JPCaveman

I just bought a 2005 Tahoe LT 4x with 160k miles. Code P0752 no second gear. I pulled the pan and it's pretty clean. After checking the solenoids and the wiring I finally found the problem was a broken band. I'd really like to just replace the band. Is there something that typically causes it to break or is it just something that happens? I don't want to pull it out twice but I don't want to replace everything just because it's used. My 99 Yukon has almost 300k and still works fine.

Jay Dee

You might find it at this link: https://www.s10forum.com/threads/4l6...utions.297698/

Jay Dee

Here is the breakdown of the 4 speed. https://images.app.goo.gl/SMdmCEzmVHFYF8T6A

JPCaveman

I'm hoping I never have to see mine looking like that but thanks.

Jay Dee

Here is a good article that has a link to refreshing your model Transmission.https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ace-bands.html
I rebuilt a C-6 Ford 3 speed using a do it yourself video, bought a book on it, and studied upgrades having never rebuilt an Automatic before, although had done a few standard transmissions. Watched plenty of you tube tear downs and rebuilds too.
It says in the article that chances are if the band is trashed, theres more that needs freshened up, and in my opinion after doing one myself , they are each with their own specific tricks that you can study on you tube regarding tear downs and how to spot problems, then how to strengthen them by upgrading to more planetaries and the band for the best choice for your vehicles use.( stock / hi performance)
I assume someone sells a do it yourself video, and you'll need some special spring compressing tools etc . But if you like puzzles, as I do, tearing one down and rebuilding it is not only educational, but then you can buy all the upgrades to save you a bundle, and understand how they work. Mine took me 2 months in my back yard covering it to keep rain out ( no garage), but I suggest replacing your torque converter, pump, sprague, all frictions and steels, necessary springs, servo, bushings, and anything that shows wear, and if you want to go for more pinions for strength, its no problem. But if you are not mechanically inclined, you might just save up and buy a completely new remanufactured transmission with the upgrades and just R&R it. Personally where I live the locals wanted to fleece me to the tune of 3 to 4000, and I nixed that baloney. I did it myself for around 900 to 1200, but added a shift kit, upgrades, same as the monster transmission, including more pinions (3 to 4 but could have gone higher if I were building a race transmission). Even added an aftermarket external 10 micron filter and a more powerful magnet for in the pan. A temp gauge, and another cooler as heat is your transmissions enemy.
its your call, but if its your vehicle you care about, I think it deserves TLC. If you have someone rebuild it, they only replaces certain parts , and won't last like a completely rebuilt from a transmission remanufacturer with all new guts.
My transmission runs like a top now, and LOOKS like its brand new. I am glad I rebuilt it, as I know what I've got. It's your decision,but remember good fair priced transmission shops are hard to find, and are out to get suckers. Do your homework, don't give up and be a sucker. If you buy a junk yard transmission, its a crap shoot, as to if you'll get a good one, or crap and be in the same boat again.

hanky

There is a difference between a rebuilt and a remanufactred trans.
A rebuilt only gets what was seen as problematic and what appears OK to reuse gets reused.It comes with a limited warranty.

A remanufactured trans comes with all the latest modifications , new parts and a much better warranty. It may cost more , but is always worth the addl cost ,
if you can afford it.

Jay Dee

Exactly, well clarified , as remanufactured all new transmissions can be purchased online from a reputible company with a good track record of quality products, then shipped, that have good warranties.( research feedback)
Most average local schlock rebuilders charge as much as a remanufactured unit, and have a failure rate that can tie up your vehicle for mistakes they make when one gets bolo'd, as many are built by feel, and not by using feeler gauges, then you get less value as you cant pick your frictions, or band, and even though a torque converter + old pump can be reused, why would you want to, when they are relatively inexpensive and hold dirty metallic crap inside. It's all about the benjamins, as most consumers know zilch about transmissions and are easy to hoodwink. They tried it on mine telling me parts were hard to get for a C6, which is total hooey. Right there they lost credibility completely.
A new harbor freight transmission jack is worth buying if you just want to do an R&R, OR a rebuild it yourself.
I found the nylon bushing on the transmission linkage below, could not be removed easily and reused, but using common sense, I decided when reinstalling the new one, to heat it up some water , then stuck the new replacement round nylon bushing in, prior to installing for a few minutes (after removing the old one using a propane torch just to soften it a little). Then popped the new one on easily ,and when it cooled , it was then stiff like the old one. This makes the job easy, but It was an 85 ford E350, and I'm not sure how your vehicle is set up, or if yours uses one on yours, but I would guess it would. Some might even have 2.
Advice to the doubting thomases out there is : The trick with any transmission , even the supposed lifetime versions , are best to have the fluids changed about every 35,000 miles. And NEVER FLUSH ONE.
Just like your engine, IF you want longevity, read up on how to do a fluid change on the lifetime versions if that is your kind, and for those with pans you can change fluid, filter, and clean the magnets in the pan,but, when you do so, you are only changing half the fluid of your transmissions capacity, so after you do it, drive it for 6 months then do it again. If your transmission pan has a drain plug and is a newer transmission, you won't need to change the new replaced filter if you just did it , but on an old transmission , I think it best to replace the filter again, and the screen if it has one.
It's the best insurance you can get for taking care of the most neglected part of every vehicle,.....the transmission.

JPCaveman

When I opened it up it had very little wear on the clutches. I put a new band in it, a filter, and a front seal. Last time I pulled a transmission out of a 4x was in the 80's. I've got some sore muscles but it's done and working fine. This time instead of wrestling the transfer case I made a very solid support on a wheel dolly and just rolled it back as far as I could. It only gave me about 3" but that was plenty.

Jay Dee

Well it sounds like you did good. Even using a harbor freight trans jack it's putting it back that seemed the hardest to me,. If you haven't studied your model transmission, I understand why you might not have replaced any frictions or steels, but regarding bands, there are lots to choose from, but a quality stock band is a lot of rebuilders preference.
I actually enjoyed rebuilding my C6 ford, as it is only a 3 speed, but the exterior case was filthy, and It was a coupke weeks just cleaning and grinding off oxidation to prep it.
With transmissions with 4 or 5 speeds, it is more time consuming to go through + there are new tools that make putting the clutch pack seals in easier using a series of plastic cones and sprays that freeze the seals in order to shrink them to just drop in, then when thawed, they expand to fit bores with no damage.
I am the type that when something is apart, I just can't resist to go through it to freshen it up while its open. But I also can't blame you for not. The down time is stressful and in my case as I said before, I added additional frictions and steels to my clutch packs w/ torrington upgrades instead of stock bushings. I even thought up some ideas to improve a stock rebuild if I had wanted to have a company make upgraded parts nobody makes.
AND as you age, it isn't easier to fix your own vehicle, Ache isn't the word for it. So change your fluids regularly don't loan it out, or hot rod it, and it should last a few more hundred thousand miles.
A neighbor of mine recently was working on his ex girlfriends 98 Tahoe and after loking into its foibles, it impessed me as being a problematic vehicle from the get go in many regards. You'd think Chevy would eliminate poor designs to be better vehicles to compete more seriously with foreign auto makers like Toyota, but....they don't. Good job ,+ I hope it doesn't need anything more but servicing every 35,000 miles.

Jay Dee

I think I would have replaced the shifter case seal just for good measure if I were you ,as that failing was the origin of my C6s demise over time, but if it doesn't, keep an eye on that . But I think on most, they can be replaced without removing the unit.
if anybody has any transmission leaking there it pays to put in a new seal. The huge baked on oil leak, thick on the case was testament to how long it leaked with its previous owner.