Hi i just solved my van from a bad collapse.
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After replacing the fuel pump in tank, what are some possible things to examine?

I have changed my fuel pump three times in five years, the most recently only lasted six months. Filter and relay were too late, it was buzzing. After i swapped it out and tightened internal connectors and fixed some cracked wires leading there it didn't run better, i mean yes but no. It got fuel... to run badly, which was progress.

Over the summer i did the EGR and alternator and water pump and and tbi base gasket and doing plugs i realized it's all now 180 out, idk when that happened but ok sure why not. I reacided the battery and ran a desulfator (with the battery full unplugged).

First i found some vacuum leaks, just my PCV line so got new line. Then decided to just start grounding stuff I've replaced that helped in times past - so i have three extra wires now leaving the doghouse, i grounded the CTS on top of the motor for the computer, also the TPS is grounded now and also the MAP, all just to a bolt by my feet for now. I know this may affect ohms but - ground affected it worse so ok. I want to ground my ICM to it's own thing but that's a lot of metallurgy and math. Investigated my IAC and saw broken wires so that is tight now.

Anyways, i clean my battery, i did a battery yank test and disconnected the cables while it idled, stays running so alt is fine, but my neg to frame cable was very loose at frame jointish - tightened the crimp with vice grips and that solved hesitating / stumbling / surging / hunting/ sputtering / stalling / arguing / dying. Idk how many fkn parts i threw i just needed to tighten this lol fml 😅💦 bad ground omg kms

One of my rear brake lines is wet, i probably smashed it with the gas tank.. Dx
My starter etc is super wet, all under carriage like oil pan trans pan very wet. Cooler exchange is wet too. None dripping, just wet. O2 is stuck or i would have swapped it already, i hope it's ok.

Next in the list is to trans pan service, trans filter, magnet and try fixing/cleaning solenoids because first gear is gone. Other wrong things i have a broken wire to a wheel sensor and abs light and im sure brakes are gonna make it about that far and right there i will likely be due an oil change too.

I would like to ground my fuel relays and run a softer fuse to protect my pump. I want to also to reground the ECM just in case.

For videos and trainings i have watched videos on any Chevy 305 tbi and especially C/K1500 videos because there is so many shared parts.

I am running no thermostat until CEL is clear. I just have a scissor jack from a Lexus according to the sticker and my major experience is working on 2stroke gas motor bicycles and more recently some 4cycle generators experience. I have lived in this 95 for 5 years now, has over 250k miles. Speedometer/tripometer used to be finicky, now they are totally out after i fixed this.

​​​​​​This is what I'm looking at, what I've done, and what my head looks like.

I'm doing all work myself and learning while i go.

What stuff have i missed, all things considered here?

It does run, i am not stopping working on it because of that, figured now is a good time to start a thread on my ride and put my findings back online into one spot as well as see what the community says.

 

The engine needs a 195' thermostat to operate properly.

The entire engine should be grounded, my 1991 had a strap off the right rear of the block which was quite obvious when the doghouse was removed. It ran to the frame.

When you buy a fuel pump buy an AC Delco or Delphi unit, spend a little more and they last much longer.

I like to reroute the fuel line to get the filter off the frame rail and the line out around the shock instead of under it. If it runs through any holes in the crossmembers they'll need bushings of some sort.


Is that list of numbers the codes currently stored in it? I would clear them and see which come back, then look each one up.