2007 suburban LT - swaying like a boat
July 17th, 2019, 1:47 PM
#1
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
2007 suburban LT - swaying like a boat
2007 Suburban 1500LT, 160k... original suspension with bad air shocks and Check Suspension warning for the last 30k. Recently I have noticed a few spots along wonderful i95 in CT causing my truck to sway more then the norm... too much more then to let it just be ignored. So this is at high speeds only and when hitting the 4 pm Friday paving areas (got to be sarcastic to survive other peoples crappy work)... other wise it travels smooth and stable.
So all sway bars are snug and links are intact, no excessive play in the wheels when lifted and tested. Yes its an old suspension but nothing is broken... so my main question is if its bushings only or my spring when dead from not having shock support from the suspension error for the last 30k?
I was thinking of replacing the rear with LTZ shocks and spring and bypassing the fronts with proper resistors to fake out the computer.... good idea or not in this case?
Also curious on the "suspension" error... does it shut down the electronic functions of the front shocks when in this error mode?
thanks,
Ron
So all sway bars are snug and links are intact, no excessive play in the wheels when lifted and tested. Yes its an old suspension but nothing is broken... so my main question is if its bushings only or my spring when dead from not having shock support from the suspension error for the last 30k?
I was thinking of replacing the rear with LTZ shocks and spring and bypassing the fronts with proper resistors to fake out the computer.... good idea or not in this case?
Also curious on the "suspension" error... does it shut down the electronic functions of the front shocks when in this error mode?
thanks,
Ron
Last edited by 94burb; July 17th, 2019 at 3:01 PM.
July 17th, 2019, 3:12 PM
#2
The suspension error could be any number of things. You'd need to get the codes from the module to know what's up there. I'm sure your springs are fine. The shocks and struts still function like a regular absorber even if not hooked up. You just don't have the computer providing additional dampening of the ride.
My 2007 LTZ used to have a very loose steering and frond end feel. Everything seemed good and tight but I went ahead and replaced the upper control arm, ball joints and bushings in the lower control arms. After that, it was nice and tight. No more loose and drifting.front end.
I've had blown rear air bags in mine for an extended period of time and it still drove fine. I currently have Arnott air adjustable absorbers in the rear and standard Arnott struts in the front. The original front struts were leaking and I don't think they were doing much due to all the fluid loss. They had 290,000 miles on them and were original to the car. The ride is much smoother now with the Arnott struts but they made no difference in how the truck drives otherwise.
If it was me, I'd do the upper control arms (Ball joints aren't replaceable in them), bushings on the lowers and new ball joint on the lowers. They are inexpensive to DIY. Shouldn't need an alignment after unless you already had an alignment performed while the parts were already excessively worn.
Also check your tie rod ends. If they need to be replaced, an alignment will likely be needed as it's next to impossible to get them installed at the same length as the original.
My 2007 LTZ used to have a very loose steering and frond end feel. Everything seemed good and tight but I went ahead and replaced the upper control arm, ball joints and bushings in the lower control arms. After that, it was nice and tight. No more loose and drifting.front end.
I've had blown rear air bags in mine for an extended period of time and it still drove fine. I currently have Arnott air adjustable absorbers in the rear and standard Arnott struts in the front. The original front struts were leaking and I don't think they were doing much due to all the fluid loss. They had 290,000 miles on them and were original to the car. The ride is much smoother now with the Arnott struts but they made no difference in how the truck drives otherwise.
If it was me, I'd do the upper control arms (Ball joints aren't replaceable in them), bushings on the lowers and new ball joint on the lowers. They are inexpensive to DIY. Shouldn't need an alignment after unless you already had an alignment performed while the parts were already excessively worn.
Also check your tie rod ends. If they need to be replaced, an alignment will likely be needed as it's next to impossible to get them installed at the same length as the original.
August 7th, 2019, 8:46 AM
#3
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update....tires were off by 8lbs from left to right in the front and criss-crossed in the back with approx 8lbs as well... so that was taken care of immediately. The rocking was still present but not as bad so I replace the the rear OEM air-shocks with a set of 5100 Bilsteins and a matching pair of stronger springs (stock springs are matched to the oem air-shocks). This stabilized the truck incredibly and improved the over all suspension of the truck. This was done 1st because it was an easier job to do and it also needed to be done. Once I was happy with the Bilsteins, I went ahead and installed them in the front as well... new upper arm w/ball joint, new lower arm ball joint. Results... tight suspension and steering, handles much more responsively and the bumps in the road are muffled into the shocks giving me a more snug/quite ride. No extra bounce over speed bumps also... used to dip more on heavy stops and give a mushy rebound with a few softer recoil bounces but nothing crazy. Now there is no bounce other then the main 1st one. As far as rocking... I need to go for another long drive before I can say anything more but just the rears being done did feel as if it was holding the rocking steady so I am sure that with the fronts done it will feel even better.
Now the one thing I cant understand is the skip... turning at highway speeds around a bend and you hit a bump, the truck skips over with a twitch in the steering. For a split second the tires are off the ground and the weight of the motion forces the truck over just enough to get that jerk and full body shift. How can that be resolved or lessened?
Now the one thing I cant understand is the skip... turning at highway speeds around a bend and you hit a bump, the truck skips over with a twitch in the steering. For a split second the tires are off the ground and the weight of the motion forces the truck over just enough to get that jerk and full body shift. How can that be resolved or lessened?