So my Equinox has been in the car shop every year for past 5 years. I change the oil, tires and battery when needed. This is beyond that. Here are the repairs during the past five years:

• All spark plugs and wires
• Timing belt
• Serpentine belt
• Sealed a leaky hose
• Oxygen sensor replacement
• Throttle body sensor replacement
• 2 wheel bearings were replaced

I completely understand that ongoing maintenance is part of the gig of owning a car. I'm really not complaining just looking for some insight. Right now I'm at 100k (I know that's not much compared to some) and there's some major rust developing under the diver and passenger doors. If you own an 07ish Equinox, about how many miles do you have on it and am I ignorant for thinking that I should be able to put another 50 - 75k on mine? Thanks!

 

It will run for another 75k imo
hopefully the heater temp blend door won't break...a common fault item.
3.4 engine doesn't have a timing belt.
consider doing a trans fluid exchange. It requires T IV fluid...make sure they don't put dexron in it.

 

If you live in the rust belt, I think maybe 3-4 more years or 50k miles would be realistic - 75k miles or more would be a stretch unless you travel a lot. If it weren't for rust, it would last much longer IMO. The 3.4L engine and Aisin 5-speed transaxle is arguably the most reliable engine/trans combo GM used within the last 20 years IMO.

We purchased our 2007 Equinox as a GM Certified Pre-Owned vehicle with 26K miles on it in October 2008. It currently has just under 195K miles on it. It was our main vehicle and was regularly driven on 300 mile (one way) trips multiple times every year to visit family until we purchased a Chrysler Pacifica in November 2018. It's now a secondary vehicle that's used primarily for short trips to transport kids to school/daycare/other appts, but I'd still trust it to take me anywhere I need to go. I keep a detailed, hand-written repair log for my own records.

The list below consists of the parts I've replaced that I would NOT consider regular maintenance items:

- EGR valve (twice - first time 2/2011 @ 62k miles, second time 10/2018 @189k miles)
- rear wiper motor (8/2011 @ 68k miles)
- transmission cooler line assembly (5/2015 @124k miles)
- ignition switch (4/2016 @140k miles)
- ambient light sensor (for automatic headlamps/DRL 4/2016 @ 140k miles)
- front right engine mount (4/2016 @ 140k miles)
- fuel cap (4/2016 @ 140k miles)
- EGR inlet tube (broke it myself while replacing EGR valve the second time)
- front right CV axle (torn outer boot, axle itself was fine 2/2018 @ 177k miles)
- both front brake hoses (10/2019 @ 194k miles)

Items replaced once as preventative/necessary maintenance:
- spark plugs & wires
- serpentine belt, tensioner, and all 3 idler pulleys
- both oxygen sensors
- coolant (currently overdue for replacement)
- front struts & upper mounts
- both liftgate supports
- park brake shoes & related hardware
- both headlamp assemblies (faded & yellowed, refinish only lasted a year)
- all four wheel bearing/hub assemblies (rear right & front right have been replaced twice)
- all four TPMS sensors

Other noteworthy observations:
- all the brake dust shields are rusting to pieces
- two of the three exhaust manifold heat shields are missing/rusted off
- the original rear shocks are still on it and work good, but look like they may succumb to rust soon
- the front main seal has a slow leak
- the exhaust system is still all original
- currently on 32nd oil change, 5th engine air filter, 3rd cabin air filter, 4th set of tires, 3rd battery, and 3rd set of brake pads & rotors (both front and rear)
- many rubber chassis bushings are cracked and would probably be replaced if this were still our primary vehicle.
- I've had a new thermostat and water pump sitting in the garage for over two years, but haven't installed them yet. I originally planned to install both parts as preventative maintenance and am amazed neither part has failed yet.
- I've performed 32 oil changes on it. Until about 80k miles, I exclusively used regular Quaker State 5w30 oil and SuperTech (Walmart) ST3387A oil filters. After 80k miles I always used full synthetic 5w30 oil (no particular brand - whatever was cheapest) along with a Fram TG3387A filter. I've never replaced the oil drain plug gasket.

I'm hoping for another 3-4 years of good use out of ours before it gives up the ghost, but wouldn't be surprised if it died sooner.

 

Thanks and you're right about the timing belt - I was thinking of a belt that needed to be replaced on my older cavalier. At about what miles should I do the trans fluid exchange? Not familiar with the dexron.

 

I would change the trans fluid immediately. The Aisin transaxle uses Toyota T-IV (not Dexron VI) fluid. Most Toyota dealerships keep it in stock for around $6/qt.

 

Appreciate the detailed notes - this is helpful. I bought the 07 Equinox brand new in in early 08. The vehicle has encountered 10+ years of Chicago winters which doesn't help my rust issue. I'm hoping you're right w/3-4 more years.

 

Wonder if you've ever had this issue? So I just had my 07 Equinox battery and writes replaced two weeks ago. I reported to the dealership that my car takes an extra long time to turn-over before actually starting. Sometimes it takes 8-10 cranks, but this happens inconsistently. The dealer wasn't able to replicate the issue. So I started keeping track of when it takes long cranks (8+) compared to short (4 or less). Here's what I found:

• Short cranks happen when the car is sitting for more 4 hours.
• Long cranks consistently happen when the car is sitting for less 1 1/2 hours.

The car always eventually starts, but it's concerning since sometimes I'm sitting there for a good 10 seconds waiting for the car to start. Any suggestions?

 

if the check engine light is not on; check for fuel pressure leakdown. if the injectors leakdown it creates a flood condition.

 

I've never had this problem. If the check engine light's not on, I agree with tech2's suggestion regarding the fuel injectors. Fuel pressure is not monitored by the ECM on this vehicle so fuel pressure/delivery issues won't trigger any DTCs unless the condition causes a misfire or excessive rich/lean mixture as observed by the oxygen sensor.

Other possibilities I can think of would be a dirty MAF sensor, gummed up throttlebody or bad coolant temp sensor. A telltale sign of a bad coolant temp sensor is if the gauge is grossly inaccurate during a cold start. A dirty MAF sensor or bad coolant temp sensor usually triggers DTCs, but not always.

 

Ok. I'll take a look at the sensors and throttle body. Thanks!