Someone tried to steal my '01 Cavalier LS by breaking off the outside of the ignition lock cylinder on the steering column and then jimmying the key slot with a screwdriver. That didn't work for them, but it did disable the car.

I could insert the key, though it was somewhat rough, but could not turn it.

Since I couldn't turn the key to the Run position, I drilled out the cylinder lock button, pulled the lock cylinder, and replaced it with a used cylinder from eBay.

Question #1: I borrowed a copy of the factory service manual, and it says to rotate the key 5 degrees counter-clockwise while inserting the replacement ignition lock cylinder. That made no sense to me, so perhaps someone can explain it.

My starting position was that the ignition actuator was still in the Off position because that's where the no-key procedure leaves it when you pull out the drilled cylinder. But to insert the new cylinder, you have to turn the new key to the Run position to get the lock button to drop. Therefore the actuator has to be rotated into the Run position so the cylinder can slide all the way in. This I did, but the 5-degrees thing is still a mystery. Maybe it's important and I don't know why.

Question #2: I expected to have to do the 10-minute relearn procedure, or maybe the 30-minute relearn procedure, both of which I think can be done without a factory scan tool. But I have done at least 6 cycles of the 10-minute process. The car will crank and occasionally fire for a 1-2 seconds before stalling.

From what I have read, this seems to indicate that the BCM is not receiving a Passlock signal voltage that it likes. So maybe the relearn procedure didn't work, or something more is broken, or the replacement lock cylinder is defective, or .....??

I borrowed an OTC OBD II scanner from Autozone ($150 deposit), which reported no DTC's. I had hoped that it might report some parameters like Passlock Data Voltage and a couple other Passlock parameters, but no success with that.

I can also borrow a Actron CP9190 scanner from them for $500+ in the hope that it might give me better data. Anyone know if it might? (I suppose that's Q #3.)

 

I replaced my key switch assembly and it works fine during the day but at night it cranks and runs for a second or 2 then dies.I was wondering if you fixed yours and how?

 

I didn't replace the "switch," just the "ignition lock cylinder," so your problem may be different.

But see Won't start after ignition lock cylinder replacement and relearn - Chevy Forums for my solution.