Driveline Vibration
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CF Active Member
Joined: Jul 2020
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Update:
I took it to the dealer because they have a Pico scope. The lead tech drove it and said there was definitely an abnormal noise/vibration and that he suspected the rear end. I scheduled a rear diff service so they could get it up in the air and check other things during the service. They called later and said that there was absolutely no backlash in the ring & pinion. It was clear that someone had messed with it at some point before I bought it as there was a retainer clip missing and non-factory silicone. Whoever messed with it had everything too tight and too close and there was alot of metal in the fluid. They suggested replacing the entire rear end with a used one as it would be cheaper than replacing the internals. They said this is likely the cause of the noise/vibration.
I don't know alot about the inner workings of the diff. I'm wondering if just having the ring and pinon replaced (at somewhere other than the dealer) or if everything else likely has been damaged by the circulating metal shavings.
I took it to the dealer because they have a Pico scope. The lead tech drove it and said there was definitely an abnormal noise/vibration and that he suspected the rear end. I scheduled a rear diff service so they could get it up in the air and check other things during the service. They called later and said that there was absolutely no backlash in the ring & pinion. It was clear that someone had messed with it at some point before I bought it as there was a retainer clip missing and non-factory silicone. Whoever messed with it had everything too tight and too close and there was alot of metal in the fluid. They suggested replacing the entire rear end with a used one as it would be cheaper than replacing the internals. They said this is likely the cause of the noise/vibration.
I don't know alot about the inner workings of the diff. I'm wondering if just having the ring and pinon replaced (at somewhere other than the dealer) or if everything else likely has been damaged by the circulating metal shavings.
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That sucks. It may sound like you can just change the guts, but in reality it takes a lot of labour. Everything needs to be set up perfectly to within thousandths of an inch. it can be very time consuming and few people have the skills to do it properly. If you don’t… well you just witnessed the results. It’s usually cheaper to just find a complete axle you can just plug and play.
Thread Starter
CF Active Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 182
Likes: 27
That sucks. It may sound like you can just change the guts, but in reality it takes a lot of labour. Everything needs to be set up perfectly to within thousandths of an inch. it can be very time consuming and few people have the skills to do it properly. If you don’t… well you just witnessed the results. It’s usually cheaper to just find a complete axle you can just plug and play.
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Wow that's a bummer. Yes junkyard replacement is likely best. Find one from where things don't rust. What rear end is in it? Might be a 10.5" 14 bolt full floater because you can adjust the backlash rather than using shims and someone who doesn't know could get it off when putting it back together. I did a 14BFF and it wasn't easy because of the high torque involved but the adjustments are simple to make other than pinion bearing preload. It took me 3 crush sleeves to get the pinion preload right. It's hard to tighten the pinion nut just a bit more when you are using a 6 foot cheater pipe!
Thread Starter
CF Active Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 182
Likes: 27
Wow that's a bummer. Yes junkyard replacement is likely best. Find one from where things don't rust. What rear end is in it? Might be a 10.5" 14 bolt full floater because you can adjust the backlash rather than using shims and someone who doesn't know could get it off when putting it back together. I did a 14BFF and it wasn't easy because of the high torque involved but the adjustments are simple to make other than pinion bearing preload. It took me 3 crush sleeves to get the pinion preload right. It's hard to tighten the pinion nut just a bit more when you are using a 6 foot cheater pipe!
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Eight lug, no hub sticking out.
Payload is 2945 lbs
From Chevrolet,
Specifications for 2015 2500/3500 passenger vans, under Chassis / Suspension
Rear;
Two-stage, semi-elliptic multi-leaf springs and semi-floating rear axle
https://media.chevrolet.com/media/us...2015.tab1.html
Last edited by og52; Mar 5, 2023 at 3:30 AM.