cjm1973

I'm in the final stages of buying a new Savana 3500 extended wheelbase (12 passenger seating) for the purpose of towing my 35ft 7600# GVWR travel trailer. TW is just over 1000 lbs and will be using a very expensive Hensley WDH. The van I'm interested in is equipped with the towing package and G80 locker.

We've got some long distant cross country trips planned with the family over the next few years and need the room for our 3 children and dog. Having 2 rows behind the front seats is a huge advantage over the 1 bench seat in the back of the truck. I would remove the back row in the van and use that rear space for the kids bicycles and other camping necessities.

My concern is the van's towing characteristics and the performance of the 6.0L in the mountains. As these vans do not come with a factory brake controller, I would have to install an aftermarket Prodigy on the dash.

I'm looking for opinions on how it tows compared to a more conventional 3/4 ton pickup (coming out of a RAM 6.4 Hemi 2500). Anything I should be aware of before taking the big leap?

Thanks in advance.

SteveROntario

I found out that using the tow/haul button in the mountains doesn't disengage overdrive with the 2004 3500. I smoked a set of front brakes in Jasper as a result. The front end shakes very violently when the rotors warp, so violent that you can't hold on to the steering wheel when trying to stop from speed. We had to stop the trip until the van was repaired but at least the parts are commonly available everywhere.

I think you will want a van with a 4.10 rear-end, have a look at the manuals for towing capacity.

cjm1973

4.10 gearing is not possible from the factory in these HD vans, at least for the current model year. I think the 6.0L Vortec goes away for 2020 in the van light up. The six speed is light years ahead from the old 4 speed that's in the 04's. I think that's why the trucks and vans tow better. I had an old Buick that had warped rotors once shaking violently when any amount of brake pressure was applied. Horrible feeling. My trailer has oversized axles and oversized brakes for its weight class and stops very easily without assistance from the TV. I was told the newer vans have larger brakes.

I have friends who have the 6.0L/6 speed combo in both 23/4 ton truck and 2500 Suburban form. They say there vehicles work well towing their respective trailers. I don't know anyone that has a van with the same powertrain and wanted some insight on its capabilities. Based on the payload, GVWR, and GCVWR of the van, we'll be way under the maximums with our 7600# trailer.

GatorHawk24

cjm1973

I use my van with a VERY similar set-up. 2016 extended express 3500, 6.0L with 6 spd and 3.73 rear end (I don't think there's an option unless you buy aftermarket), which I use to tow a 35', 7500+ lbs travel trailer with about 850-900 lbs on the hitch. I have not towed in western US mountains, but I've done a little in the eastern US. While towing up big hills/mountains, I expect you will slow down, or make the engine scream, or both... but the van should do the job quite well. Like you, I was concerned about the tow package and the G80 locker, but the used van I bought has neither. If I were buying new, I'd probably get both, but I wouldn't worry too much about either. The tow package only adds a hitch and a 7pin plug at the back of the van, all other "towing" equipment is standard. You can add the "tow package" within a couple hours in your driveway (here's a list of items https://chevroletforum.com/forum/exp...erience-94571/). The G80 is more difficult to source aftermarket and LS or locker rear ends get pricey. However, I haven't been in a situation where I needed it... yet...

I am a HUGE fan of the Redarc TowPro Elite brake controller (https://redarcelectronics.com/produc...ake-controller). It's not hard to install, works well, and you can install it to look factory. You can see my install here: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/exp...s-92134/page2/ or in the pictures on my profile page. Additionally, the 6.0L uses engine braking to help out (basically it will auto-shift to attempt to slow/maintain the vehicle speed down hills).

The factory tow ratings limit hitch weight to 1000 lbs (at least for 2016), and the van will squat as you approach that much weight. Even with our weight distribution hitch (Equal-i-zer 10k, https://www.equalizerhitch.com/), when I add weight at the rear of the van I get a little squat. Something I've considered to correct this is the Roadmaster Active Suspension (https://activesuspension.com/). I would avoid airbag systems with WD hitches because it can become a constant battle back and forth between airbag pressure and WD settings (and airbags will fail at the worst possible time...been there, done that... which makes a passive approach like the RAS much more appealing to me).

Another consideration is that the factory transmission cooler is a little insufficient. I towed our camper from AL to NY in October and never saw tempts get above 195 (outside temps mostly around 60-70); however, this summer (outside temps in the 90s) the transmission is regularly in the 220s while towing. I'm looking into options now to get those temps back under 200.

Overall, I've been really happy towing with our van (knowing it has some limitations).

cjm1973

Thanks for the insight. As with any of the big three HD gassers, they all rev to maintain power to the rear wheels. Even my current 6.4 Hemi needs to be high in the RPM band during ascents while towing. The engines are made for it. Fords changing the game next year with a low revving 7.3, 475 ft lbs of torque pushrod monster that will have 400 ft lbs available at only 1500 RPMs. Should be interesting to see.

I'm already considering swapping out the hitch for a class V curt. It will only cost me $180 and I won't be at the upper range of a the OEM class IV. Had good luck with my Prodigy P3 in an older Yukon Denali so I might as well go that route again. The P3 has boast settings that helps different driving behavior, ie freeway vs stop and go. I do like that. It also has a digital read out of the settings, another positive. The small form factor of the Redarc is nice though.

I'm eyeing a set of Air Lift 5000's as I've got friends who use them on their trucks with confidence. Leveling with the bags is supposed to happen after the WDH is properly set. My Yukon had a full air suspension on the rear and worked like a charm with several WDHs. I had to sell it as I needed more payload. My Ram 2500 squats some too when loaded up but the unloaded positive rake usually settles it relatively level. Was thinking of adding bags but just never got around to it. I've seen the roadmaster product before. In reality, I think the bags will do a better job of keeper her level.

I'm hoping I won't have to add an additional trans cooler to the front of the radiator like I did with my Yukon. Not hard to install an aftermarket cooler, but don't really want to mess with splicing the transmission lines. We have two long road trips in August that will test the van's capabilities. I"m supposed to take delivery next week. The van is 7 hours away so it's going to be a long trip back home to Michigan. It was the only van I could find that had everything I needed...a sliding side door (easier for the kids, less damage to other parked cars), the G80 locker, the tow package, rear bumper assists, blind spot avoidance, frontal collision and lane departure tech, a 6.5" Nav touch screen infotainment unit, and heated outside mirrors/rear defogger. It also has 6 way power seats for both driver and passenger. Would have liked the bigger battery or an isolated 2nd battery but I think I can upgrade those items later on my own. I also wish it had an optioned 220 amp alternator. Another upgrade I may do later.

I'm glad you like your van. I'm hoping that the van impresses me. Haven't drove one yet. Looked at a couple of beat up, rental units for sale in my area. Never knew that 20K miles can be so destructive on a van when used in a rental fleet. The room to move around the cabin is one of the biggest reasons we're going forward with this.

Was wondering if you have floor liners on the interior carpet? Husky nor Weathertech make anything for these big passenger vans. I probably can get away with universal slush mats up front. Was thinking about buying a one-piece garage floor rubber liner and trimming to size for all the carpeting behind the front seats. Can't source a rubber mat big enough to fit that space. Thought about stall mats, durable they are, but they have a very pungent rubber smell. I've always been very particular with the care of my trucks interior. We're giving up a 7 year minivan that has carpeting like factory new. Sure helps with resale.

GatorHawk24

With a WD hitch, the rear sag will be minimal. I recommend getting your set-up complete, and see for yourself before you choose any suspension augmentation. We've towed our trailer about 8000 miles over the last year with stock springs and a WD hitch, and I am in no rush to change anything. Something to be aware of is that the stock shocks are junk. They'll be ok for a couple years, but if you start to feel increased bounce or sway, just replace them (it's an easy DIY job). I replaced mine in 2018, on a 2016 Express. There are a few other threads that talk about options. KYB and Ridetech seem to be the most popular with this forum (I went with the KYB Gas-a-just, and I'm happy with them).

I'm not an expert, but from what I understand, 220 degrees for xmsn fluid is not the end of the world. However, even though GM says the the stock system will tow up to the maximum ratings for it's respective configuration, I don't like it, and I want it cooler. Slower highway speeds (55mph) definitely help keep the temp down, compared to freeway speeds (70mph) and hills.

Since I bought my van used, my expectations to maintain a pristine interior are likely significantly lower than yours (since you'll be starting new). My solution was to buy cheap carpet runners at Walmart (4 at about $6 each) and lay them down in each row with one lengthwise at the entry. Where I live, I'm more concerned with sand and damp shoes from rain. If I lived in a snowy climate or if mud was an issue, I'd probably look for more robust floor protection.

cjm1973

KYB has a rebate offering on shocks now when purchasing 4. I'll go that route as it'll end up costing about $135. Bilsteins are more then I want to spend considering the shocks coming are off are brand new. The wife scratches her head on that one.

I'm in no hurry either to add air bags or trans cooler. If I can take delivery on Friday (that's the plan), our first camping trip is on Monday. My precious RAM 2500 will sit in our garage while the van gets the action. Will keep an eye on the squat and trans temps during the 700 mile trip, tape measure and torque app in hand. Cant wait to experience the cabin space with the kids.

For a protectant floor covering, I'll check at our big box hardware stores and see if I can buy something by the foot off a roll. GM has van specific front mats that cost an arm and a leg. I'm leaning towards a universal set for now.

The other mod I may make (sooner than later) is a tire upgrade. Haven't heard many good things about the stock Bridgestones. As we live in snow country, I would like a more aggressive, all-season tire. 245/75/16s have plenty of options. I'm leaning towards Michelin LTX A/T 2s. Any idea if the OEM wheel can support a larger tire on the stock suspension, maybe 255/265?

GatorHawk24

Your stock shocks should get you at least a year or two of use, just know that several folks on this forum have had to replace theirs in 2-3 years.

I think you'll appreciate the ability to "move about the cabin" on long road trips. I'm not sure about the ages of your kiddos, but my wife really appreciates the ability to stay in the vehicle to help unbuckle kids when the weather is hot/cold/rainy/etc. Speaking of kids... I think I recall reading in another thread that you are getting a slider rear door. I agree with your sentiments about the lack of a power door option and the benefit of not dinging your van or someone's vehicle as the kids throw the rear doors open. We have a slider, and much prefer it to the swing-out doors for a few reasons in addition to those mentioned; however, the door is HEAVY. It's not hard to move for adults and older kids, but little ones might not be able to do it by themselves (close it securely or open it from outside). This problem is worse if you are parked facing down hill (whereas uphill could result in the door "slamming" open when an inattentive child pulls the lever without the awareness that he/she needs to hold on to control the door's rate of movement). Also, the "lock" in the open position is friction based and not a physical latch. We've found that it's good enough for almost every situation we've been in, but the door could dislodge and slide forward on its own when the nose is down-slope. I'm making a big deal out of relatively minor issues to bring awareness to potential dangers. A little oversight while you get used to the van will do a lot for your family's safety.

As for tire options. My environment has not forced me to upgrade the tires, and I plan to wear the tread down significantly before I replace them (but again, no ice/snow where I live in southern AL). Be sure to measure your clearance between the body/wheels and the slider before making changes. There isn't much clearance. Too wide of a tire, the addition of fender flares, or new wheels with the wrong offset could put you in a bind (literally).

SteveROntario

Better read the break-in procedure in the manual.

cjm1973

Yep, have read it before. This is from the owners manual of a 2018 Chevy Express.