e-Brake - learning curve - adjustment
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 216
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From: Arlington, VA
e-Brake - learning curve - adjustment
Despite references to the Green Books manual, YouTube videos, thoughts, suggestions I think I have a way to adjust the e-brake without breaking the wheel down past the rotor or buying a special caliper.
My Intent:
The intent is to lock the drum brake against the rotor so the vehicle does not roll while sitting in Reverse or Drive gears to pass state inspection.
Leaning Curve:
1st I concluded the brake cable auto-adjuster at the pedal is only a cable release not an adjust of anything. So the cable pulls as far as the cable pulls until the actuator at the wheel presses the drum pad against the rotor as hard as the cable and actuator allow.
2ndly the only other adjustment beyond the cable is the spreader between the brake pads inside the rotor. There is a star wheel on the spreader that is accessible from the inside of the wheel under the vehicle through a small rectangular opening with rounded ends covered by a rubber plug.
- The star wheel spreads the drum brake pads when it is rotated away from the axle. So for the driver’s side location at the bottom of the wheel, the star wheel turns down and on the passenger side at the top of the wheel it rotates up.
E-brake pad thickness:
I do know that I had drum brake pads that were 1/8” thick 12k miles back. I believe they are still that thickness since the e-brake has been loose all this time. Not knowing the thickness of the drum brake pads adds an unknown I did not address.
Problem:
The problem is finding the correct adjustment so the drum e-brake does not rub the rotor when released.
Working idea:
By pressing on the e-brake pedal the cable pulls the drum brake actuator pushing the pads against the rotor. So I need to set the e-brake in a position where it engages the drum pads with the rotor with room to the floor to multiply force and room above when released to not be in contact with the rotor.
Method:
My first application of these conclusions was to set the e-brake pedal so it was 1” above the level of the driving brake pedal.
- From here I tightened the star wheel spreader a few notches at a time until I was physically unable to put enough force on the wheel to turn it.
- This turned out to not be enough to stop the vehicle from rolling.
My second attempt was to set the e-brake pedal so it was 1 1/2” (2x4) above the level of the driving brake pedal.
- This turned out to be just enough to hold the vehicle in place when in Reverse or Drive gears while on level ground.
NOTE: I took dimensions of the wheel drum brake actuators before and after. The Driver’s side did not change from 3 3/8” but the Passenger side increased from 3 1/8” to 3 1/4”. I have no explanation. Maybe the e-brake pads were that much out of being equally set.
Basics:
Working on almost level ground.
Chock front wheels
Jack wheel to be worked on.
- a jack stands for added security a good idea for when the wheel comes off
Put transmission into Neutral.
Tricks:
- The Driver’s side is relatively easy. The access hole is on the bottom and there is nothing but a jack in the way. For this side I literally put my shoulder to the wheel and grabbed an opening in the wheel and pushed/pulled as hard as I could.
-- The tools I used were a head lamp and 10” slot screw driver.
- The Passenger side was a pain. After much exercise, taking off the wheel turned out to be the only alternative to access the star wheel hole and test for ability to turn the rotor.
-- For this I needed a mirror to look back from over the rotor and see the access hole. None of my screw driver’s were the needed length to work between the back of the wheel and the suspension leaf spring. I took a 16 penny nail and ground a slot driver head where the point had been and this worked.
-- To test how tight the brake was I put a 14” pry bar under a lug and over the hub to lever the wheel.
Still To Be Checked:
After the next couple of drives I will check to see if there is a discernible difference in how hot, if at all, the wheels are with the thought the pads could be rubbing. But I think I hit the mark of cable length and pedal throw.
My Intent:
The intent is to lock the drum brake against the rotor so the vehicle does not roll while sitting in Reverse or Drive gears to pass state inspection.
Leaning Curve:
1st I concluded the brake cable auto-adjuster at the pedal is only a cable release not an adjust of anything. So the cable pulls as far as the cable pulls until the actuator at the wheel presses the drum pad against the rotor as hard as the cable and actuator allow.
2ndly the only other adjustment beyond the cable is the spreader between the brake pads inside the rotor. There is a star wheel on the spreader that is accessible from the inside of the wheel under the vehicle through a small rectangular opening with rounded ends covered by a rubber plug.
- The star wheel spreads the drum brake pads when it is rotated away from the axle. So for the driver’s side location at the bottom of the wheel, the star wheel turns down and on the passenger side at the top of the wheel it rotates up.
E-brake pad thickness:
I do know that I had drum brake pads that were 1/8” thick 12k miles back. I believe they are still that thickness since the e-brake has been loose all this time. Not knowing the thickness of the drum brake pads adds an unknown I did not address.
Problem:
The problem is finding the correct adjustment so the drum e-brake does not rub the rotor when released.
Working idea:
By pressing on the e-brake pedal the cable pulls the drum brake actuator pushing the pads against the rotor. So I need to set the e-brake in a position where it engages the drum pads with the rotor with room to the floor to multiply force and room above when released to not be in contact with the rotor.
Method:
My first application of these conclusions was to set the e-brake pedal so it was 1” above the level of the driving brake pedal.
- From here I tightened the star wheel spreader a few notches at a time until I was physically unable to put enough force on the wheel to turn it.
- This turned out to not be enough to stop the vehicle from rolling.
My second attempt was to set the e-brake pedal so it was 1 1/2” (2x4) above the level of the driving brake pedal.
- This turned out to be just enough to hold the vehicle in place when in Reverse or Drive gears while on level ground.
NOTE: I took dimensions of the wheel drum brake actuators before and after. The Driver’s side did not change from 3 3/8” but the Passenger side increased from 3 1/8” to 3 1/4”. I have no explanation. Maybe the e-brake pads were that much out of being equally set.
Basics:
Working on almost level ground.
Chock front wheels
Jack wheel to be worked on.
- a jack stands for added security a good idea for when the wheel comes off
Put transmission into Neutral.
Tricks:
- The Driver’s side is relatively easy. The access hole is on the bottom and there is nothing but a jack in the way. For this side I literally put my shoulder to the wheel and grabbed an opening in the wheel and pushed/pulled as hard as I could.
-- The tools I used were a head lamp and 10” slot screw driver.
- The Passenger side was a pain. After much exercise, taking off the wheel turned out to be the only alternative to access the star wheel hole and test for ability to turn the rotor.
-- For this I needed a mirror to look back from over the rotor and see the access hole. None of my screw driver’s were the needed length to work between the back of the wheel and the suspension leaf spring. I took a 16 penny nail and ground a slot driver head where the point had been and this worked.
-- To test how tight the brake was I put a 14” pry bar under a lug and over the hub to lever the wheel.
Still To Be Checked:
After the next couple of drives I will check to see if there is a discernible difference in how hot, if at all, the wheels are with the thought the pads could be rubbing. But I think I hit the mark of cable length and pedal throw.
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