Hi all!
Bought my first american car.
I gave charging issues. While car is idling, I have not 14V.

replaced alternator 2 times, and concluded it was probably a bad alt., so I orderd a third one and waiting for it.
Checked fuses and connections.
I have 12V in the small wire to the Alt.

I have good connections to ground and positive.

Any way! I have only "LOW COOLANT" Red Lamp in dashboard before turning the ignition on. I beleive I ought to have more. (For example, the "BAD BATTERY" lamp)?

Waiting for new alternator. I think I got TWO remanufactured from mexico in a row that was disfunctional.

How to I fix the dash-lamp issues? Dash background light is also very dim. Thanks beforehand. Please let me know if I am ignorant or arrogant. I have searched the webs for days, but can't find satisfying answers

 

Update:
*A mechanic said my "bad battery" lamp may be non-existent as long as I have a voltmeter gauge.
*3rd alternator is now in place, still no current being made with engine on.
-Alternator connector is 4 pin, whereas 3 small and 1 bigger.
-Car has 4-hole plug connector, but only one wire.
This wire may be in wrong place. Going to try to change this today.

 

Update 31-01.2025:
-Tried to rearrange the alternator & car connector. My connector says "P L F S"
Where my car's plug had only 1 wire going to it, that'd be "F".
I modified my contact plug so that the wiring became similar to picture I added here:

-I have tried connecting only "F" (How my car was when I got it)

-I have tried both "F" and "S to BAT+" (as pic shows)

-I have tried "L and S to BAT+".

After what I could find on the webs and my personal network of people I know, the difference between "L"and "F" would be if your car has an indicator lamp OR a voltmeter gauge. I have a gauge and appears to be no battery dash lamp, so I assume that'd be right the car only had this one plug.

 

Do anyone know if a 6,2D 1991 G20 have some kind of external device in addition to relay, alternator, battery?
What could possibly be wrong?
It really seems impossible for me now.
My car is in an awkward place which I really want to get out of. And this frustrating hellish phenomenal tricksterism of a problem should be supposed to be this hard to solve. I can't know if my alternators (at nr. 3 now) were all bad or all good.

I know that charging isn't supposed to be very advanced.
-You got brand new battery
-Alternator spinning great, I can feel magnetism from it
-The alt connector plug has 12V into the regulator inside the alternator, gives power when I turn the car on. So I know key switch works.
-I measure 0,0-0,3 Ohms from BAT+ to ALT+, and the same goes from BAT- to GROUND CASE ALT.

Is there an external device that needs to work?

 

The 90's GMT400 type instrument clusters, if its like the one on my pickup truck, are removable, and on the back side there are socketed bulbs for all of the indicator and warning lights, as well as illumination of the various gauges.

Last year my 1996 C1500 had 17 out of 19 bulbs burned out, including ALL the warning lights, turn signal indicators, etc. I had to buy two different size Sylvania bulbs, but was able to replace all 19, and now my check engine light is on (it was burned out before, haha)...

 

thank you very much for your reply.

So I can disassemble the instrument cluster and overhaul the bulbs. I definitely will do that.

But will that affect my physical issues, such as no charging while running?

 

I have tried 3 "new" remanufactured alternators, and they all seem to be unfunctional. They spin, they have a magnetic field I can know by holding iron in front while spinning, they have current in the GM PLFS pig tail plug. NO POWER OUTPUT whatsoever. They don't ****ing work like they should. I have never spent so many hours in a cold, dark, **** spot to fix a car as with this. AND THE CAR ISN'T EVEN FIXED!
Everybody knows how an alt. is usually an easy and quick fix. Not this time! The physical job is one thing. But the fact that the amazingly terrible diarrhea **** alts don't even put out power after that, is another.
I can't understand why I don't hear or see more complains about these reman. alts online.

Anyways, this dead thread will remain without solutions. But if you have the same problem as me, HERE'S MY TIP!:
*You should stay away from reman. alternators for this type. They REALLY ****ed me over bad. You either buy a brand new one, a used one that you KNOW works, or even install an alt from another car. I am planning on using an Audi alt now. Just gotta modify. So that's how this ****hole went.

 

No - this won't help that. I only have knowledge of the instrument cluster issue you described. Not charging while running is more likely an alternator or wiring issue.

 

SOLVED!

Who could've known...

The belt was too lose.
I would have never guessed, as it were firm, tight and had a lot of speed. No response when bringing up throttle.
But it was it. Impressive. I am very relieved and at ease. I thank the greater good powers.

 

Wow! Glad you found a resolution. I know vans are harder to work on that the average vehicle, so I guess you had trouble seeing the alternator and didn't notice it was not spinning. That will for sure make a difference!