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Whistling noise during right hand turn?

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Old July 31st, 2017, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by StanVan
I've never been a fan of turning discs or drums. It is done with a slight spiral cut, and pads or shoes will wear out sooner. I just got my Express, but I had an Astro, and still have an Equinox, and discs are somewhat cheap.

Arlington. I belong to too many forums, and never had any other members this close to me.
I think the cross-hatch machining is done to set or break in the new pads, and it is there for that reason. I'm not a fan of turning rotors either but some people don't have the extra money for the new rotors. I've read where people have put new rotors on a lathe and some are not true. Just my $.02.
Old July 31st, 2017, 11:44 PM
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The bottom line is that a rough surface on the disc will shorten pad life. As for the cost difference, my Astro discs were like $29.XX(RockAuto), and I believe turning is $25.00.
Old August 1st, 2017, 9:41 AM
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Default Whistling noise during right hand turn?

Originally Posted by Twscarp
Did you change the wheel bearings? If your brake pads are worn to 1/8" of material, I would replace them too, can't hurt. You might have to get the rotors turned (if there is enough thickness), or I would recommend new rotors also.
No I have not changed the wheel bearings. I am not yet convinced the bearings are the source of the noise.
The discussion about wheel bearings came up because I was trying to determine if they were serviceable due to the maintenance schedule in the repair manual that has been judged bogus.

The noise does not happen when I brake so I do not understand how the rotors are now implicated?
Old August 2nd, 2017, 1:30 AM
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We probably just got off topic. But you should be aware that the wear indicator can make noise when the brakes aren't engaged.

There are really only two things it could be, in my mind. Wheel bearings or brakes. You can probably rule out the brakes because you've visually checked them, and are 1/8" from replacement time. In looking at the parts pictures others have posted here, I noticed a sensor(probably for the ABS). What if this sensor has come loose and in a right turn, it somehow makes contact with something rotating? It may seem far fetched, but there aren't too many things there that rotate. There is one other possibility, and that's even sketchier. What if it's the shock? What if when the weight is shifted to the left during a right turn, and it hits some sort of sweet spot where it squeaks or squeals?

I can't speak for the others who have weighed in on your problem, but I'm not a professional mechanic. I have done a lot of my own work in my 60 years, so I've seen things that defy logic, so you can see how I get to these conclusions. I've been wrong before, and I'll be wrong again. There's probably a 50% chance I'm wrong here. I just hope I've given you something to think about. If you want to give up, I suggest C&C Garage in Vienna. Good people, good mechanics, and good reviews on Yelp.
Old August 2nd, 2017, 1:20 PM
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Default Whistling may be something stuck on inside brake pad (?) .

StanVan,

I finally jacked the van and pulled the wheel to recheck the bearings and brake pads.
The only movement in the wheel is in the steering.
- The wheel does not spin freely. So I need to pull the other side and confirm this is residual pressure from the caliper.
The pads have approx. 1/4" left on both inside and outside.

Nothing wrong ... BUT

As I peer into every crevice with a flashlight I see a nub inside, on the top inside of the inside pad, between the pad and rotor, at the very edge of where the rotor wears. It is not making a mark on the rotor. See picture attached ... the nub is about at the point of the white arrow.
It is about the size of a broken off point of a pencil.
It does not look like the wear warning bar (to the right of the arrow), which I can see just at the edge of the caliper body.
I found a replacement pair of front pads under the front seat when I bought the van. There is nothing on these that looks like it could be bent out to make this nub ... but then not all pads are equal.

I reached in with a metal rule and whatever it is feels hard and fixed in place.
I set the metal rule on it and gave it a light tap with a hammer. It did not budge.

I suppose I need to pull the brake pads out now to see what this is to remove it.
Any tips on replacing brake pads?
Attached Thumbnails Whistling noise during right hand turn?-p8020551.jpg  
Old August 2nd, 2017, 1:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tbb2
StanVan,

I finally jacked the van and pulled the wheel to recheck the bearings and brake pads.
The only movement in the wheel is in the steering.
- The wheel does not spin freely. So I need to pull the other side and confirm this is residual pressure from the caliper.
The pads have approx. 1/4" left on both inside and outside.

Nothing wrong ... BUT

As I peer into every crevice with a flashlight I see a nub inside, on the top inside of the inside pad, between the pad and rotor, at the very edge of where the rotor wears. It is not making a mark on the rotor. See picture attached ... the nub is about at the point of the white arrow.
It is about the size of a broken off point of a pencil.
It does not look like the wear warning bar (to the right of the arrow), which I can see just at the edge of the caliper body.
I found a replacement pair of front pads under the front seat when I bought the van. There is nothing on these that looks like it could be bent out to make this nub ... but then not all pads are equal.

I reached in with a metal rule and whatever it is feels hard and fixed in place.
I set the metal rule on it and gave it a light tap with a hammer. It did not budge.

I suppose I need to pull the brake pads out now to see what this is to remove it.
Any tips on replacing brake pads?
Follow this video, StanVan notice the Blanchard grind on the rotors, completely normal for setting and breaking in the brake pads, and of course an insignificant amount of brake pad will be worn off.

Old August 3rd, 2017, 9:59 PM
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Truthfully, I've not done brakes on an Express(yet). But you're going to have to retract the piston(s). I use a small bar clamp. If there are two pistons, I use a small wrench(or other metal piece that fit over both pistons) to press both in at the same time. Considering how close we are, I'd offer to help, but I have absolutely no time. I've sold my house, and need to find another, and my Daughter just bought her first home, and because I just got this moose of a van, I got "volunteered" to help. It's going to be a long weekend.

As for the nub, it has to make contact to make a noise, so replacing them will solve that. As for the bearings, if they were bad in the common way(***** or rollers have worn to allow loose fit), you'd see t play when you check as you have. And the noise would sound like grinding. The nub thing would be more likely to make the noise you describe. The nub sounds like the most likely source of this noise. Good luck, and please keep us apprised of your outcome.
Old August 4th, 2017, 9:00 AM
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Twscarp,
Thanks for the video link. I see a breaker bar is standard practice.

StanVan,
Thanks for the offer of help. I do not think we could get two of us in the wheel well anyway.
------------------
Having focused on this numb it strikes me that, if it rubs turning to the right, why in the world would it not rub when braking?

Looking at the steering linkage it is all solid bars and greased joints. Nothing I can see that would whistle or squeal ... especially turning right only and associated with the wheel turning.

I suppose I will not know until I have removed the caliper and gotten a closer look.
Old August 4th, 2017, 3:25 PM
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I'm just thinking a second set of eyes. Besides, I don't know you well enough to share a wheel well with you




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