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Coolant Bleeder valve on 2006 Equinox

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Old June 23rd, 2022, 4:34 PM
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Default Coolant Bleeder valve on 2006 Equinox

I broke off the top of the coolant bleeder valve on my 2006 Equinox with the 3.4L engine. The part is NLA from GM and I can't seem to find any aftermarket replacement. I can't be the only one with this problem. Has anyone found a replacement other than the junk yard or some other solution? Thanks.
Old June 24th, 2022, 7:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Jidosha
I broke off the top of the coolant bleeder valve on my 2006 Equinox with the 3.4L engine. The part is NLA from GM and I can't seem to find any aftermarket replacement. I can't be the only one with this problem. Has anyone found a replacement other than the junk yard or some other solution? Thanks.
Replace the whole fitting. Dorman p/n 626-530 is a direct replacement for the OEM fitting (GM p/n 12582446). It's only $18 on Amazon right now. A local auto parts store might have one in stock for around $25.
Old June 26th, 2022, 1:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ruley73
Replace the whole fitting. Dorman p/n 626-530 is a direct replacement for the OEM fitting (GM p/n 12582446). It's only $18 on Amazon right now. A local auto parts store might have one in stock for around $25.
Thanks for the tip. I ordered it - hope it works out. I had been focused on finding just the valve.
Old June 27th, 2022, 5:37 AM
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Just FYI on options if a replacement can’t be located:

1) You can also crack loose the valve fitting to bleed the system. Loosening the fitting a couple of turns provides the same result by allowing the air to bleed out through the threads.

2) The fitting and valve screw are just brass, and assuming it’s removed without excessive damage, could easily be drilled and tapped for a replacement screw of just about any thread pitch.
Old June 27th, 2022, 1:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Gumby22
Just FYI on options if a replacement can’t be located:

1) You can also crack loose the valve fitting to bleed the system. Loosening the fitting a couple of turns provides the same result by allowing the air to bleed out through the threads.

2) The fitting and valve screw are just brass, and assuming it’s removed without excessive damage, could easily be drilled and tapped for a replacement screw of just about any thread pitch.
Thanks. I knew that was an option, but really wanted a proper bleeder set up so the Dorman part swap looked to be the most cost effective. Will be doing it tomorrow.
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