I was given a 2000 Express 1500 conversion van that I am turning into a camper. I was told the a/c system had a leak and to just charge it up. After MANY cans, I finally had cold air coming out of the dash. I noticed I did not have much air flow or cold air out of the rear a/c. This van was converted by Anaheim Conversions. Rear a/c is on driver's side. Someone had attempted to repair the cracked casing by wrapping it in foil baking pans! Removed that and found the source of my leak. The rear a/c coil was green with Freon. After pricing them, I decided I will not replace it as I want a roof top a/c. Can I crush the a/c lines to blank off the leaking coil?

I then realized the heater coils were hot! I am sure this is not normal. . Does anyone know where they would be tying into the van's cooling system? Shouldn't there be a valve to turn off circulation to the rear unit when in a/c mode? Anaheim routed all four lines up through a hole in front of the rear, driver's side wheel well.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Factory lines run under the passenger door step, half way back cut across the van mid way, then up where you found them. The rubber mounts cause the aluminum to oxidize and the lines will leak. Heater valve is under the passenger step. Crimping the line will not stop the leak, The line are "T" ed by the front A.C./ heater core box. you should be able to eliminate the A.C. lines there.

I would repair the rear air and save the roof for something else.

 

the rear hvac has both a/c and heater core. the coolant will be between 80 and 100*C and this is normal.


the rear a/c lines must be cut and the lines capped off with a special a/c repair tool. crimping them off will not seal the system. Have them put the cap as far forward as possible...less chance of a leak if the cap is before all the lines that run to the rear. Your looking at 1hour labor charge to do this.

 

Thanks I will look under passenger side. One shop I took it to wouldn't touch rear a/c. They said removing it would "change the pressure in the system". Yeah, if you don't want to do something, say, "I am not comfortable doing this". Don't make stuff up.

 

Thanks. That is what I am hoping to do. First place would not touch it. I will have to find someone who has more knowledge than that shop. I was told it would "change the pressure in the system". I don't think compressors work that way.

 

after you chop off the rear lines....all that has to happen is the refrigerant level would have to be lowered to a front only system quantity. the underhood a/c label shows single and dual fill amounts.

 

I found what looks like a solenoid valve under passenger step. Is this an electric or vacuum operated. Any clues on how to test it? I am assuming it stuck in the open position. Front controls all seem to work and change air flow and temperature.