Head gasket replaced, Car runs terrible. Z24 2.4l
February 2nd, 2012, 6:36 PM
#1
Head gasket replaced, Car runs terrible. Z24 2.4l
To be as accurate as i can be i will explain things in depth. z24 2.4L v4 motor, 2000 cav.
6 months ago the idle started running high, in neutral it was running idle at about 1500 rpms, thought i need new intake manifold cause i had a cracked one and it made it idle high as well. I didnt monkey with it though. 2 weeks ago i did oil change and noticed milkshake in oil, over the last 2 months i have had to constantly put coolant in as it is leaking on the ground on drivers side. Took hoses off of intake manifold TB area and it was a thick milkshake of fluid coming out.
Aside of this car ran great.
5 days ago i started the head gasket job, rough going but i meticulously went over my work and i felt the job to be done perfect. I followed manual directions to a T.
Camshaft timing holes lined up, crankshaft was at 12 oclock TDC.
Upon finishing this job i did everything right and by the book except one thing, i am unaccustomed to this plug wire setup, im used to plugs and wires, this car has a coil pack that covers plugs and bolts on, i installed this incorrectly, i didnt pull the boots off the plugs and attach to coil then drop and bolt, i just dropped it and bolted it.
Car starts, but the motor is shaking like don knotts(very violently).im idling at 1000 rpm, i went for a test drive and i have no good power at all, and my check engine light keeps flashing on and off intermittently, (in this bad state i didnt drive it but about 2 blocks)
Learned about plugs and coil and i pulled it off and reseated the coil pack today perfectly. I expected the car to run like a dream now cause i thought because i installed it wrong perhaps a boot didnt connect well. The coil is on perfect and now the car still runs awefull. It did however run better today than last night.
This is my wifes car and a daily driver of about 70 to 80 miles a day.
If you can give me something to go on id appreciate it. I dont know if i should put new plugs in it, buy a new coil pack, check my timing see if i am off even though i was very meticulous in setting it.
Any help is very much appreciated. Thax in advance.
6 months ago the idle started running high, in neutral it was running idle at about 1500 rpms, thought i need new intake manifold cause i had a cracked one and it made it idle high as well. I didnt monkey with it though. 2 weeks ago i did oil change and noticed milkshake in oil, over the last 2 months i have had to constantly put coolant in as it is leaking on the ground on drivers side. Took hoses off of intake manifold TB area and it was a thick milkshake of fluid coming out.
Aside of this car ran great.
5 days ago i started the head gasket job, rough going but i meticulously went over my work and i felt the job to be done perfect. I followed manual directions to a T.
Camshaft timing holes lined up, crankshaft was at 12 oclock TDC.
Upon finishing this job i did everything right and by the book except one thing, i am unaccustomed to this plug wire setup, im used to plugs and wires, this car has a coil pack that covers plugs and bolts on, i installed this incorrectly, i didnt pull the boots off the plugs and attach to coil then drop and bolt, i just dropped it and bolted it.
Car starts, but the motor is shaking like don knotts(very violently).im idling at 1000 rpm, i went for a test drive and i have no good power at all, and my check engine light keeps flashing on and off intermittently, (in this bad state i didnt drive it but about 2 blocks)
Learned about plugs and coil and i pulled it off and reseated the coil pack today perfectly. I expected the car to run like a dream now cause i thought because i installed it wrong perhaps a boot didnt connect well. The coil is on perfect and now the car still runs awefull. It did however run better today than last night.
This is my wifes car and a daily driver of about 70 to 80 miles a day.
If you can give me something to go on id appreciate it. I dont know if i should put new plugs in it, buy a new coil pack, check my timing see if i am off even though i was very meticulous in setting it.
Any help is very much appreciated. Thax in advance.
February 27th, 2012, 1:48 PM
#3
Well here is an update, im still stranded lol.....
I redid the timing to ensure it was perfect i am confident it is,
I hooked up the scan tool and i am getting Misfire cylinder number one.
I pulled and install 4 brand new plugs, in cyl 1 there was fuel on top of the piston.
Still no go.
I bought a new coil pack installed and still no go.
I am stumped at this point as to what it can be, the car starts and runs, i have driven it but the check engine light flashes and is obviously running on 3 of 4 cylinders.
Just got an ohm meter and i am about to go out and test to see if there is power going to the injector for #1 cylinder.
Question, if there is a problem with the injector will gas still come out?
Im frustrated and i just cant afford putting more money into this car atm, but after doing the head and changing 40 gaskets i dont wanna let it go by the wayside. Any tips would be appreciated.
I redid the timing to ensure it was perfect i am confident it is,
I hooked up the scan tool and i am getting Misfire cylinder number one.
I pulled and install 4 brand new plugs, in cyl 1 there was fuel on top of the piston.
Still no go.
I bought a new coil pack installed and still no go.
I am stumped at this point as to what it can be, the car starts and runs, i have driven it but the check engine light flashes and is obviously running on 3 of 4 cylinders.
Just got an ohm meter and i am about to go out and test to see if there is power going to the injector for #1 cylinder.
Question, if there is a problem with the injector will gas still come out?
Im frustrated and i just cant afford putting more money into this car atm, but after doing the head and changing 40 gaskets i dont wanna let it go by the wayside. Any tips would be appreciated.
February 27th, 2012, 5:01 PM
#5
I did not, but i called autozone and am gonna rent one in the morning. Ill post results even though i have never used one. More studying.
Just got in and went thru the wiring harnes with ohm meter all checked out, tested ohm meter on injectors all was good. Power is there.
Just got in and went thru the wiring harnes with ohm meter all checked out, tested ohm meter on injectors all was good. Power is there.
February 27th, 2012, 8:08 PM
#6
CF Active Member
In actuality, the simplest compression test is as following (it's a comparative test):
Disable ignition or fuel somehow, pulling a fuse will do; open the throttle (for better fill rate so the result is more obvious) and crank it. If one cylinder has lost compression you'll hear the difference.
Disable ignition or fuel somehow, pulling a fuse will do; open the throttle (for better fill rate so the result is more obvious) and crank it. If one cylinder has lost compression you'll hear the difference.
March 1st, 2012, 1:52 PM
#7
Ok gentleman, new update, still not firing on Cylinder #1, here is what i have done since last post, checked all injector with ohm meter, they are good. Checked all the fuel injector wiring connections, all good. went and rented a compression tester, here are the results
Cylinder #1 210 psi
Cylinder #2 210 psi
Cylinder #3 210 psi
Cylinder #4 210 psi
After the first cylinder was checked i thought i was in a nightmare, went to remove the tester and it wouldnt budge, coil on plug setup and was unable to get needle nose pliers in, and this is only hand tight. Spray some wd 40 in there came back a half hour later had a buddy pull on the hose and i put needle nose down as far as i could and voila it broke free. Praise the lord cause that looked like it could have been real bad.
I followed exact compression directions, wot, all things look good.
Next step is i am gonna remove fuel rail turn key over and see if cyl #1 injector sprays.
I have 2 theories at this point, wide open injectore flooding, or my coil pack housing is bad.
Question, if i had a bad ignition control module the motor wouldnt even start right? I had a 3.1 lumina and when the control mod went out the car did nothing.
Question, if i pull the fuel rail and turn the key over, when the fuel pump primes for a few seconds if the injector is bad fuel would flow out of number 1 correct? Or would i be better off just doing a injector switch and see if my misfire changes from cyl 1 to a different cylinder?
Thanks guys i appreciate all the advice.
Cylinder #1 210 psi
Cylinder #2 210 psi
Cylinder #3 210 psi
Cylinder #4 210 psi
After the first cylinder was checked i thought i was in a nightmare, went to remove the tester and it wouldnt budge, coil on plug setup and was unable to get needle nose pliers in, and this is only hand tight. Spray some wd 40 in there came back a half hour later had a buddy pull on the hose and i put needle nose down as far as i could and voila it broke free. Praise the lord cause that looked like it could have been real bad.
I followed exact compression directions, wot, all things look good.
Next step is i am gonna remove fuel rail turn key over and see if cyl #1 injector sprays.
I have 2 theories at this point, wide open injectore flooding, or my coil pack housing is bad.
Question, if i had a bad ignition control module the motor wouldnt even start right? I had a 3.1 lumina and when the control mod went out the car did nothing.
Question, if i pull the fuel rail and turn the key over, when the fuel pump primes for a few seconds if the injector is bad fuel would flow out of number 1 correct? Or would i be better off just doing a injector switch and see if my misfire changes from cyl 1 to a different cylinder?
Thanks guys i appreciate all the advice.
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March 1st, 2012, 4:35 PM
#8
Im tired and done for the day but here is the latest update.
I pulled fuel rail and switched the number 1 injecter and switched it with the number 2 injector and went for a drive. I cleared codes before i left, went on a 2 mile drive and it felt stronger and 2 miles later no codes, still ran ****ty but it was better. Decided to go another 2 miles and no codes. i get to driveway frustrated and revved it up to 3 or 4 grand and voila i got a code finally. however the code is mysterious it says it is a random misfire. Now i am believing that the injectors need replaced. tomorrow i will go to junkyard and get 4 injectors and see what happens.
On a bad note, i am noticing oil leaking. as i looked behind the motor and used my other hand to rev the throttle oil is misting out from behind the timing chain housing, it is misting over the water pump. So even after i get this misfire worked out looks like i need to remove timing chain again and housing, my theory is the gasket that goes between the timing housing and motor is screwed and the timing chain circulating is misting it out. I am so sorry i did this job it aint even funny.
I pulled fuel rail and switched the number 1 injecter and switched it with the number 2 injector and went for a drive. I cleared codes before i left, went on a 2 mile drive and it felt stronger and 2 miles later no codes, still ran ****ty but it was better. Decided to go another 2 miles and no codes. i get to driveway frustrated and revved it up to 3 or 4 grand and voila i got a code finally. however the code is mysterious it says it is a random misfire. Now i am believing that the injectors need replaced. tomorrow i will go to junkyard and get 4 injectors and see what happens.
On a bad note, i am noticing oil leaking. as i looked behind the motor and used my other hand to rev the throttle oil is misting out from behind the timing chain housing, it is misting over the water pump. So even after i get this misfire worked out looks like i need to remove timing chain again and housing, my theory is the gasket that goes between the timing housing and motor is screwed and the timing chain circulating is misting it out. I am so sorry i did this job it aint even funny.
March 4th, 2012, 2:48 PM
#9
UPDATE: CAR IS FIXED AND RUNNING..
After many a hassle and headache and testing in the end it was....Drumrolll...........................The fuel injector.
Thx for all the help gentz....
After many a hassle and headache and testing in the end it was....Drumrolll...........................The fuel injector.
Thx for all the help gentz....
March 29th, 2012, 5:53 AM
#10
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trust me i know your pain. i just finished doing it on my daughter's car. well everything you have explained was my daughter's car, but her's was not the fuel injector, it ended up being a cracked coil housing and bad control module. now i have a oil leak behind the timing housing. to break it all down again is not fun.