Rusty break lines
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CF Beginner
Joined: Mar 2023
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Rusty break lines
Ok here's my question I have a 2005 Silverado 1500 and I just found a crack in the line that's under the driver side. The lines are rusty as hell and I have to replace them myself should I just replace the section or the whole line? Should I just do the 1 or do them all?
Last edited by hlaplante851; Mar 1, 2023 at 10:42 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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replacing them all is the best bet as they will burst elsewhere. behind the tank is a common rust spot.
if you depress the brake pedal slightly with a pry bar....and keep it depressed....it closes off the ports in the master. This prevents the master from draining....any you won't have to bleed the master cylinder. just pull the brake light fuse to prevent battery drain.
if you depress the brake pedal slightly with a pry bar....and keep it depressed....it closes off the ports in the master. This prevents the master from draining....any you won't have to bleed the master cylinder. just pull the brake light fuse to prevent battery drain.
CF Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 465
Likes: 93
In the past it was a NO-NO to splice in any part of a hydraulic brake line.
There are some new products out there that can make the job of replacing hydraulic brake lines a lot easier, but you might need some special tools to do the job.
All flares must be double flare, unless they are bubble flare.
If you don't have the right tools to do the job , you might be able to rent them or consider having a good shop handle it.
Now you have some idea where the lines rust the most , be especially vigilant at the clamping brackets because that is where the road salt stays and does it's nasty work.
When inspecting the lines , where they look OK can be sometimes misleading because you cannot see the entire line unless you remove it from the anchor brackets.
All line nuts should be metric. There is nice flexible steel line available to do a decent job, can be easily formed to look neat and produce a lasting job.
There are some new products out there that can make the job of replacing hydraulic brake lines a lot easier, but you might need some special tools to do the job.
All flares must be double flare, unless they are bubble flare.
If you don't have the right tools to do the job , you might be able to rent them or consider having a good shop handle it.
Now you have some idea where the lines rust the most , be especially vigilant at the clamping brackets because that is where the road salt stays and does it's nasty work.
When inspecting the lines , where they look OK can be sometimes misleading because you cannot see the entire line unless you remove it from the anchor brackets.
All line nuts should be metric. There is nice flexible steel line available to do a decent job, can be easily formed to look neat and produce a lasting job.
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