations who NEED comptuers on their vehicles to successfully back out of their own driveways (Cameras in the rear? Get serous!) without causing mayhem.
Thanks again for all the help, I'll let you know how it turns out.
<!-- / message -->
It is the affirmed policy of the management NOT
to recommend altering any vehicle's OEM
brake system without the assistance of a NIASE
certified brake specialist...
...those who do alter their brakes DO SO AT THEIR OWN
RISK, and can not expect to hold anyone else liable.
IF anybody has difficulty with the large words of that
disclaimer, PM me."
Jay has no desire for "sticks and switches and pieces of coal" in his Christmas stocking.
NIASE "Certified brake specialist" = 2 year Community College vocational school grad with an IQ of 20, who wears his pants so low you can see his butt crack? No thank you.
Rest assured that, that being said however, Jay is well aware of ALL risks involved in "tinkering" with the brakes on his car, and is MORE THAN FULLY CAPABLE of handling any situation that might arise.
If they, by chance, pull his broken, bleeding, body from the wreckage that was formerly his 2004 Montana you may rest assured he will NOT be moaning "but they said it would be OK on the message forum!"
Jay is an adult. Your concerns are for the past several generations who NEED comptuers on their vehicles to successfully back out of their own driveways (Cameras in the rear? Get serous!) without causing mayhem.
Thanks again for all the help, I'll let you know how it turns out.
<!-- / message -->
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