dberladyn

Winter is coming I have no Defrost, at least no Fan to blow the Defrost.

• Fuses are Good.
  

What's next? I have no multimeter, broke it, lost it or who knows what happened to it? I almost bought a new one, but I am picky with tools and I want to invest something I want, rather than simply need. What and how do I troubleshoot the blower fan? I am expecting the problem to be the Resistor. Apparently they were under engineered for a few years, the heat sinks too small and they burn out. How do I test that? How do I test tor a problem? A piece of wire from the battery? Maybe with a test light?

dberladyn

From the other thread, I was told to hit the blower motor with a Hammer and it worked. I have no idea exactly how to oil the bushings, but that makes sense. It was operating intermittently before it stopped completely. The bushings or the bearings probably have dried out. It sat on a lot for year before I bought it, then it sat again for another year before now. How do I oil the bushings properly?

I am going to remove it and attempt to oil front and back.

dberladyn

Already rusting. I sprayed it thoroughly with JB80 through the drip hole. Then I put White Lithium Grease on the Armature.



White Lithium Grease on the rear bearing.



I am not sure what that white panel is for. Is it a door for Air Recirculation? It's very stiff. Doing this gave me an idea. A guy could put a sponge in the duct work here, run a tube to it from a fragrance jar, even going as far as adding a windshield washer pump and a button would be worth it. The vehicle would always smell good.



You can see the heater core here.

dberladyn

That White Lithium Grease is the best stuff I ever bought. I used that on everything that needs lubricant. It works great. The Cabin is going to Stink like Oil for a Long Time.

StanVan

I don't know about the Express, but I had a 2000 Astro that the resistor was bullet proof. I never dug into why it was happening, but the connector at the resistor melted 2 times. I stopped it from melting by not using the fan on high.

mountainmanjoe

Do not use WD40 or any other kind of lube-in-can product. It will just drive out whatever oil is left.
Do not get lube on those copper commutator bars.

The bushing(s) will be pressed into the motor housing. There should be one the shaft output side, and maybe one on the back too. Find a way to dunk it in some thinner motor oil. It needs to be submerged for a while, and some heat wouldn't hurt. I can't give you a step by step, you'll have to get creative. The motor will definitely need to come out.
This may or may not be worth your trouble. A new one will be $30-$50.

StanVan

Yeah, WD is not oil. It does do a good job of cleaning out old burnt oil, but only if you're doing a full disassembly. And it will clean the copper commutator and brushes.

dberladyn

I had a feeling people would tell me such things. I am going to leave it. It's obviously an accessible, replaceable part for a reason. If I find the energy, maybe I'll take back out, take it apart, and boil it on oil on the stove for a night. Truthfully, with the rust and the fact it's already been a problem and the fact I have so many things to deal with, I just don't care. It has NOT stuttered since I have done this. If it dies before winter is through then... my bad, after that at this moment, I don't care. By Spring or Summer, if I half a brain I should find the desire to do something with it for a project.

Thanks for the knowledge, the corrections and the advice.

mountainmanjoe

oil+stove+boiling+unattended sounds like a really bad idea. I just meant gently heat up the bushing and the oil before you dunk it in to help it soak. And keep it inside your heated house rather than outside.

Running the motor this way will burn out the speed control resistors and you will have a new problem on your hands.

mountainmanjoe

Re-oiling sintered bronze bushings.