Best up grades done
#731
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High Idle issue
Just some updates to the findings of the HIGH IDLE issue and STAN... You dont like my Grill.. lol.
so I have inspected the wires.. they seem to be fine... with no signs that they are the culprit... ( NO ) I have not
continuity tested them... just dont seem that they are the problem .. hope that does not come back to bite me...
we will see... so the next thing I thought about was the I.A.C motor.. ( or ) VALVE.. which ever part store you call lol
CANNOT get this part.. they say that vehicle does not have one ????? ( I ask ) what the hell am I looking at then...??
they say bring the vehicle up here I will see... LMAO.... ok I am going to drive my van thats at 2500 rmp idle up there
AAAAHHHHH NO STUPID.. lol
so I wait and call local dealer that I have parts account with... hey JAY.. whats going on ... what I am looking at here
HE SAYS... " its an I.A.C. Valve.. oh ok.. whats the price.. I ask... >????? aaahhh your not going to like this he says..
ohhhh why is that.. cause you have to buy the entire valve body.. and it lists like 634.27
ROFLMAO... I was... ( now ) looking at the pics I have already taking the part off ... inspected it and reinstalled it....
its electric.. who knows if its bad.. sooo I am moving on to 1 more culprit.. ( T.P.S. ) it will be ready for me to
pick up around noon... coming from across town .... and When I install I will give yet another update...
I sure hope its not the Valve body I.A.C. motor... cause I will make a trip to the Junk Yard of my buddies to scavenge
one... before I spend that kind of money.... on something so stupid that GM didnt want the gerneral auto part stores to carry.
that has got to be the craziest thing I have come across yet on this van....
so I have inspected the wires.. they seem to be fine... with no signs that they are the culprit... ( NO ) I have not
continuity tested them... just dont seem that they are the problem .. hope that does not come back to bite me...
we will see... so the next thing I thought about was the I.A.C motor.. ( or ) VALVE.. which ever part store you call lol
CANNOT get this part.. they say that vehicle does not have one ????? ( I ask ) what the hell am I looking at then...??
they say bring the vehicle up here I will see... LMAO.... ok I am going to drive my van thats at 2500 rmp idle up there
AAAAHHHHH NO STUPID.. lol
so I wait and call local dealer that I have parts account with... hey JAY.. whats going on ... what I am looking at here
HE SAYS... " its an I.A.C. Valve.. oh ok.. whats the price.. I ask... >????? aaahhh your not going to like this he says..
ohhhh why is that.. cause you have to buy the entire valve body.. and it lists like 634.27
ROFLMAO... I was... ( now ) looking at the pics I have already taking the part off ... inspected it and reinstalled it....
its electric.. who knows if its bad.. sooo I am moving on to 1 more culprit.. ( T.P.S. ) it will be ready for me to
pick up around noon... coming from across town .... and When I install I will give yet another update...
I sure hope its not the Valve body I.A.C. motor... cause I will make a trip to the Junk Yard of my buddies to scavenge
one... before I spend that kind of money.... on something so stupid that GM didnt want the gerneral auto part stores to carry.
that has got to be the craziest thing I have come across yet on this van....
#732
I've heard of some vehicles idling high in order to raise the catalytic converter temperature. (emissions thing).
Maybe take a peek at all the exhaust sensors.
Maybe take a peek at all the exhaust sensors.
#733
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Chevy Express Van High RPM at Idle
Hows it going
Mountainmanjoe
I picked up the New TPS sensor .... removed the Old one... and I would say
this is the same TPS sensor ( brand ) has the same numbers on the out side along
with the BLUE O-RING... the same.. Autozone.... brand..... any ways... it fixed the
problem... I will say this is the first time I had a TPS sensor to act this way.
I am however thinking about going ahead and ordering the harness for both
I.A,C and T.P.S sensors. mine although are not broken they are hard and brittle ....
so I would say it would be good preventive maintenance.
Mountainmanjoe
I picked up the New TPS sensor .... removed the Old one... and I would say
this is the same TPS sensor ( brand ) has the same numbers on the out side along
with the BLUE O-RING... the same.. Autozone.... brand..... any ways... it fixed the
problem... I will say this is the first time I had a TPS sensor to act this way.
I am however thinking about going ahead and ordering the harness for both
I.A,C and T.P.S sensors. mine although are not broken they are hard and brittle ....
so I would say it would be good preventive maintenance.
#735
reason #1: CAFE (no not where you get coffee)
#2: the old school way needed constant maintenance/tuning
#2: the old school way needed constant maintenance/tuning
#736
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I get why we need emissions stuff, but what I'm talking about more about cluttering up stuff. Before we had "fly by wire" throttle, we had a simple throttle cable. Very little to go wrong. And virtually no maintenance. Another example would be turn signals. We had a simple current sensitive relay, that as a bonus, made a slight clicking sound to give an audible to the driver. If it went bad, or you added a trailer, you changed it out, inexpensively. Today, you have a dedicated circuit board (not cheap to replace), that has no relay to speak of, but has the electronics to send that clicking sound through the drivers side door speaker. And to add to the confusion, it's name is nothing that infers to what it even does. And the fuses carry that same, misleading name. What part of "body control module" indicates that it's for the turn signal? The only bonus is that the BCM does take the added current of trailer lighting, but if for some reason you wanted LED bulbs, that board won't handle less current, requiring added resistors. If you wanted LEDs on the older vehicles, there are relays that aren't current sensitive for just that purpose.
"Steps off soapbox"
"Steps off soapbox"
#737
Yeah it seems that the BCM has gradually taken on more and more responsibility in vehicles, centralizing all the functions not involved in propelling the vehicle. In theory that should improve reliability. Did your BCM fail? I remember having to replace relays.
I haven't had any issues putting in LEDs. Have you?
They had to do away with the cable which directly connects the pedal to the throttle, to add things like improved cruise control, traction, and stability control. I like those things.
Yes, engine systems are more complex now. But they can also extract twice as much horsepower out of the same size engine than the old school way.
As for maintenance, ask any mechanic how much more work it used to take to keep an engine running smoothly and reliably.
The real problem, if you ask me, is the workmanship that goes into building cars these days.
I haven't had any issues putting in LEDs. Have you?
They had to do away with the cable which directly connects the pedal to the throttle, to add things like improved cruise control, traction, and stability control. I like those things.
Yes, engine systems are more complex now. But they can also extract twice as much horsepower out of the same size engine than the old school way.
As for maintenance, ask any mechanic how much more work it used to take to keep an engine running smoothly and reliably.
The real problem, if you ask me, is the workmanship that goes into building cars these days.
#738
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I did have trouble, to the point where I went back to incandescent. But only because I didn't want to install the resistors. Just putting in the rears, the flashing rate doubled, like a burned out bulb would in the old days. I figured I could swap out the relay for a non current sensitive one, and learned about the BCM.
And also, why did they have to do away with the 1156/57 bulbs? The 3057s can be put in backwards. Makes no sense.
And also, why did they have to do away with the 1156/57 bulbs? The 3057s can be put in backwards. Makes no sense.
#739
Oh you mean exterior lamps. I only put LEDs inside. I leave incandescents on the outside because the warmth melts the snow.
Anyway, didn't relays rely on the heavy current for their switching frequency? I seem to remember that when bulbs burned out, the relays in the turn signal would click faster. Presumably, the low LEDs would quicken the pace as well.
Good quality LED bulbs have diode bridges in them, allowing them to be connected in any polarity.
Also, even with resistors, the LEDs should consume less energy.
Anyway, didn't relays rely on the heavy current for their switching frequency? I seem to remember that when bulbs burned out, the relays in the turn signal would click faster. Presumably, the low LEDs would quicken the pace as well.
Good quality LED bulbs have diode bridges in them, allowing them to be connected in any polarity.
Also, even with resistors, the LEDs should consume less energy.
#740
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Yes, relays were current sensitive like that. And the BCM is the opposite. With a relay, more current drain (trailer lights) made them flesh faster. A BCM handles more current just fine, but less current drain (LEDs) make it flash faster. I remember flashing stopped when a bulb burned out.
I did the back up lights outside, and did the map lights in the front. I bought a blue one by mistake, but it looked cool, so I got a second one, and put them both above the bed in the back. I'm adding some additional LED lighting soon, and as soon as I get pics, I'll post them.
I did the back up lights outside, and did the map lights in the front. I bought a blue one by mistake, but it looked cool, so I got a second one, and put them both above the bed in the back. I'm adding some additional LED lighting soon, and as soon as I get pics, I'll post them.
Last edited by StanVan; May 20th, 2018 at 8:41 PM.