Don89G30

Please link any youtube video about working on this vehicle. I have the Haynes online manual, and I have watched a lot of videos and read a lot of forums, so I am just asking for help as a general shout out to anyone that has the knowledge to point me in the right direction.

Here is a list of things that I am doing on my vehicle:

I need to replace the 16.5 x 8, 8 lug 6.5 non-coined J beed wheels and tires to standard 16" inch. I have a dually so I am replacing 7 including the spare...

At start-up, the vehicle blows a lot of white smoke. While driving it will stall when decelerating back to idle at a stoplight. Anytime I slow down I shift it into neutral to keep the RPMs from falling. To climb any hill I have to manually shift the automatic transmission to second and first, otherwise, it won't shift out of the higher automatic gears, and it will struggle, stall, etc.

I want to check all the vacuum lines, inspect replace the EGR, Thermostat, Coolant Temp Sensor, Spark plugs...and I have to replace the right exhaust manifold...It fails emissions on low idle.

So, I have done some research, study, etc...but when I get to the doghouse I sometimes don't know what I am looking at, and I would like to know all the valves, sensor, hoses, vacuum lines and wires before I start. Point me to some sources if you have time, appreciate your help.

I would love a step-by-step walkthrough video, from the doghouse, under the hood, and under the vehicle )



This is a great diagram

Don89G30

This is the best video I have found on replacing the heater core and removing the dashboard and other access panels:

Don89G30

Good video for changing transmission filter and transmission fluid

Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (approx. 7 qts...)

William Kisselstein

Some white steam at startup is normal.

Might try changing the MAP sensor, I had one down on power on hills and swapped that out and it solved the issues.

Don89G30

Thanks William,

Right! My thoughts are first to replace the manifold exhaust gasket (passenger side), EGR valve, coolant temperature sensor, thermostat, Idle air control valve, spark plugs, and wires. I don't know how important it is to change out the distributor cap or the coil while doing the wires and plugs. Money is an object, any thoughts? Before doing the MAP, I really want to make sure I don't have vacuum leaks. I am trying to figure out if I need to purchase the "mighty vac" to go through the vacuum lines or just use carburetor fluid. Right now it is idling rough, so I don't think I can pick through the vacuum with fluid. I have to do a brake bleed, so I am leaning towards the mighty vac. Another concern is what jack stand ton weight I should buy for a 1 ton dually motorhome. The rule of thumb, I understand is that the stands should be rated to hold twice the weight of the vehicle. I assume I need 6 ton jack stands. Thanks for your input.

Gizmo70

Hi don, we have a 88 G30 also, as far as wheels/tires go, call around to some salvage yards and ask for 16” Chevy dually wheels for 85- 2000 1 ton truck. That’s how I got ours. as far as tires we bought Goodyear Wrangler Fortitude HT 215/85R16. The tires are 4” taller then the stock 8.00x16.5 tires. We gained some ground clearance plus the 16” wheels/ tires look better also. I ended up sanding down the wheels and painting them black.

William Kisselstein

These things are old enough you should be able to hit a you pull yard and find something marked R/D and yank a bunch of stuff off it to swap onto yours. When you solve the problem you can then buy new parts if you want.

Cap and rotor change if they're worn, corroded, cracked.

2 ton stands are going to work, unless you intend to balance it on one stand somewhere under the middle.

I found on my G20 vans that you can easily gravity bleed these due to how much higher the master is in relation to say a car or pickup; it helps to raise the front somewhat too by parking on an incline or even just jacking it up. I can't imagine the 1-ton is too much different. The later ones with the ABS unit though require either vacuum or pressure to bleed.

Don89G30

Great! I appreciate knowing the range of years.

Don89G30

Thanks for the advice.

Gizmo70

I will try and help out as much as I can. I’m still learning (thou, lol )..We are completely remolding ours on the inside and rebuilding the outside. So far we put a whole new front end on ( moog parts)..Front rotors/ pads, new leaf springs, shocks all the way around, new drums, rear pads, finished upped on rebuilding carb last night. Good luck my friend. Expect to pay anywhere between 35-60 bucks pc for wheels.