Moutalib

Ok so heres the deal. My Uncle got a 2006 Express Van which came witthe double din factory am/fm radio. He wanted me to pull it out and install a cd playerand subs. The setup would consist of a Dual am/fm/cd/mp3 player, a 1000 watt 2 channel bridgeable amp, an 1100 watt dual 12" bandpass box and a 1.5 Farad capacitor. Preparing to do the install i then became aware that MOST gm vehicles require a stupid converter box so i purchased this (SCOSCHE STEREO REPLACEMENT INTERFACE W/CHIME GMLAN2SR).Everythingseemed in order, so i ordered the dash kit and the antenna adapter. So i got everything and installed fairly easy and quickly.A week later uncle calls me says radio cut off.Im like omg, WHAT!!!!!!!. I then went over and looked at hisvan and the radio wouldnt power on. I then started lookin for a fuse panel. Uncle finally found it in the engine. The firstfuse said RDO ASSY or something like that, cant remember exactly. Butanyways it was a 15amp, i pulled it and it WASNT BLOWN!!! i put it back and the radio started WORKIN again. I was relieved. Couple days lateruncle calls and says same problem. Im like damn.I made another tripto look at the radio again, i kept pressin the POWER button and no juice.The radio has a removable face so i removed it and oddly enough thetheft deterant led isBLINKING. By this time iwas puzzled. How is the led blinking, wats the source of its power????and why is the radio not powering on??? I went in the hood swapped the fuse from a 15 to a 20amp and of coursethe radio powered up. I told my unclelets see wat happens. You guys shouldalready know wat happened. It stopped working. :-( I havent had time togo fix it and want to get more input from you guys before i fix it. Myoriginal plan was to go into thedash and test thered andyellow wire to see if they are hot. If the red isnt hot i was gonna run it totheswitched 12v cigarette lighter.Use that as my source instead cuz the current source is from the SCOSCHEHARNESS CHIMEthing. Not sure maybe that thing is bad? i bought the wrong one?

Info to knowis - the van only had 2 front speakers, 1 in each door.There was a loose harness for the left rear. I tested and it was AUDIO so that madethe3rd speaker hookup easy. there wasnt a 4th one so i ran a direct cable from back of radio. I would like to know, does anyone know if maybe this loose harness for the left rear is shortin the system? Should iunplug the current speaker and run another direct wire?

Finally,myuncles son in lawliked the system and said he wanted one too. He has another GM vehicle :-( a 2008 Tahoe LS(no bose or onstar) I want to know if thisvehicle would give me the same problems to hook up or would it be simpler? Cause ive installed many complete systems in cars and ive NEVERencounted this problem before. It kinda makes me look like i dont know wat im doin :-(

Any questions, ASK!!!! PLEASE!!!! im waiting on you guys feedback before i touch the radio again.

shawnvw

Bad interface module. When you pull the rdo fuse, you are pulling power from the module and resting it. The module provides 12 volt in accy as the factory does this through data. The module is not providing the 12V it needs to when the key it on. You can either go directly to the key switch,(you will lose the retained accessory power though) or order up a new module

Moutalib

ok thanx for the reply shawn. i have a question though. being as the module ranges from $20-$180, im kind of scared to buy another one and still get the same problem.so i would like to know, do you think its ok if i disconnect the radio from the red module wire and cap it and just hook it up to another switched 12v source? ie. one of the 12v cigarette lighter which isnt being used? you referred to me goin directly to the key switch and i gotta be real wit you, im no mechanic, dont know what that is or where it is, lol.either way i reallydont want to be cuttin no factory wires in a car. i just wanta simple solution so the radio keepsworking for my uncle. thanx

shawnvw

The red wire on the radio needs to be hooked up to accessory, not 12V constant, which is what the cig lighter is. If you do, it will not turn off.
Run a wire down to underneath the drivers side of the dash. There is a bulkhead connector there. there should be a big orange, and a big brown wire there. They will both test as accessory. I don't want you to cut any wires, but rather just cut back some insulation, install a 10amp fuse, then run the wire to the radio and you should be golden.

Moutalib

did exactly what you said bout 2 weeks ago, radio is still workin fine!!! appreciate all your help man, thank you

Yarik Marar

sorry for reviving this old thread but I have the same exact problem and when I took apart the aftermarket module/chime that stopped working after about a week, and found the connections on the electrical board fried. I added a picture. I tried soldering it, but it's a pain in the ***.
It looks like it's the 12 volt power connection wire that blew out from the board but the other connections look fine so my question is did you leave your module installed but ran an extra 12v power wire or did you cut all of the wires removed them module and hot-wired all of them without the harness..?

The module / chime


the flip side of the board another fried wire.

mountainmanjoe

The OP hasn't visited the forum in 12 years. Very unlikely you'll hear from him.

I'm not familiar how these aftermarket stereos are connected. If you can sketch out a rough diagram maybe I can help.

gwhopper1

Where is this module? I have the exact same problem.

funtwodrv

This module in our 2014 is just laying in the dash, behind the radio.