2014 GMC Savana, front HVAC Fan does not work.
#1
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2014 GMC Savana, front HVAC Fan does not work.
Winter is coming I have no Defrost, at least no Fan to blow the Defrost.
- Fuses are Good.
#2
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Hit it with a Hammer!
From the other thread, I was told to hit the blower motor with a Hammer and it worked. I have no idea exactly how to oil the bushings, but that makes sense. It was operating intermittently before it stopped completely. The bushings or the bearings probably have dried out. It sat on a lot for year before I bought it, then it sat again for another year before now. How do I oil the bushings properly?
I am going to remove it and attempt to oil front and back.
I am going to remove it and attempt to oil front and back.
Last edited by dberladyn; November 4th, 2018 at 7:37 PM.
#3
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Already rusting. I sprayed it thoroughly with JB80 through the drip hole. Then I put White Lithium Grease on the Armature.
White Lithium Grease on the rear bearing.
I am not sure what that white panel is for. Is it a door for Air Recirculation? It's very stiff. Doing this gave me an idea. A guy could put a sponge in the duct work here, run a tube to it from a fragrance jar, even going as far as adding a windshield washer pump and a button would be worth it. The vehicle would always smell good.
You can see the heater core here.
#4
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That White Lithium Grease is the best stuff I ever bought. I used that on everything that needs lubricant. It works great. The Cabin is going to Stink like Oil for a Long Time.
#5
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Location: Harrisonburg Virginia
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I don't know about the Express, but I had a 2000 Astro that the resistor was bullet proof. I never dug into why it was happening, but the connector at the resistor melted 2 times. I stopped it from melting by not using the fan on high.
#6
Do not use WD40 or any other kind of lube-in-can product. It will just drive out whatever oil is left.
Do not get lube on those copper commutator bars.
The bushing(s) will be pressed into the motor housing. There should be one the shaft output side, and maybe one on the back too. Find a way to dunk it in some thinner motor oil. It needs to be submerged for a while, and some heat wouldn't hurt. I can't give you a step by step, you'll have to get creative. The motor will definitely need to come out.
This may or may not be worth your trouble. A new one will be $30-$50.
Do not get lube on those copper commutator bars.
The bushing(s) will be pressed into the motor housing. There should be one the shaft output side, and maybe one on the back too. Find a way to dunk it in some thinner motor oil. It needs to be submerged for a while, and some heat wouldn't hurt. I can't give you a step by step, you'll have to get creative. The motor will definitely need to come out.
This may or may not be worth your trouble. A new one will be $30-$50.
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#8
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I had a feeling people would tell me such things. I am going to leave it. It's obviously an accessible, replaceable part for a reason. If I find the energy, maybe I'll take back out, take it apart, and boil it on oil on the stove for a night. Truthfully, with the rust and the fact it's already been a problem and the fact I have so many things to deal with, I just don't care. It has NOT stuttered since I have done this. If it dies before winter is through then... my bad, after that at this moment, I don't care. By Spring or Summer, if I half a brain I should find the desire to do something with it for a project.
Thanks for the knowledge, the corrections and the advice.
Thanks for the knowledge, the corrections and the advice.
Last edited by dberladyn; November 5th, 2018 at 11:34 PM.
#9
oil+stove+boiling+unattended sounds like a really bad idea. I just meant gently heat up the bushing and the oil before you dunk it in to help it soak. And keep it inside your heated house rather than outside.
Running the motor this way will burn out the speed control resistors and you will have a new problem on your hands.
Running the motor this way will burn out the speed control resistors and you will have a new problem on your hands.
#10
Re-oiling sintered bronze bushings.