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Chevrolet Equinox
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2005 Chevy Equinox amp bypass

Old March 5th, 2012, 2:25 PM
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Default 2005 Chevy Equinox amp bypass

I have a 05 Equinox, the amp is fried, i was looking for a pre made bypass harness to install under the rear seat. Basically i want a plug that runs from the input of the amp to the output, bypassing the amp completely.

or the worst case scenario, wiring diagrams to build my own, and a place to get the plugs from?

any help would be great, we are riding in silence right now.....
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Old September 18th, 2012, 2:11 PM
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Default 2005 Chevy Equinox amp bypass

This only applies if you want to/already put in a new deck and have to bypass the stock amp , but don't want to pay $150 for a harness(the stock radio does not have an amp, but aftermarket decks do, and 2 amps don't work in succession).

Wiring the radio:
You hard-wire this just like you would any other radio, except one thing: you need to tap into your accessory wire on your ignition or into your fuse box to get any aftermarket radio to turn on. If you don't, it will show that it has power, but no sound will come out(the radio interface is on, but the car doesn't register that). Get an inline fuse and a 10-15 amp fuse for it,(like this, usually only $3 or so and can be found at hardware or automobile stores: http://visforvoltage.org/files/u1786/NewFuseBox.jpg), cut the accessory wire(or tap into the fuse box). The accessory wires on the ignition are brown and orange, I used the brown one. Cut it, strip both ends, twist all 3 wire ends(2 wires total, the inline fuse and the accessory wire, but 3 ends because the accessory wire was cut in half) together with the inline fuse, which will then connect to the accessory wire on the amp. Wrap this, and all other wire connections, TIGHTLY with electrical tape. You should have a working stereo now, except it wont make any sound until you bypass the amp. ( 2 amps don't work in succession).

Bypassing the Amp:

Alright, I'll try my best to explain this. There are 2 plugs that go into the amp. The larger one controls the speakers, the smaller one controls the sub. I wasn't ever able to figure out how to get the sub working. Edit: (
You should only have to unplug the large plug to bypass it. If someone has the chance to try this, please post whether or not it works.) You need to cut off the large plug entirely and strip the wires. The larger plug has an input(smaller wires) and an output(bigger wires). There are half as many big wires(output)as there are small wires(Input). If you cut back the electrical tape(carefully) that surrounds all of the wires to the big plug, you will see that the smaller wires are bundled/coupled up in groups of 2(pos and neg) and that the larger wires are not. One of the colors of the smaller wires corresponds to the color of one of the larger wires. For example, if there is a small green wire and a small brown wire coupled together with electric tape, and there is a green large wire, you would connect the small green and the small brown wire to the large green one to complete the circuit. Match all the coupled small wire pairs to the larger wire that corresponds to one of the small wires colors. Make sure that you disconnect the negative battery cable while you do this, otherwise you could fry speakers. We took the back seat out to do this, just to have more space(I have HUGE hands), but it can probably be done without doing so.

These may come in handy:
http://alarmsellout.com/support/diag...NOX%202005.pdf

Chevy Equinox Radio Wiring Colors:
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fusebox for switched power. The accessory turn-on and amplifier turn-on are controlled by the class 2 serial network.
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the driver side rear seat bottom cushion.
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

Standard radio wiring colors:
<table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="1" width="475"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;" bgcolor="#cccccc">Wire Color</td> <td style="text-align: center;" bgcolor="#cccccc">Wire Function</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Yellow</td> <td>12V Constant / Memory</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Red</td> <td>Switch / Accessory</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Black</td> <td>Ground</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Blue</td> <td>Antenna Remote</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Blue with White Stripe</td> <td>Amplifier Remote Turn-on</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Orange with White Stripe</td> <td>Dash Light Dimmer/Illumination</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Green</td> <td>Left Rear Speaker (+)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Green with Black Stripe</td> <td>Left Rear Speaker (-)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>White</td> <td>Left Front Speaker (+)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>White with Black Stripe</td> <td>Left Front Speaker (-)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Purple</td> <td>Right Rear Speaker (+)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Purple with Black Stripe</td> <td>Right Rear Speaker (-)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Gray</td> <td>Right Front Speaker (+)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Gray with Black Stripe</td> <td>Right Front Speaker (-)</td></tr></tbody></table>

Last edited by Headystylee; October 4th, 2012 at 10:33 PM.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 2:36 AM
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Thank you very much! I will try this out when I get back down to the vehicle. If you have any pictures of the amp wiring under the rear seat, that would be a great help. I understand what you wrote, I just have to get back to the car. (1200 miles away)
If you do have pics, either a post here, or email to [email protected]
Thank you again.
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Old October 4th, 2012, 10:29 PM
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I'm sorry, I don't have any pictures and I did it to a friend's car before he went off to college. I will try and get pictures when he comes back.

A side note about the sub-woofer:

Thinking about it now, you probably don't need to even unplug this(or cut it) from the stock amp. You should only have to unplug the large plug to bypass it. If someone has the chance to try this, post whether or not it works.
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Old October 15th, 2012, 12:14 AM
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I will try this out in the beginning of November. Thank for your help!
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Old October 30th, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Smile By passing the amp in a 2005 equinox

Originally Posted by noxlanding View Post
I will try this out in the beginning of November. Thank for your help!
I saw your post on the Chevrolet Forum regarding bypassing the amp on a 2005 equinox radion and was wondering if you tried it? Any additional help appreciated.
Ralph Schmidtke
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Old October 30th, 2013, 4:04 PM
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Has anybody bypassed the radio amplifier in a 2005 equinox with premium audio successfully ?
Need help.
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Old July 26th, 2014, 9:44 PM
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I changed fuse box and the electrical have the confusion.,, I want know all wairs from the part to fues box...
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Old August 5th, 2014, 10:10 AM
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I'm bumping this thread because I didnt see anyone successfully do this.

The best description above says that of the two connectors to the amp (located under the rear seat) the larger connector has the speaker inputs and that there is one large wire and two small wires for each speaker. He says to connect both smaller wires with the larger wire where one of the two smaller wires matches the color of the larger wire (ie. larger = drk green, smallers = drk green and somethign else). This should bypass the amp.

Q1: is the other connector (amp power etc) left in place?

Q2: is it necessary to do anything with the amp control and amp sensor wires? (i think these are purple and yellow)?

Q3: should each speaker be able to be bypassed individually such that I can bypass just one speaker and know that im doing it right?

Q4: Currently my system is making no music and is creating cracking even with the radio and car shut off. Should my factory head unit be able to make some music if i bypass just one speaker? (im trying to be sure ive got the method right before i do all of them)....

Q5: I ordered a bypass kit (metra 70-2052). It comes with 214ft of cable and would appear to me like they intend you to rerun the bypass wires back to the HU? any thoughts? any instructions on the use of this thing would be great...i do have an aftermarket pioneer id like to put in but i would settle for functioning stock unit.


also i believe i have the full wiring diagram if anyone wants it but i dont know how to post it so PM me if you want it.
Thanks,

Last edited by sdshipe; August 5th, 2014 at 10:54 AM.
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Old August 5th, 2014, 1:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sdshipe View Post
I'm bumping this thread because I didnt see anyone successfully do this.

The best description above says that of the two connectors to the amp (located under the rear seat) the larger connector has the speaker inputs and that there is one large wire and two small wires for each speaker. He says to connect both smaller wires with the larger wire where one of the two smaller wires matches the color of the larger wire (ie. larger = drk green, smallers = drk green and somethign else). This should bypass the amp.

Q1: is the other connector (amp power etc) left in place?
I would recommend unplugging it and removing the corresponding fuse.

Q2: is it necessary to do anything with the amp control and amp sensor wires? (i think these are purple and yellow)?
You should disconnect these wires and tape them off. One of these wires (when connected to the factory amp) tells the factory radio to output a low/preamp level signal. The factory radio outputs a high/speaker level signal when this wire is not connected to anything.

Q3: should each speaker be able to be bypassed individually such that I can bypass just one speaker and know that im doing it right?
Yes.

Q4: Currently my system is making no music and is creating cracking even with the radio and car shut off. Should my factory head unit be able to make some music if i bypass just one speaker? (im trying to be sure ive got the method right before i do all of them)....
Yes, as along as the answer to Q2 is completed first.

Q5: I ordered a bypass kit (metra 70-2052). It comes with 214ft of cable and would appear to me like they intend you to rerun the bypass wires back to the HU? any thoughts? any instructions on the use of this thing would be great...i do have an aftermarket pioneer id like to put in but i would settle for functioning stock unit.
One other member has installed this harness (view thread here). This bypass kit has been discontinued by Metra for a few years. Most likely because people figured out that an easier solution is to just simply connect the amp input wires (which go to factory radio) to the amp output wires (which go to the speakers) as I suggested in the linked thread. This also works for installing an aftermarket radio.

also i believe i have the full wiring diagram if anyone wants it but i dont know how to post it so PM me if you want it.
Thanks,
See answers in bold above.

Last edited by ruley73; August 5th, 2014 at 1:54 PM.
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