Alternator Swap - HELP! 2007 Cobalt
#1
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I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt [not sure what engine but not SS]. I have a pulley that is making a horrid dreadful sound! Today I was on my way to the auto store to pick up a new alternator [diagnosed by dealership as the alternator but $700+labor to swap] and the sounds went away. Well not totally but mostly. Now it sounds like there are pieces getting grinded or something when I drive [instead of being so loud it sounds like it's not shifting when it actually is]. So I purchase the alternator [$185 versus $700] and attempt to swap it. Once removing the air filter box and the plastic cowl type stuff on the top of the engine I find that I need a special tool to release the tensioner pulley. Back to the parts store and rent a tool.
The tool looks like it would fit right in the square hole if the front end of my car were not in the way! What do I need to do to be able to fit the square peg in the square hole to release the tension? I am so frustrated with this but I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to have someone get the belt off for me. The alternator won't be an issue at all to replace if I could just get the tension released! PLEASE HELP!
The tool looks like it would fit right in the square hole if the front end of my car were not in the way! What do I need to do to be able to fit the square peg in the square hole to release the tension? I am so frustrated with this but I really don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to have someone get the belt off for me. The alternator won't be an issue at all to replace if I could just get the tension released! PLEASE HELP!
#2
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Welcome to the forum.
I don't know how it is with the Ecotec on the Cobalt but I usually use a 3/8" breaker bar or short ratchet with a slim head. If you're not quite sure what to do with the tensioner tool, I suggest taking your vehicle and the part to an independent shop and just pay the labor. I'd think there's a real possibility that you may break something or hurt yourself.
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#3
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I understand how to use the tool. It's that the handle is twice as long as it needs to be to have clearance. The tool needs to move another 10th of an inch probably to be able to get it to fit the 3/8 hole and the handle at that point is already up against the cross member that goes over the radiator so it won't move that extra 10th of an inch. We couldn't find a break over bar or ratchet with a slim enough head to be able to fit down in the space. I think a tool for the belt with a shorter handle would work perfect but I can't find one at the parts store.
#4
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Hmm, I didn't think it unreasonable to recommend taking it to an independent shop. They have the know-how and the right tools to make the job easy. I've been there and done that, pride getting in the way. You can really break something if you keep driving it like that. Good luck.
#5
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it's not about pride getting in the way. It's about a shop charging me $155 to do it. I am taking it to City Garage tomorrow to get it done as it is apparent that it is impossible to get to without taking out the motor mount [which is exactly what they told me they have to do to get to it]. I'll buy an Olds from the 60's next time for sure! lol
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