4L60E Repair or Rebuild?
October 25th, 2021, 11:30 AM
#21
T
If you watch the video, it could be the 3rd and 4th actuator that works the 3rd and fourth clutch , if its sloppy inside. He shows where to check after he removes it. Just stuff I noticed in watching this interesting video, but would have used a plastic tipped machinist hammer instead of a steel sledge on the pump face. It's ok on the screwdriver though, as I was taught to not hit metal hammers on metal in machinist school. Let me just say, I am NOT a professional transmission repair guy, I am NOT even a mechanic, but AM an Auto enthusiast who has lots of decades of fixing autos in order to know what I've got from 40's models to present day crapola, after getting burned by all kinds of flim flam mechanics who told me when I was young that I was too stupid to be able to fix cars. After that, I never looked back, and began fixing everything on a car myself . My motto : I AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. Never be afraid to learn or try, but study up on whatever you are going to fix prior to touching it. Nuff said.
October 25th, 2021, 1:58 PM
#22
In a nutshell....
According to consumer comments in the link I provided, most say, it takes a brief period of time, so again I suggest taking time to always read consumer comments on all parts and products+ sellers ratings, prior to purchasing anything Auto related. In cases where there are definite signs of irreversible damage to a transmission IE: dark fluid that stinks (smells burned), or any bits of metal in the pan as big as a grain of rice, there is NO additive that can repair worn metal parts , nor burned frictions.
It seems In your case, it sounds iike it may have a chance it might not be as serious, so order some hot shot , follow directions, possibly stop driving it till you get the product, and maybe even change the fluid again even though you just did it, prior to using the stiction eliminator.. don't be cheap.
One of the things I learned is most people do NOT take as good of care of the most important part of their vehicle in changing THEIR TRANSMISSION fluids, even in types they claim are lifetime no oil change type transmissions. Changing fluids ( and I mean using the best correct type) is paramount to keeping your vehicle dependable and happy. Don't abuse it, or let your kid drive it without you with them.
Doing it yourself is cost effective, ( cost effective: means it pays for itself). Not paying jiffy lube who use crap fluids, nor WalMart Auto centers, is always the best advice. I even added an extra trans filter to my vehicle, and coolers are just as important since heat is your transmissions primary enemy.
Don't be afraid to read up on your model transmission, as education is the counter punch to detecting shylocks in the business who can smell blood like sharks, to rake you over the coals. Besides they expect to have A percentage of failure rates . Stay away from Cottman, Aamco, and big chains, but try to find a local who knows his stuff who works for a shop who does good work, but moonlights on the side, and although it might take longer, ,you can watch and learn , if they are an honest person. In my case, there weren't' any I could find, so I elected that it was time I learned about automatics to build one myself. For me , it was something I studied closely, and educational.
Previous suggestions to my comments are spot on, as seals and parts have a right and wrong way for installing. ( I chose blue goo for my assembling) since I did mine in winter, the green is for hotter season work. I took lots of photos and videos to document how things came apart , even made my own spring compressor for 5.00 and other than that, in my case , I only needed common tools,brake cleaner, feeler gauges, and access to parts in order to make upgrades from stock to make mine stronger and be within the correct tolerances in thousandths . I also ground off or deburred sharp casting pieces on and inside the case ,that could cut you while assembling , and painted the case with 1500 degree primer I baked on using a small torch, then followed up using 500 degree silver paint the same way prior to assembling. Looked just like a factory new tranny when it was completed. Ran like a top from the beginning. Adding a shift kit, made it so I could shift it at will to RPMS when climbing as it is in a motorhome . Sorry about getting long winded, but, felt some might find it interesting food for thought .
It seems In your case, it sounds iike it may have a chance it might not be as serious, so order some hot shot , follow directions, possibly stop driving it till you get the product, and maybe even change the fluid again even though you just did it, prior to using the stiction eliminator.. don't be cheap.
One of the things I learned is most people do NOT take as good of care of the most important part of their vehicle in changing THEIR TRANSMISSION fluids, even in types they claim are lifetime no oil change type transmissions. Changing fluids ( and I mean using the best correct type) is paramount to keeping your vehicle dependable and happy. Don't abuse it, or let your kid drive it without you with them.
Doing it yourself is cost effective, ( cost effective: means it pays for itself). Not paying jiffy lube who use crap fluids, nor WalMart Auto centers, is always the best advice. I even added an extra trans filter to my vehicle, and coolers are just as important since heat is your transmissions primary enemy.
Don't be afraid to read up on your model transmission, as education is the counter punch to detecting shylocks in the business who can smell blood like sharks, to rake you over the coals. Besides they expect to have A percentage of failure rates . Stay away from Cottman, Aamco, and big chains, but try to find a local who knows his stuff who works for a shop who does good work, but moonlights on the side, and although it might take longer, ,you can watch and learn , if they are an honest person. In my case, there weren't' any I could find, so I elected that it was time I learned about automatics to build one myself. For me , it was something I studied closely, and educational.
Previous suggestions to my comments are spot on, as seals and parts have a right and wrong way for installing. ( I chose blue goo for my assembling) since I did mine in winter, the green is for hotter season work. I took lots of photos and videos to document how things came apart , even made my own spring compressor for 5.00 and other than that, in my case , I only needed common tools,brake cleaner, feeler gauges, and access to parts in order to make upgrades from stock to make mine stronger and be within the correct tolerances in thousandths . I also ground off or deburred sharp casting pieces on and inside the case ,that could cut you while assembling , and painted the case with 1500 degree primer I baked on using a small torch, then followed up using 500 degree silver paint the same way prior to assembling. Looked just like a factory new tranny when it was completed. Ran like a top from the beginning. Adding a shift kit, made it so I could shift it at will to RPMS when climbing as it is in a motorhome . Sorry about getting long winded, but, felt some might find it interesting food for thought .
October 25th, 2021, 2:43 PM
#23
Oil suggestion, just my preferance. ( some may not agree)
I highly suggest REDLINE OIL COMPANY PRODUCTS for newer vehicles, BUT I AM NOT ASSOCIATED WITH THEM IN ANY WAY.
USING THE CORRECT OILS PREVENTS DESTROYING syncro's in standard transmissions, and in rear ends has the special limited slip additives saving paying 10.00 extra to purchase separately. You just go to their website enter your specific vehicle make and model, pick the type oil you want, then it will show the correct type to order. They refine the oils themselves competing at the top companies like amsoil and toyota , which are also good.
check it out: https://www.redlineoil.com/
I help disabled people LOCALLY at no labor charge , ( only parts) who cant afford a mechanic , but insist they purchase only the correct oils , if it requires a specific type, but for engines, if it's an older car, then I use the correct type Castrol GTX, OR Valvoline from WalMart to get the best price. I only use good oil filters, not cheap crap. ( specifically WIX, or a wix manufactured napa gold) if you have doubts, just watch the You Tube video of them cutting open oil filters to see how they are made, then decide for yourself what you want to use in your ride.. right oils keep a vehicle happy.
USING THE CORRECT OILS PREVENTS DESTROYING syncro's in standard transmissions, and in rear ends has the special limited slip additives saving paying 10.00 extra to purchase separately. You just go to their website enter your specific vehicle make and model, pick the type oil you want, then it will show the correct type to order. They refine the oils themselves competing at the top companies like amsoil and toyota , which are also good.
check it out: https://www.redlineoil.com/
I help disabled people LOCALLY at no labor charge , ( only parts) who cant afford a mechanic , but insist they purchase only the correct oils , if it requires a specific type, but for engines, if it's an older car, then I use the correct type Castrol GTX, OR Valvoline from WalMart to get the best price. I only use good oil filters, not cheap crap. ( specifically WIX, or a wix manufactured napa gold) if you have doubts, just watch the You Tube video of them cutting open oil filters to see how they are made, then decide for yourself what you want to use in your ride.. right oils keep a vehicle happy.
November 25th, 2021, 12:36 PM
#24
I just popped back in to point out the company that makes stiction eliminators has different types for different applications. Be sure to read up on all products you try to be sure it is for your transmission, and not for the engine. Got to thinking about it the other day, felt it worth mentioning again, and apologise if it seems redundant. Here is the one for transmissions, but in new transmissions, I don't feel any need to use stuff like that till it vehicle has some time to varnish up inside. After a rebuild , as clean as I got mine, , I feel additives in general are for older vehicles, but its the choice of the user to decide how and what to use when, as only the products manufacturer can advise on that. If a transmission has leaked for a long time without repairing the source or has brown fluid, it usually means you are at a point that additives just might not help,so change your fluid more often than not, + maintain it regularly.
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