A/C Blowing Cool But Not Cold
#21
CF Monarch
after every shop put out $6000 for new 1234yf ac machines(yf=yourf'ed if you have this refrigerant) the industry decided if was no better and went back to r134a.
yf at $1000 per 10lb tank, much more difficult to find leaks compared to r134a and much slower to fill due to the new machines doing leak testing procedures for every fill..it was a fail.
yf at $1000 per 10lb tank, much more difficult to find leaks compared to r134a and much slower to fill due to the new machines doing leak testing procedures for every fill..it was a fail.
#22
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
I agree, I find it annoying a lot the things the auto industry does, or has to do. I especially hate it when it replaces something that already worked, for minimal "improvement". I also dislike all the new tech, screens and other stuff, but that is a different subject. (Funny I dislike it so much, because I am in high school and I am supposed to be part of the next generation of car buyers who is supposed to like this stuff!)
#23
CF Monarch
I agree, I find it annoying a lot the things the auto industry does, or has to do. I especially hate it when it replaces something that already worked, for minimal "improvement". I also dislike all the new tech, screens and other stuff, but that is a different subject. (Funny I dislike it so much, because I am in high school and I am supposed to be part of the next generation of car buyers who is supposed to like this stuff!)
"Old-school" vehicle stuff wasn't so bad. I can recall buying R-12 for .69 cents a can, but if it really did contribute to degrading the ozone layer, then I suppose it's oaky that we switched to R134A. Right now my 2015 Malibu electrical trunk lid won't close properly and it had a habit of opening up a minute or two after driving it, so I'd pull-over and close it.
Now, the damn thing won't stay closed until I use the "open" button on my key-fob, and there is no key-hole, just a black rubber button to help open it. Now I have to put a new trunk lid lock on it, so I am out $30 dollars, but it's really been a good vehicle other then that issue. With the 2.5-liter non-turbocharged motor putting out 196 horsepower, she'll do over 40 MPG at 65-70 MPH, and at a county road speed of 55 MPH, she'll do 50 MPG plus, so I can't complain about engine performance at all.
Even without a turbocharger, she'll haul-*** when I need her to do so.
Chevrolet decided to only use the 1.5 and 2.0-liter turbocharged motors on the 2016 to 2000 model Chevrolet Malibu's, which was a mistake if you ask me. I don't want a turbocharger on a light vehicle at all, as they are nothing but trouble waiting to happen, but with all the eco-laws, I guess that they had to discontinue a great 2.5 L non-turbo motor on the light cars they build now. The 2.5 L is still available on the Colorado light pickup, but that's about it since they no longer manufacture the Chevy Impala
#24
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
@oilcanhenry I do prefer none turbo-charged vehicles myself. To me it adds undue stress to these engines to get that extra bit of MPG. What I really hate is auto-start stop, from what I hear its not only annoying, but if memory suits me, it is something like 80% or 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. So I don't know what these manufactures are doing slapping it on what seems like everything. I do wonder how much of it is forced on them though in an effort to be environmentally conscious, or if they are doing it to each other and they have to do it to keep up, because at the end of the day, MPG and tow ratings seem to be the only thing people think about in trucks now, besides how many buttons and cameras does it have. Side note, who in the hell needs a 10 speed trans in a pickup? My truck has a 4 speed and I would be happy as a clam to have just one more speed, not 6 more!
#25
CF Monarch
@oilcanhenry I do prefer none turbo-charged vehicles myself. To me it adds undue stress to these engines to get that extra bit of MPG. What I really hate is auto-start stop, from what I hear its not only annoying, but if memory suits me, it is something like 80% or 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. So I don't know what these manufactures are doing slapping it on what seems like everything. I do wonder how much of it is forced on them though in an effort to be environmentally conscious, or if they are doing it to each other and they have to do it to keep up, because at the end of the day, MPG and tow ratings seem to be the only thing people think about in trucks now, besides how many buttons and cameras does it have. Side note, who in the hell needs a 10 speed trans in a pickup? My truck has a 4 speed and I would be happy as a clam to have just one more speed, not 6 more!
1. At the last second, you pull up on the brake pedal a bit. This works 90 percent of the time.
2. Put the transmission into neutral as you stop.
3. Put the transmission into manual mode.
The Malibu has the six-speed automatic and I don't think more speeds would increase much of anything. It has an internal filter, so no way to change it when doing a fluid change.
Yeah as a commercial driver I am used to large diesel engine turbochargers, but on a car or pickup, I don't see any need for one. They add weight to the vehicle, and they can leak oil into the motor, as well as heat the engine oil up, requiring sooner oil changes.
#26
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
Okay, back on the subject of A/C. Had a real scorcher in Utah today, easily 95. I have not checked my system with a professional gauge yet but today the A/C struggled to get down to 55. Should I go rent a gauge or should I just take it to a shop? I ask because as previously stated I have checked the system multiple times with a gauge that goes on just the low side, but nothing pro. This makes me wonder if I have a problem on the, what i am going to call High Pressure side. Is that correct?
#27
CF Monarch
Okay, back on the subject of A/C. Had a real scorcher in Utah today, easily 95. I have not checked my system with a professional gauge yet but today the A/C struggled to get down to 55. Should I go rent a gauge or should I just take it to a shop? I ask because as previously stated I have checked the system multiple times with a gauge that goes on just the low side, but nothing pro. This makes me wonder if I have a problem on the, what i am going to call High Pressure side. Is that correct?
the best way to go. As tech2 said, you ought to have 45 F coming out the center vent. 55 F is simply too high.
#30
CF Monarch