Express, Savana & G-Series Vans Offered in both a full size van, or a large box truck, the Express is the modern GM workhorse.

Chevrolet Express
Platform: GMT Van

Mounting Amplifiers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old April 6th, 2019, 10:14 PM
  #1  
CF Pro Member
Thread Starter
 
dberladyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Coast
Posts: 898
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default Mounting Amplifiers

I change my mind so frequently. Realistically I do this because I am passing back and forth between the most I can do and the least. All dependent upon my time, energy, finances, situation and whatever. I keep expecting to invest time, energy and some money. For example by I expected to be done work, paid and have some money alot to moving some basics forwards. Instead, my time is getting burned up by who do now work to the same standard I do and consequently my days, time and expenses are just being wasted. I am pissed right now, but then I choose to work these because of situation so it's all a big circle that lands back on me, but not really on me because I didn't this, other losers who again do not work to my standards did this to me (government).

So onto my point here, because of the route I have taken. So many speakers all independently driven, I have to have a lot of amplifier channels. I am using just to drive the Front Left and Front Right Channels, not including subwoofers. So seeing that I am two channels short, I am temporarily using an over sized spare amplifier that sits loosely on the floor between the seats. Right now there are two four channels on Craigslist for reasonable prices. One's that match my existing four channel amplifier, my preferred setup. When I have money I am probably going to try buy one of these. Formerly, I had a deal at a sound shop to literally buy the best this manufacturer makes, several components I had wanted, including these amplifiers for even. It was like 25% retail price brand, several thousand worth of stuff and I backed out because... even though I had the money, I just could not get myself to part with it. I do not regret that, but I'll probably never cut a deal like that again. It was literally too good of pricing to turn. I cannot even find this stuff used for so cheap.

Anyways, at some point soon I will have some time and a little bit of money that I am willing to part with. I realise that we all drive vans and this might seem completely ridiculous, but I have wanted to maximise every inch of space, because realistically, we do not have space to mount and hide things. We do not do not. I could argue there is more room a small car to mount things out the way than there is in our vans that are at least twice the size if not more. There's just no place unless you are willing to eat up cargo area which I am not. This van could already be bigger once everything is piled in. My preferred amps are relatively small, they do not take a lot of space, but when you hook up the wires and allow for heat transfer, that small foot print gets eaten up fast. There isn't really room under the seats unless I redesigned the cases for ease of making adjustments which I am not going to do. Just another reason, why I wish there was no adjustments. Why I wish these components were made even simpler.

I tried removing the Onstar and XM Radio because there is a lot of room right there. I could almost mount the amplifiers, or I could have mounted a processor or even a possible computer (replacing the radio). My BCM does not like to see the Onstar and the XM removed, so back they went. Without GM Reprogramming they have to stay which ticks me off. I have been thinking of pulling the dash again. I recall that there was a ton of space on the top piece of grey plastic near the windshield. My only problem would be adjustments and possible heavy guage power routing. I am not big on pulling the dash as sooner or later I will break something. I already scratched my bezel from having it in and out over a dozen times. What a terrible design. That thing should be cut in at least two pieces. I have almost done it myself. Just cut a nice line through it. Make it two pieces and figure out a way to hold them together when it is assembled. What a pain in the **** to get in the dash, limited tools which is nice, but that piece is just too big.

Other ideas that I have had are the doors. I could lose a storage pocket and mount an amplifier in each door which isn't really a bad idea. However, once again, it is power routing. Do I really want 4 guage wire in the door jamb continually under the stresses of moving on every door open and close? No. Absolutely not. Besides. Cargo space. Those pockets are handy I wish I had more. Cleaners, rags, trailering equipment, estimating books, garbage bags for work, gloves, my door pocket are completely full and organised.

Ok... there is the console idea which is what I was planning on. Shove the amps in there. That works, just have to manage the heat of the amps, and the heat from the HVAC as well as making it all quicky demountable so that a mechanic can undo 4 guage power cable and all the signal wire without pissing him off before he even gets to the doghouse. Not to mention losing more cargo space and likely an excellent for a subwoofer.

Bingo Bango. Why not?

Why not follow through with a hair brained idea of some time ago. I might have four or five amps if I ever finish. All need very heavy power cable directly to dedicated batteries which are now going to be mounted on the frame. Why not build a box, even out of plywood wrapped in a water membrane and mount it to the rails OUTSIDE of the Interior? I lose NO Cargo Space. I save money on Heavy Gauge Wire. I might even get easy access to making changes and adjustments via the settings. Why not mount the Audio Amplifiers OUTSIDE? There is moisture, damp air and direct water, but a sealed box takes care of that. There is extreme heat underneath as well as extreme cold. That is the biggest problem. In Summer, with the truck running on black pavement that is sitting in the Sun all day... it's going to be HOT. How do deal with that? How to deal with the Cold in the winter? Freeway speeds? In some cases, it is great for cooling amplifiers.. but... I am wondering if watercooling, fancooling, or a servo operated ventalation door with be worth it? I know it's a lot of work, but that's the fun of it sometimes. If it was the ONLY project, it would be a fun project to work out and keep as simple as possble.

Any thoughts on mounting amplifiers OUTSIDE under the carbody?

Old April 7th, 2019, 12:34 AM
  #2  
CF Veteran
 
canucklehead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

I have a kenwood 5 channel amp under my passenger seat. Its 2 ohm stable so you can run an extra set of speakers if you have to, like the rear doors and sound bar on the rear channels, and the front door speakers on the front channels. Worth the expense to conserve space.
Old April 7th, 2019, 1:34 AM
  #3  
CF Pro Member
Thread Starter
 
dberladyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Coast
Posts: 898
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

You're not providing the answer I am looking for. I am not looking for one five channel amp mounted under my passenger seat, when I need six channels just for left and right, another one or two channels for subwoofer(s), another two channels for rear if I install them, and another channel for center which I might install to improve the dialogue of youtube videos. The topic here of my concern is installing amplifiers OUTSIDE and UNDER the vehicle to conserve space and simplify access while reducing heavy gauge wiring (which is good for the system to get as close to the batteries as possible).

As listed that is eleven(11) channels, you provided an non-viable solution of five(5) channels.

Last edited by dberladyn; April 7th, 2019 at 1:37 AM.
Old April 7th, 2019, 2:34 AM
  #4  
Super Moderator
 
mountainmanjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,207
Received 677 Likes on 613 Posts
Default

It sounds like a bad idea to me. Power electronics need airflow, but outside it would have to be sealed from the elements. The amp would have to be built like an ECM.

There is quite a bit of space under the passenger seat. Maybe you could put at least one unit there. Or what about .. the back of seats? Too crazy?

There's also lots of room between the ribs of the body. But I think you insulated your walls didn't you. Maybe you could sacrifice some.

What about the cavities inside the back doors?
Old April 7th, 2019, 4:31 PM
  #5  
CF Pro Member
Thread Starter
 
dberladyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Coast
Posts: 898
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

I meant to take my dash apart today. I am not in the best frame of mind. Today is the kind of day I just go ahead and do things, then I break things. I woke up on the wrong side of the bed. You would not believe my Facebook posts today. I am literally asking to be shot.

The back doors are an interesting idea. Those are the only panels that I have not yet removed. I've planned for three years to insulate there. Again, four gauge wire in a moving door jam seems like a bad idea. I want as much cargo/storage space as possible. I also want access for adjustments, maintenance, changes. I think underneath is the most practical solution. I might change my mind when I look, but what really would be wrong with a plywood box wrapped in blueskin? I had a whole roll of here at one time, before the police got involved and destroyed over $5000 of materials intended for the van (they didn't do this directly, it was the result of their wrecklessness of the situation). It could be vented with a simple servo controlled flap. $25 for a servo. $15 for an arduino board and thermostat. Simple - if I didn't make things too complicated, or if I actually had inner peace to create and build. I think I am going to continue exploring and planning for underneath. I am thinking ahead of the batteries, on the drivers side, under the driver. Left wheel splash, short cable run, exhaust is on the other side (heat).
Old April 7th, 2019, 4:54 PM
  #6  
CF Veteran
 
canucklehead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

a 5 channel 2 ohm stable amp is capable of driving double the speakers, so that 8 speakers left and right, and 2 subs. (if you get one with enough wattage)

If you are running a centre channel that would reduce you to 7 as the front left end right would bridge a centre.... https://www.termpro.com/articles/images/image12.gif (unless you are going the DSP route.)

There is enough vertical room under the passenger seat for more than one amp. You could install a piece of plywood, and have an amp on top and one on the underside.

Another possible amp location is in the cavity by the jack. I doubt you can install one outside the vehicle, and the engine compartment is too hot.

You mention the route you have taken you need lots of channels, but I don't what you mean. How many speakers and what type? You can use a crossover to connect larger and smaller speakers to a single channel and just have the smaller ones do the higher frequencies......like a component set......and reduce the number or powered channels you need.

Last edited by canucklehead; April 7th, 2019 at 4:58 PM.
Old April 7th, 2019, 5:08 PM
  #7  
CF Pro Member
Thread Starter
 
dberladyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: West Coast
Posts: 898
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Sorry, your reply has nothing to do with solutions I am looking for. Forget this thread. I want to explore one route and no one wants to go that route with me. Please stop asking me to explain what I do not want to explain. I have written enough above.

Last edited by dberladyn; April 7th, 2019 at 5:10 PM.
Old April 7th, 2019, 5:21 PM
  #8  
Super Moderator
 
mountainmanjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,207
Received 677 Likes on 613 Posts
Default

Facebook is unhealthy. You should quit

Originally Posted by dberladyn
four gauge wire in a moving door jam seems like a bad idea.
It's not the best. But the wiring boot on the back doors is much longer than the front doors, and the angle isn't as tight, so less stress. Welding cable is ideal for this. It has a much higher strand count making it more flexible, and it has nice and thick insulation so it can take more abuse puts less stress on the conductors.

Originally Posted by dberladyn
what really would be wrong with a plywood box wrapped in blueskin?
It will get too hot inside. A power amp needs constant air flow or it'll die fast.

Originally Posted by dberladyn
a simple servo controlled flap...
Way too much work.

Just my $0.02




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 3:15 AM.