4L60E Repair or Rebuild?
October 13th, 2021, 2:42 AM
#11
Putting it back in was much easier because I took my time finding the right balance and angle on the way out. I used a large floor jack with the handle sticking straight out under the front bumper. A platform made of a 2"x12" about the size of the pan and a piece of 3/4" on top of that sat on the jack. In between the 2 pieces of wood was a piece of 1"x 4" so that the plywood was higher at the front and the right angle to match the pan. I screwed them together so I wouldn't have any surprises. It took a little time to find the right balance front to rear but I had it supported so I could adjust the jack until I got it right. After that it was fine. I work by myself but I use lots of blocks and I make a few tools as I go along.
Service the transmission? I just did. Should be good for another 200,000.
Service the transmission? I just did. Should be good for another 200,000.
October 13th, 2021, 4:44 AM
#12
Those are some great ideas for the next time, IF I do another.
I did my R+ R in a field on grass. Couldn't find a place with concrete, and had to shove 2 foot of snow off the while lot prior to driving it on the spot. When removing the C6 they are a tall transmission, and vehicle had to be jacked up with a floor jack in the front AFTER removing...even then it wouldnt come out from under, so I dug down in the dirt to get clearance. Oh well, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
It was on an angle uphill to reinstall, so I think it weighed somewhere shy of 175lbs. I live where you can't work on cars ,so had to find a place elsewhere.
I pulled it 17 miles with a 4" wide tow strap (I found lying by the road on my way to buy a tow strap. )to the place then started it up and drove it up the angled incline and stopped it.
when I took it out , I trasported it to my back yard, and when I opened it up, the first 3 pinion Fwd planetary fell apart ( gears split lengthwise in pieces). From there it was all downhill. The throttle body was so full of metal, that I had to kept sloshing it in a pan of mineral spirits using a magnet to pull out the metal and filtering the rest to reuse about 30 times to remove aluminum. That took me several hours before I took that TB apart to put in the shift kit.( I PULLED A BASEBALL SIZE ball of shavings out of that pan).
I took some videos through the job, and it was actually a pretty enjoyable project, did it in the winter time as weather permitted. Got the flu for 2 months in Jan. To March when I started,BUT ,installed it in June. Ran like a top from the start.
My brother had a friend in the transmission business, his advice was to not try to do it yourself and leave it to professionals, he said, because it entailed a lot of details. I never told him I did it myself, but don't be fooled fellows, It aint rocket science and with an instructional video, books and watching a lot of You Tube tear downs and rebuilds of that model, I made 0 mistakes and approached it positively, like you did on your band replacement, only I studied the monster transmission rebuild too, and upgraded on my first rebuild to copy their exact upgrade on the first go..
My advice to others: If you have mechanical skills, believe you can do it, and do your homework, there's NOTHING you can't do, even if you never did it before. You only have fear to fear, I just looked at it like it's a puzzle, and follow directions. Always wanted to do one, now I can build any model if I wanted to. Just have to study up on the model I planned to rebuild , and learn it's particular models tricks as each ones design and things you need to do to avoid problems are slightly different but principles are the same.
Those exploded view PICTURE sites online, like I sent you are important to reference on reassembly.
I did my R+ R in a field on grass. Couldn't find a place with concrete, and had to shove 2 foot of snow off the while lot prior to driving it on the spot. When removing the C6 they are a tall transmission, and vehicle had to be jacked up with a floor jack in the front AFTER removing...even then it wouldnt come out from under, so I dug down in the dirt to get clearance. Oh well, you gotta do what ya gotta do.
It was on an angle uphill to reinstall, so I think it weighed somewhere shy of 175lbs. I live where you can't work on cars ,so had to find a place elsewhere.
I pulled it 17 miles with a 4" wide tow strap (I found lying by the road on my way to buy a tow strap. )to the place then started it up and drove it up the angled incline and stopped it.
when I took it out , I trasported it to my back yard, and when I opened it up, the first 3 pinion Fwd planetary fell apart ( gears split lengthwise in pieces). From there it was all downhill. The throttle body was so full of metal, that I had to kept sloshing it in a pan of mineral spirits using a magnet to pull out the metal and filtering the rest to reuse about 30 times to remove aluminum. That took me several hours before I took that TB apart to put in the shift kit.( I PULLED A BASEBALL SIZE ball of shavings out of that pan).
I took some videos through the job, and it was actually a pretty enjoyable project, did it in the winter time as weather permitted. Got the flu for 2 months in Jan. To March when I started,BUT ,installed it in June. Ran like a top from the start.
My brother had a friend in the transmission business, his advice was to not try to do it yourself and leave it to professionals, he said, because it entailed a lot of details. I never told him I did it myself, but don't be fooled fellows, It aint rocket science and with an instructional video, books and watching a lot of You Tube tear downs and rebuilds of that model, I made 0 mistakes and approached it positively, like you did on your band replacement, only I studied the monster transmission rebuild too, and upgraded on my first rebuild to copy their exact upgrade on the first go..
My advice to others: If you have mechanical skills, believe you can do it, and do your homework, there's NOTHING you can't do, even if you never did it before. You only have fear to fear, I just looked at it like it's a puzzle, and follow directions. Always wanted to do one, now I can build any model if I wanted to. Just have to study up on the model I planned to rebuild , and learn it's particular models tricks as each ones design and things you need to do to avoid problems are slightly different but principles are the same.
Those exploded view PICTURE sites online, like I sent you are important to reference on reassembly.
The following users liked this post:
JPCaveman (October 13th, 2021)
October 24th, 2021, 10:42 AM
#14
03 cadillac escalade
I'm trying to figure out what could cause my 4l60e transmission to act up like it is. I have 1st and 2nd and sometimes 3rd but after a couple seconds in 3rd it acts like it's in neutral so I have to put it in 2nd manually. I have dropped the pan and there were no chunks in there and barely any fine material so I put a additive in it with new filter and gasket plus new ATF. Father was a mechanic but lives elsewhere and he said that it sounds like the sprag is out but I'm lost on why it goes into 3rd for a couple seconds and then out. And it hasn't thrown any codes. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
October 24th, 2021, 1:23 PM
#15
It might be your throttle body or a sensor . Not sure how the sprag could be related unless bearings were loose or some parts that were plastic got too hot.
I think you might review the parts expanded view posted and search you tube or a general search Re: the specific problem. I know if a piston seal is put in backwards or gets old and leaks in a clutch pack, it won't seal properly on a shift. But if it was working fine then isn't , I use manuals that relate specifically to the model and search the troubleshooting section under symptoms. Maybe someone here can check who has that modern of a book.
Transmission shop repair manuals will tell you more than a shop, AS IN MY EXPERIENCE , they always say they don't know, and to bring it in to have them tear it down when they suspect what it is, as ignorance is how they make their bread and butter.
I think you might review the parts expanded view posted and search you tube or a general search Re: the specific problem. I know if a piston seal is put in backwards or gets old and leaks in a clutch pack, it won't seal properly on a shift. But if it was working fine then isn't , I use manuals that relate specifically to the model and search the troubleshooting section under symptoms. Maybe someone here can check who has that modern of a book.
Transmission shop repair manuals will tell you more than a shop, AS IN MY EXPERIENCE , they always say they don't know, and to bring it in to have them tear it down when they suspect what it is, as ignorance is how they make their bread and butter.
The following users liked this post:
Shanenyhus (October 24th, 2021)
October 24th, 2021, 1:35 PM
#16
Just a suggestion.
Here is a good product you might want to try. It's a stiction eliminator which means it removes gunk and varnish ( they now call STICTION)
IF IT WERE MINE I might change the fluid ( but DO NOT FLUSH), which is really only half the total Capacity, and add this to see if things change. It might not be anything but dirty inside the throttle body etc. Might be good to add a shift kit to it yourself later if it's not serious, if you have mechanic skills, but definitely try this first.
IF IT WERE MINE I might change the fluid ( but DO NOT FLUSH), which is really only half the total Capacity, and add this to see if things change. It might not be anything but dirty inside the throttle body etc. Might be good to add a shift kit to it yourself later if it's not serious, if you have mechanic skills, but definitely try this first.
The following users liked this post:
Shanenyhus (October 24th, 2021)
October 24th, 2021, 2:24 PM
#17
Here is a good product you might want to try. It's a stiction eliminator which means it removes gunk and varnish ( they now call STICTION)
IF IT WERE MINE I might change the fluid ( but DO NOT FLUSH), which is really only half the total Capacity, and add this to see if things change. It might not be anything but dirty inside the throttle body etc. Might be good to add a shift kit to it yourself later if it's not serious, if you have mechanic skills, but definitely try this first.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Shots-Sec...95715062&psc=1
IF IT WERE MINE I might change the fluid ( but DO NOT FLUSH), which is really only half the total Capacity, and add this to see if things change. It might not be anything but dirty inside the throttle body etc. Might be good to add a shift kit to it yourself later if it's not serious, if you have mechanic skills, but definitely try this first.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Shots-Sec...95715062&psc=1
Last edited by Shanenyhus; October 24th, 2021 at 2:27 PM.
October 24th, 2021, 11:36 PM
#18
T
Think I found what it might just be. Isn't a senser, nor sprague.
watch intently and get a book on it if you have to repair it if the addative doesn't do the job, my guess is, it might, read the feedback of customers of the stiction eliminator, as I think its the same as the shift restorer as those folks make a decent product.
Here is your same transmission that has the same problem, but much worse as to me yours is not this far along yet. Watch this guys video, and he makes it pretty simple to see how this model works. I watched it through and it made me want to rebuild one, as its pretty cut and dried. His problem was in the pistons of which there are 2 in the 3rd and fourth clutch pack. The stiction eliminator just might work on yours, as this one got too hot and overheated the steels and started to burn the frictions.
heres the video:
I found it to be hardst to remove the pump, but feel confident I'm on the right track. Try the product I suggested first as its not expensive, but he gives rips on how to firm up your shifts ro make your frictions last longer. So I hope this inspires you to not be afraid of this transmission.
watch intently and get a book on it if you have to repair it if the addative doesn't do the job, my guess is, it might, read the feedback of customers of the stiction eliminator, as I think its the same as the shift restorer as those folks make a decent product.
Here is your same transmission that has the same problem, but much worse as to me yours is not this far along yet. Watch this guys video, and he makes it pretty simple to see how this model works. I watched it through and it made me want to rebuild one, as its pretty cut and dried. His problem was in the pistons of which there are 2 in the 3rd and fourth clutch pack. The stiction eliminator just might work on yours, as this one got too hot and overheated the steels and started to burn the frictions.
heres the video:
October 25th, 2021, 12:02 AM
#19
If you watch the video, it could be the 3rd and 4th actuator that works the 3rd and fourth clutch , if its sloppy inside. He shows where to check after he removes it. Just stuff I noticed in watching this interesting video, but would have used a plastic tipped machinist hammer instead of a steel sledge on the pump face. It's ok on the screwdriver though, as I was taught to not hit metal hammers on metal in machinist school. Let me just say, I am NOT a professional transmission repair guy, I am NOT even a mechanic, but AM an Auto enthusiast who has lots of decades of fixing autos in order to know what I've got from 40's models to present day crapola, after getting burned by all kinds of flim flam mechanics who told me when I was young that I was too stupid to be able to fix cars. After that, I never looked back, and began fixing everything on a car myself . My motto : I AINT ROCKET SCIENCE. Never be afraid to learn or try, but study up on whatever you are going to fix prior to touching it. Nuff said.
October 25th, 2021, 7:01 AM
#20
Have attended GM training classes for various auto trans and redone several trans. You are mostly right, learn all you can be careful , keep a clean and organized work area and don't be afraid to invest in a few needed tools. Some folks take photos , I prefer to lay out the parts as removed.
Unless you learn what to look for doing an inspection , you could wind up reinstalling faulty parts.
It's not rocket science, but you could wind up on the moon if you for example install a one way clutch backwards.Seal installers and clutch spring compressors are required if you are going to do a complete job
.If you like doing detailed work , have a decent work area, good information, tools and are particular , chances are you will make out OK. This type work is not for everyone.
Unless you learn what to look for doing an inspection , you could wind up reinstalling faulty parts.
It's not rocket science, but you could wind up on the moon if you for example install a one way clutch backwards.Seal installers and clutch spring compressors are required if you are going to do a complete job
.If you like doing detailed work , have a decent work area, good information, tools and are particular , chances are you will make out OK. This type work is not for everyone.